Kiwi_Roy

Its hard to know I can't judge the size, is it possibly the coil for an electric petcock http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif item 32 Does the red wire come from Fuse 8? Owners sometimes remove the electric valve and replace with a manual petcock. What is the complete part No we can see just 083

Actually the regulator is set for ~ 13.8 Volts, by the time you get some Voltage drop through the headlight relay the battery ends up a little higher say 14.3. If the regulator reference was connected directly to the battery it wouldn't go over 13.8. How do you do that? Either use a dedicated relay or look for another relay that has less load on it. Adding after-market headlight relays will do that also [url=https://ibb.co/4sWhKc1][img]https://i.ibb.co/bH1cQxb/Ducati-Energia-Schematic-w-Notes.jpg[/img][/url]

It really doesn't matter which you run to, the battery positive or the live terminal on the starter solenoid, the battery post usually has too many on already and it depends on where you mount the relay, close to the battery or close to the starter Not the one that connects to the starter motor, the one that connects to the battery. Here are the drawing files, but no perving at Carl's girlfriend mind you. Scroll down without looking! http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/sportissimo.html

I wondered how accurate the flywheel is, there are 6 different positions the flywheel can be bolted on, with the trouble owners have finding TDC its highly likely they would bolt it on in one of the other 5, what fun you would have then lol

Tom, when I drew the Simple Wiring Diagram I was using my 2001 VII Sport, it had a direct feed to the Start Relay, unfortunately a couple of years later the Guzzi factory switched the Start Relay feed to the ignition switch causing untold grief for owners. You can see the difference here. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif 1999 era with a direct feed to the relay. My 2001 never had a problem with cranking but the regulator Voltage reference was the pits (through two sets of relay contacts). http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif 2004 with the start relay fed through the ignition switch, I would like to believe the factory are ignorant of the high current the starter solenoid draws but you have to wonder why they haven't spoken to the manufacturer about it some time in the last 50 years. Note this year has a direct connected Voltage regulator, that' should be a plus. I assume you are having the dreaded click when you press the start button, that is caused by too much Voltage drop through the ignition switch, the starter solenoid is designed to pull at least 40 Amps while it is moving the gear into mesh, once engaged with the main contacts closed it drops to 10 Amps. The Guzzi schematics never show the double coils in the solenoid, they are both about the same number of turn but one is of heavier gauge wire and draws 5 x the current, thats the one missing on the factory drawings. All Guzzi starters have this double coil even today. You can probably improve things for a while by cleaning the ignition switch contacts but the real answer is to change the start relay feed from through the switch to direct but that involves changing the headlight relay wiring as well. Another easy method is to add a new relay to the existing solenoid trigger circuit to boost the signal the trigger wire is removed from the solenoid and now only picks up the new relay coil, a fraction of an Amp, the new relay contact is fed from a new fuse direct from the battery, it can now provide as much current as the solenoid needs. You will probably hear about the MPH solution, I don't think that will work with your bike, it would result in the headlight staying On. I have never actually done one adding an extra relay but it has the advantage in that the original wiring remains the same. The current of 40-50 amps will only last for about 20 milliseconds (as long as it takes to close the main contacts) then it will drop to 10 Amps while cranking. The current through the motor of course will be 150 - 200 Amps, no change there. No need for a relay socket, just use spade lugs right on the relay pins.

Back from the dead? You can't argue with that.

Yes that would work but not so nice as adding two small diodes LEDs are diodes as well, thats why it only works properly for one direction, if you flip it around it works for the other direction Add 2 diodes and run it to chassis and the current is always going the right direction through the dash LED, it cannot get to the wrong side lamps because it's blocked by the other diode.

I didn't answer that, yes LEDs usually have a resistance of several thousand Ohms but what's confusing is they also have a forward bias Voltage of around 3 Volts so you can't really measure the resistance with a normal multimeter. The original incandescent lamp as fitted to the dash resistance is quite low when it's cold, around 100 Ohms from memory. Some LED blinker lights operate with a very tiny current, I recently helped a Griso owner who's lamps were glowing with the key turned off, the lamps were operating on 40 microamps, that's 0.00004 Amps. On the Griso they use a tiny current to alarm the dash if the normal incandescent lamp burns out, he had fitted LED lamps in the existing lamp holders. Diodes are the only answer when you want to use a single dash lamp with LED signal lamps, even the tiny current an LED dash lamp draws is enough to operate some LED signal lamps, only the Voltage from the active side gets to the lamp, the path is blocked from the lamp to the other side by the other diode. BTW if you add diodes you will still be able to use the original dash lamp or an LED We never did establish if it was the leakage current through the lamp or your new LEDs are actually shorting the lamp holders out.

You can sort of figure out the series resistor value of an LED. A small one like an idiot light draws about 10 milliamps (you can measure it), the LED has ~ 3 Volts across it so you need to drop 9 Volts. 9 / 0.01 = 900 Ohms, that would be the minimum in reality it could be much higher like 1-10 K Ohms, you really need to read the specs to figure it out. Back to the topic When you put the "controle light" in the socket, does it light at all? If not its shorting the socket out and all four flashers are getting power, this happened to me also, as a temporary fix I snipped one side off the wire contacts. If the lamps on one side are working correctly but the other side are flashing dimly its because the current the "controle light" draws is enough to make them work, then you need to change the wiring a little as per my sketch No 3, The back to back diodes prevent the signal from going to the opposite side. Any small diodes will do they only carry a few milliamps the other side of the "controle light" goes to chassis. I found the old file under the topic Main Switch Fuse Blows Sorry about the poor resolution, I took a picture of the screen because it was messed up by photo bucket.

I just read through the original post again, I missed the point previously. When I had a VII I decided to replace the idiot lights with LEDs so I ordered some and stuck them in, turned the key on and a fuse blew. On investigation the contact on the new lamps shorted out the lamp holders, if you look at the lamps side by side you will see that the contact wires go at right angles to each other. s\So with the LED you are connecting both sides together. I like to use type 194 lamps to replace the lamp holders, they glue into the shroud then just solder the wires directly onto the lamps, they should outlast the bike. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-and-subminiature-bulbs/194-led-bulb-1-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/197/ Lampholders are available for these but they don't work well in the confines of the dash, just solder the wires directly to the lamps A pair of seizers are a big help when soldering the wires on.

Ha, you stole my picture. That 32mm socket has proven to be really useful.

I don't remember any difficulty when I changed the timing chain and tensioner on my VII Sport. Removing the nut on the crankshaft you need a special deep socket or just go with a 3/4" 32 mm socket and turn to with a wrench. I don't have a picture of the VII Sport but you should be able to visualize the crankshaft sticking through the socket. Wrap a few layers of masking tape around the shaft to protect it. [url=https://ibb.co/HCZfFjV][img]https://i.ibb.co/KDnp0JX/IMG-0534.jpg[/img][/url] Oops what's happened to the image hosting?

And don't forget you aren't traveling through the air while idling. Too hot to touch is not really too hot for modern electronics.

A thought occurred to me, has this bike suffered from a meltdown in the wiring, any burnt ground wires around the ECU or the ground wire from the Voltage regulator to battery negative? Its really difficult to troubleshoot remotely when you are not sure exactly what version of the wiring diagram you have.

I think this may be the appropriate wiring diagram Fuse 8 is spare, no electrical petcock Removing Fuse 1 or fuse 2 or the relays (46) or (49) associated with the ECU should stop the engine do you agree, I think the relays are 4 & 5 in position. The main interlock through the one way connector (57) to relay (49) coil MUST turn off with the key OR the kill switch, the relay base is a good place to verify that with a test light io chassis. Click on the diagram to Zoom in.

At a first guess I would pull the ignition switch off to see if the wire is not broken and touching behind the switch. Just undo the two Phillips screws that lets the block drop off. Refresh the Vaseline while you have it off.

A most interesting problem What year and what model is the bike? I'm sure there is a simple explanation.

Docc, Are you sure its discharging, my V7iii will sit at 14.7 all day while riding but it drops to high 12s overnight even if disconnected. Its risky trying to read the leakage current with a multimeter, very easy to blow the fuse in the meter then it will read zero for sure. One method I use is to connect a small incandescent lamp in series with the meter on milliamp range it will act as a current limit to protect the meter fuse.

That must be where I read it. I dont use tin plated wire but I always dip the wire in Vaseline before crimping, it keeps the copper bright.

I have never bothered but you can buy wire that is tin plated, they use it on boats a lot so a marine store is a likely source. I think it would stand up to the conditions in the alternator better, Docc, can you give us the model No of your regulator so I can look up the connection, there might be something in the wiring instructions that pops out. Roy

The original Ducati Energias drew about 15 milliamps from the reference circuit (headlight) but when the key is off it doesn't draw anything. My aftermarket direct connect regulator from Electrosport drew 0.3 milliamps all the time On or Off It should not be possible to get current back flowing from the battery to the yellow wires.

Replacing the wires is dead simple but you might need a 40 Watt iron, one with a pencil bit may not have quite enough heat A soldering gun would have plenty of heat or something like a Weller thermostatically controlled one, there's certainly no nend to replace the stator just because the wires are shot. Out of interest here is the stator from my V7 Special

They are referring to the insulation resistance 10 MΩ is what you can expect with new wiring but even 0.5 MΩ is perfectly adequate. We don't normally bother with measuring the insulation resistance for 12V wiring but its standard practice for mains wiring its done at a DC Voltage if I recall correctly 1.5 x normal Voltage so it requires a special meter commonly referred to as a Megger, not just a normal multimeter. If you use new copper wire you will find it solders well to the existing coils.

My VII Sport did the same thing, the wire was so corroded I couldn't re-solder it so I simply replaced it with new yellow wires.

The sensor gap should be between 0.6 and 1.2mm. Its really hard to measure in situ, this is how I do mine. Stick a small blob of JB Kwik on the tip and bolt it in place, don't turn the motor. Allow time for it to set up, pull the sensor out again and measure the thickness of the epoxy. As for making the sensor oil tight, i'm convinced the oil leaks through the sensor not around it. I took to carrying a spare sensor in the Monkey Paw trap there's absolutely nothing you can do on the road if the sensor fails open. I don't have a VII any more but I have a two Valve Griso, it can be just as frustrating. I'm pleased to see some of you are still using the Go Winkie as Docc calls it to instantly troubleshoot a bad contact in the wiring to the ECU relay, I remember finding mine at about half brightness when the stand switch was acting up. Cheers Roy