Kiwi_Roy

Only between spine and air box, The spine drain is still to the sump.

The filter on mine gets dirty but I doubt it drips, as foto says, "don't mess with something Guzzi got right"

When I took the airbox off mine I ran that hose down below the gearbox and finished it off with a K&N crankcase breather filter. The return from spine to sump remains. Even the old loops have a tank on the crankcase vent with a line back to the sump, it dips in below the surface to form a liquid seal.

Pardon me but the plug on this cable doesn't look like it will fit the 3 pin Guzzi connector on my V11 Sport I ordered the 2 part cable off ebay months ago, I only received 1/2

Does the cam bushing get held in by the valve lube fitting like on a loop? I'm too lazy to go and look.

By cold weld I think you are referring to tiny cracks around the pins, that's a sign of pressure on the connector, once your technician has re-soldered them you should be good to go. Re-install the ECU with the plug underneath so the seat doesn't push down on the connector. Consider tapping into the wire from the ECU slider (pin 11) so it's easy to set the TPS, just solder to the wire where the previous owner joined the loom. Check all the joints he made, solder and heatshrink if possible and you won't have any more trouble.

Check the battery ground where it connects to the chassis, that's about the only thinng that would stop it cranking with a car battery jumpered across, either that or you don't have a good jumper connection. Test your meter on another battery, say the car to prove it's ok. Make sure your headlight is on with the key otherwise the Voltage reg will not turn on and the battery will go flat.

Yes, I was faced with the same problem, I searched the hardware and auto stores then I noticed a 6mm grease nipple looked similar. You just have to grind or file the tip off the threaded end to let the spring and ball out. If you are attaching plastic tube you need to fasten it on or it will fall off as the engine heats up, I found a rubber tube that just slipped over the plastic, it keeps the tension on.

Adding a test light is good for measuring Voltage, as you say if you have a weak circuit it will pull the Voltage down but for Ohms all you need is a meter. its not so easy to figure out the Ohms with a circuit in parallel, 1/R = 1/R1 + 1/R2 etc To measure Ohms a digital meter is probably more accurate than an analog type. Sometimes if you get an odd reading switch the probes around, if you get a different reading something is adding some Voltage to the circuit, a corroded joint for instance. To measure low resistance electricians pass a current through the circuit and measure the Voltage drop, you can measure down to micro-Ohms that way. Similarly the diode range of a meter applies a current through a resistor to the diode and the meter measures the Voltage drop across the diode A test light or analog meter measuring Voltage will indicate a rapid change in Voltage better than a digital meter. I particularly like LEDs as their response is instant.

I think your first reading was 2.24 Kohms Since you have the joints in the loom find the wire that connects to pin #11 and make this available for future TPS Voltage measurements. The Voltage reference to battery negative (chassis) should go smoothly from about 500mV to 4.5 Volts as you slowly open the throttle. If the tachometer works it's ok the reading shows it's connected.

Before you pull the ECU apart check the wires to the plug. If you can find an old computer serial cable the pins make a good test tool. You mentioned earlier that the loom had been chopped and re-joined, inspect those connections first. From the joint you should be able to check continuity to the plug. As fotoguzzi says If the ECU is mounted with the plug on top sometimes the seat will push down on it and may crack the circuit board, often around the pins, it's usually quite easy to fix, find the crack and solder a strand of wire across it or re-solder the pins.

Originally the wiring loom went down below the seat release key then back up to the ECU. I suspect the previous owner shortened the loom and re-routed it along the top frame when he changed from the stock airbox to pods, I did that with mine. If the joints are properly soldered and insulated there's nothing wrong with that, there's many soldered joints in the original loom. Can you take a picture of the worst part. If the loom on-line is cheap enough why not but you will have the problem of it being too long, I just folded mine back under the tank.

Hubert. At one time my bike was showing the coughing spitting symptoms, it was running but barely. I found the ignition switch was reading 18 Ohms and so I concluded that relay 4 was fluttering, cleaning the switch fixed it. Good point about the relay base, I fixed a bike recently where a connector had pushed out the back of base and was just touching the relay pin I will send MAW a sketch of how to pull the pins out if they need tightening. Also check that the fuse clips are nice and tight. The fuse holder pulls off so you can check the wires at the rear. It looks like screws hold it in but it just plugs into a couple of rubber grommets.

Slowkitty said "Press hard on the cowl and turn the key" I often have to do this, it takes all the tension off the latch

The coughing and spitting could be the ECU dropping out due to a high resistance in one of the following Ignition Switch Side-stand Switch Engine Run Switch aka Kill Switch The easy way to eliminate these 3 is to monitor the Voltage at fuse 8 with a small lamp to chassis, it should stay ON, no flickering. Use the sketch I sent earlier to measure the switches.

Don't do that, pulling the fuse or relay disables the Voltage regulator/charging. Unplug the 4 way connector under the headlight to save power.

I'm guessing that when the unit is not in use all the mercury would disappear into the 1 x 4 reservoir so its really 4 separate vacuum gauges. It may still have mercury in it but I wouldn't use it that way. Mercury is now considered a hazardous substance, spill just one drop on your garage floor and it will put you over the current "Safe Limit" As it was it would compare the manifold vacuum to atmospheric pressure so it needed mercury. If you fill it to the point say 25% full scale and the reservoir is sealed it will act as a differential type comparing one manifold to the other (not to atmosphere) so it doesn't need a heavy fluid. The unused tubes would also need to remain capped otherwise you will suck air With oil it will also be about 15 x more sensitive. Really I think you should just screw it on the wall as a talking point. I have my manometer filled with oil, it rarely goes more than about a foot out of balance before I shut down and tweak the screws.

Yes, along with the idiot lights and the Voltage regulator/charging. You must also have a 5 pin start relay to power the headlight relay. It works when everything is perfect http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif

The tacho gets power from the headlight relay, check your light is on. It also needs a good ground. There are two one way connectors (7) & (58)in the pulse signal from the ECU http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif The schematic shows 2 grounds, one for the lamp another for the electronics. Might I suggest a different method Leave the LH idle stop where it is (520 mV setting), take the linkage off When you take off the linkage the TPS mV should drop back to 150 (RH throttle fully closed, I assume you are only using the LH screw to this point) Wind the RH idle stop in to get 520 mV So now in theory both left and right throttle bodies should be the same correct? (the linkage is still disconnected and the bypass screws are both still 1/2 turn) Start the bike and using LH idle stop fine tune the balance. If the revs are too far off turn both idle stops in or out by the same No of flats, it should stay in balance. At his point if the bike is idling a little rough you could try combinations of air bleed/throttle stops to get the idle ok Now you have the idle speed and balance bang on re-connect the linkage adjusted so it doesn't upset all the hard work. Now try the high speed balance using the knob, it should not upset the idle. Sooner or later you will find a happy combination of different methods, One thing, is it possible you have a more serious problem like a burnt valve that is throwing it off, a compression test perhaps remembering to hold the throttle wide open as it cranks over.

I took the time this evening to measure the pump current With the petcock closed 4.3 Amps With the petcock Open 3.95 Amps The current at Fuse 2 while cranking (pump Plus Ignition & Injectors) 4.3 to 4.5 Amps The current at a steady idle 4 Amps So your fuse 2 is drawing far too much, my guess is the pumps blocked in somehow or faulty since you measured over 6 Amps. Note: I have an electric petcock so it could be sucking open. I suggest you verify the flow at all points to the pump, pump to filter, filter to regulator, regulator back to tank. Here's a sketch I did for someone else, note the pump measured 1.3 Ohms Point 1 refers to the 12 Volts from the safety circuit that must be present to excite the ECU, not a problem in your case.

If all the tubes are connected to a common reservoir and it's not open to atmosphere you could use any fluid e.g. oil The unused tubes would need to be plugged off. You would fill it with oil to a point half way up the tubes Show me a picture of the rear and reservoir and I will elaborate. One has to wonder what happened to the mercury that was there before. Your Guzzis are spoilt, Persian rugs to sit on

That's great news Massimo, I haven't seen that problem before but I have seen a relay socket pushed out the back and just touching. Hopefully you have learned some electrickery along the way. Roy "Moto Guzzi, making Electricians out of riders for over 90 years"

Ok, I Googled the Twinmax, it obviously works using a differential pressure cell. that's very good. I thought it was one of those devices with metal rods. Still I can buy a lot of beer for $105. Since it's so portable you should try riding with it, then you would be able to see the balance at open throttle settings.

3) Since the rod is not connected it plays no part in setting the TPS which is on the RH throttle body however you need to close the LH throttle body all the way for the next step. 4) with the LH throttle fully closed adjust the rod so that the ball pops in place without moving the RH throttle (now you have both throttles fully closed and the mV at 150. You can eyeball it to see that both the throttles leave the stop together, if not tweak the rod a little till they do. 5) No we are not ready to start yet 6) Adjust LH stop until the TPS measures 520 (this number is not cast in stone it's just a point to get the bike up near idle speed) the key is on but we haven't started the bike. (now in theory both throttles are open the same) 7) Open the air bleeds, I use 3/4 it doesn't really matter. The air bleeds could have been done any time up to step 8 they have no effect yet. 7a) Start the bike, I would now adjust the LH throttle stop to get the correct idle speed leaving the air bleeds alone. (note how your setting of 520 mV is now out the window) Perhaps you would prefer to turn both air bleeds by equal amounts. As I pointed out previously more mV = more fuel for the same RPM 8) Adjust the air bleeds to get idle balance 9) As you say 10) No, tweak the air bleeds to get the balance correct at idle I have no idea how well a Twinmax works, one of my trades is instrumentation so I prefer a "U" tube manometer filled with engine oil, it's the most accurate measurement you can get. The oils viscosity damps it out just right

The knob changes the length of the link between the two butterfly levers, it must effect the opening of the RH throttle relative to LH throttle. What method are you using to measure the vacuum? If you are using the one screw method the link is in tension holding the RH throttle open Balance idle using air bleeds (same throttle left and right) Blip the throttle, change length of link with white knob to get the same throttle opening at speed The air bleeds have very little effect at high speed because the size of their opening is tiny compared to the butterfly With the one screw method chances are if you touch the knob you now have to re-do the idle air bleeds again It's a job that takes a few times before you get the light bulb to turn on, just figure out what each step is doing and what effect it may have on the previous step. If you open the air bleeds since you are not moving the butterfly the TPS Voltage is not changing but the idle speed is going up therefore the mixture must be getting leaner, If you close the air bleeds without moving the butterfly the idle speed is going down, the mixture is getting richer. So you can see it's possible to control the mixture at idle speed by using a balance between butterfly position (idle stop) and air bleed. If you use the idle stop of course it throws off the 521 mV you so carefully set back at the top of the thread, that's ok it was just an interim step. The first time I attempted it I got right screwed up