Kiwi_Roy

Yes the wheel bearing. One went on my EV, part of the cage was hanging out. Surprisingly the bike was quite happy to continue on for another 60 odd miles until I came to a bike shop that had a bearing, by that time there were 6 balls and no cage. You could drive the bearing out with a screwdriver and a rock but I think it would be good to travel a bit further to some kind of shop. Although the bearings are a common one it's always hard to find them on a weekend,

Without the airbox you might find a flat spot, it really needs the velocity stacks. As a temporary fix I used the existing rubber intake and fastened the pods to that. One other thing, you can re-route the main loom without disconnecting. It normally tucks around the seat release lock, I removed it from there and it now runs along the frame to the front of seat with the extra length just folded under the tank in-case one day I want to put it back to stock. I also installed my regulator under the seat in the space previously occupied. I too would like a pair of nice aluminium velocity stacks.

It's not important to reach 14.2, your 13.7 is good enough and probably easier on the battery. I can tell you how to increase the charge Voltage but need to know more about your existing wiring. Headlamp size? Do you have headlight relays? OEM regulator? Sent you a PM Roy

The GPS only uses a few milliamps, I tied my outlet into the park light, that's on when the key is On. I broke open the case and just have the circuit board taped up floating in the headlight bucket. An alternative would be a 12V USB adapter, that would allow you to charge other USB devices, it would need to be waterproof though. Docc asked if there's a better way to reference the Voltage regulator. Lately I have been suggesting to run it off relay 4 / 87 contact. that's pretty much direct from the battery, this will give a slightly lower charge Voltage but you can compensate for that with a series resistance. A 100 Ohm trim-pot would let you adjust the Voltage Note: I haven't tried this on my bike because I have an after-market regulator. If anyone wants to try this send me a PM with an e-mail address I can send a sketch to, I can't use photobucket from here.

Ssshhh, I have been trying to convince Roberto in Caracas that his ECU is upside-down, He has an intermittent fault that cuts back on when he moves the wires at the plug. My theory is pressure from the seat has caused the circuit board to crack. The previous owner spliced a different plug onto the loom. Roy

I also like Trevini's solution to re-use the charge light. Tap into the wire between Relay 4 / 87 and Relay 5 coil, If you slide the little connector out you can solder a small wire to it,

Having a Voltmeter is a great reassurance especially if you're running heated gear. Pin 87 of the ECU relay would be a good spot, it's direct from the battery via a fuse and very little load to cause Voltage drop. I think I would add a resistor (100-470 Ohms) 0r small fuse close to the relay to protect the ECU circuit in case the meter got accidentally shorted. (oooppps I just noticed Moto Fugazzi suggested that) http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif BTW, I often tell guys the petcock fuse is a great place to monitor, if you are having an intermittent rough running, If the bike won't start or is cutting out that's the first thing I check, Is the ECU relay getting good clean power to it's coil? Suppose you lose your key, look where the petcock fuse is connected. It would be interesting to see what happens to your observed 0.9V drop at the petcock fuse/connector, try it several times opening and closing the ignition switch, operating the stand switch, operating the kill switch. The V11 Sport is a lot more forgiving than most other Guzzis because the start relay is not powered through the ignition switch, just the coil is. We don't get many "Startus Interuptus" discussions on here.

1 spare wheel bearing, I lost one on the EV last summer Sent from my shoe phone!

I have a pressure gauge on my V11 Sport, it drops to zero on hard acceleration if you let the level get a bit low. The oil pressure switches fail regularly so you may not see a low pressure. Acceleration uphill with low oil would be inviting disaster, Get a Roper plate or keep the level topped up.

MikeDelta, The size is not very important since it's so short. I would use no less than 14 AWG or the equivalent of 20 Amps in metric size. If it's close you could always use a strap made of Al sheet-metal that way it would be Aluminium all the way and it might even look better. Don't forget to add some grease between the joints, that will extend it's life. Roy

Gerbing also have a lower Voltage line, 7 Volts I think with appropriate battery.

BTW, I just pulled the wheels apart on my 72 Eldorado Tapered rollers, look like new, if they were balls like later Guzzis I'm sure it would have gone through several sets by now.

After years of looking at Guzzi wheels with cheap 2RS ball races for bearings imagine my surprise when I pulled the wheels apart on my 72 Eldorado to find tapered rollers with a proper dedicated seal. I think it's a good idea to have at least one spare bearing with you when traveling any distance.

If it's just the big ends they are fairly inexpensive, about $80 for a set.

MikeDelta, The fixing screws on mine were almost stripped, it had those silly spring clips to the horn bracket that's why I drilled the fin The Horn bracket is bolted to the frame with no obvious attempt to make a good contact . Since doing that I have done other Guzzis with just a lug under the mounting bolt. Yes, just connect the strap to the nearest timing cover screw or another bolt on the engine. The path back through the engine, gearbox and main battery ground is better than the small copper wire Luigi provided. I thought about disconnecting Luigi's wire but I think it may provide some insurance in case the main ground works loose. Without a ground I see nothing to stop the +12 battery terminal reaching 60 Volts or more, for that reason it's also important to keep the terminals clean and greased. You have probably read it's not a good idea to jump the bike from a car battery because of spikes, I think it's ok provided the bike battery is connected so it can suppress any Voltage spikes.

Stewgnu is right as far as fitting by chilling or perhaps you could wind them in with a length of ready rod, I don't remember it being dificult If I remember correctly I just tapped the outer race out with a bar from the back-side. The tricky one is removing the lower inner race, I drove a cold chisel in between the bearing and the lower triple clamp.

Zooter, I think you may be trying to post an image, I sent you a PM Roy

Yes, just jumped the contacts, left the relay out, another quick fix is to wrap a strand of wire figure 8 fashion around 30, 87 & 87A pins of the relay and put it back (I include 87A because some other Guzzi models use that pin instead of 87) Just looking at the Digikey site (sorry I can't copy the link from here), trace it back from my relay link Switches / Magnetic, reed switches I see a bunch of 1 Amp reed switches that would be perfect for the stand switch, the relays and petcock add up to about 750mA Expensive though about $1.50 each. The glass switch could be potted into a length of non ferrous tube activated by a magnet on the stand to make a really rugged switch, typically reed switches are rated in billions of operations, I use one as a pickup for the speedo. Part No 374-1043-1-ND, HE133-ND or 374-1070-1-ND for example

At the moment I just have a length of wire stuffed in 30 to 87 of the relay socket. For some reason I am reluctant to change the wiring, if I find a good side-stand switch I will re-instate it, perhaps a magnet activated reed switch thus avoiding the chance of future corrosion I agree, it is really the Neutral relay

I started reading this thread then realized I was reading posts from 2008 so I skipped to page 8 I have been buying regular Omrons from Digikey made in USA or in the case of the last batch made in Italy http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/G8HN-1C2T-R%20DC12/Z2247-ND/765512 http://www.components.omron.com/components/web/PDFLIB.nsf/0/A140CFCA6C49AD6685257201007DD4E2/$file/G8HN_0607.pdf Things I have discovered Relay No 5 ECU Power relay The fuel pump draws about 4.5 amps unless the fuel filters blocked where it can draw about 9 Each injector will draw 1 amp Each coil will draw 17 Amps That all adds up to 22.5 Amps The relay base connectors build up a little resistance with time, you should pull them out and put back at least once a year, this gives the pins a bit of a scratch to get rid of any oxide, I smear the base with a little Vaseline so the pins draw it into the connector. The nature of coils (ignition and injectors) makes me think you need a really good connection to get a fast rise time on the voltage Relay No 1 (Start relay) This will draw 50 amps, it's simple Ohms Law but only for a split second, not a problem for the Omron. I'm sure you are all aware of "Startus Interuptus" caused by Luigi wiring other Guzzi start relays in series with the ignition switch, he got our spine frame bikes right IMHO Relay No 2 (Headlight relay) On my 2001 the contact was fed from the Normally Closed contact of the Start relay, other bikes just use the Start relay to switch the Headlight relay coil. Since the base connectors can build up a little resistance this can throw off the Ducati Energia Voltage regulator which measures the Voltage downstream to control the battery Voltage upstream. I don't believe coil suppression is an issue, the coils should not be switching at all while you are riding. (the Omrons have a resistor) As someone pointed out Luigi wasn't very fussy where he put positive. I believe Luigi did a good job on the ECU wiring, powering it direct from the battery through a pair of relays. It's very important that relay 4 never drops out, this will cause the ECU to reset, I have seen the Voltage on mine flickering away on several occasions as the stand switch sizzles. I have the stand relay bypassed at the moment Another time I experienced it dropping out when the ignition switch resistance was too high. Here's what I did with mine over the first winter, created a little light show http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/Kiwi_Roy/slideshow/Relay%20LEDs You can easily create a Test Relay to move from slot to slot Last of all here is how you can tighten up the relay sockets, be careful, if you break the connectors they aren't easy to find. I helped fix a bike recently where one of the connectors had come unclipped, it was just making contact due to the spring in the wire.

A good regulator ground is very important with the Ducati Energia because the charging current goes back to the alternator via the ground to regulator case. The two internal SCRs are bolted to the case However some of the after market regulators have a separate negative wire, there's nothing internal connected to the case so they would be just fine hanging loose It's very important to inspect the main battery ground, if that works loose starting current will try to find it's way back to the battery by one of the small ground wires, like the one from regulator case letting out the magic smoke as happened here. I have toyed with the idea of chopping off the OEM ground and just relying on the strap to chassis which would avoid this situation when the main ground comes loose but it might create a different problem, at least the tiny ground wire keeps the bike running. Here's where I found mine, underneath the seat release lock (small screw), luckily I caught it in time. I moved it to, a gearbox bolt, in plain view. If ever you experience really weak starting suspect the main ground for sure.

If your regulator has two wires that connect to the battery (Positive & Negative) it may not need to be grounded. I would still have an in-line 30 Amp fuse next to the battery, it's cheap insurance.

Piece of cake, when you change the back tire, disconnect the suspension, loosen off the two swing arm pivots, remove the two pinch bolts clamping the front uni joint and drop it right out. A word of caution, when replacing the two pinch bolts be very careful to center the holes with the indent in the shaft otherwise the treads will chew off the bolts. Make sure the factory paint marks line up if you uncouple the spline at all.

Really with a fuel injected system a petcock shouldn't be required, the injectors are closed. Remove some parts for a temporary fix as Hubert says. Perhaps the previous owner already did that, are the wires still there? Easy to check just loosen the hose and see if fuel squirts out. I still like the electric petcock on my bikes, makes removing the tank easier. For a permanent fix, do as Docc says and strap the wires to the body with a ty-wrap for good measure.

That's great news, glad you got it sorted.