Kiwi_Roy

You can easily test the TPS by measuring the Voltage going to pin 11 of the ECU and Battery Negative Poke a sewing pin into the wire and attach your meter Red lead, Black lead to the battery negative. 20 Volt range. You should see it vary from 450-500 mV to about 4.5 Volts as you open the throttle. If you open the throttle slowly the Voltage should follow smoothly with no sudden jumps.

Kitty, I think a high mileage bike will need the use of right throttle stop screw to take up the slack in the linkages and ball joint because of wear and tear. Phang Exactly

I think I sent you the Efiman document it definitely says the pump draws 4-1/2 amps. (I will measure mine this evening) With the ECU unplugged the pump is the only thing in circuit. Unplug the ECU again and run the pump for 1/2 hour or so, it won't hurt, the current should be steady. Listen for any variation in noise, current etc It would be nice if you could get a pressure reading as it shows in the document. Even 6 amps shouldn't cause the fuse to blow although the coils and injectors add a bit to that. You can monitor the total current by removing the fuse and substituting your ammeter there. Back in your original post you said it was running really rough with a 15 Amp fuse so something must be happening to either drop fuel pressure or short out the ignition. Several V11 Sports I know of have let out the magic smoke from the main loom when the main battery ground worked lose;. The small black wire from the regulator to battery negative gets red hot and melts to other wires, have you ever experienced slow cranking. Something similar can happen if you disconnect the battery, positive first and accidentally touch the ECU with a live wrench. Examine all the wiring associated with pump, coils and injectors.

To get mine (80K) to idle consistently I use both throttle stop screws. At 15k I'm sure the linkages are still nice and tight but mine would be ±100 revs relying on just the LH stop I start with both bodies shut and feel for the screw just making contact using a slip of paper as a feeler, then I wind both in by an equal amount.

The electric petcock is a chrome cylindrical solenoid on LH side of tank in the position of a normal petcock. The wires are known to break where they come out. You can check the solenoid from under the seat it connects to fuse No 8 if you pull that the solenoid is connected to the terminal closest to the middle. it should read 30 - 35 Ohms to chassis. You can check the fuel pump current draw by pulling relay 5 and placing a current meter between the 30 and 87 sockets, it should measure about 4.5 amps. If there's something blocking the pump it will be 9 or 10 Amps. (I haven't measured it with the petcock closed) The symptoms sound like a blocked fuel filter but you won't get rust with a plastic tank. . The pumps also get quite noisy if the discharge is blocked, they have an internal pressure relief. If you pull the return hose off the pressure regulator (RH side of tank) and direct it into a container you should see full pipe flow. 26 gallons per hour according to a document I have.

I vote for No 2, the fuel filter clogged, but why, you have a plastic tank so it wont rust? If it were the EV you were riding that would make more sense, tank rust is fairly common. Stopping allows the filter to clear a little when the pump stops. If you unplug the ECU and remove relay No 5 this gives you access to the pump. Turn the key ON, this should open the petcock which you should be able to verify by a click or by feel Plug a 10 Amp ammeter between relay 5 from 30 to 87 and the pump will run, from memory it draws 4 Amps but it will draw more like 10 if the discharge is plugged. The filter can be restored, just pour a bit of fuel in and with your fingers over the holes give it a good shake then let it run out the inlet hole into a can.

Updated April 2019 Besides my 01 Greenie SOLD 2007 Griso Enduro California II SOLD 98 EV SOLD Lario SOLD 72 Eldorado My Josephine

Congratulations Those Carbon Fiber cans are awesome, the guys I ride with reckon my bike is the best sounding bike they have heard. Yes, don't discard the original air-box, pods look ok but they don't perform any better, worse in fact.

The V11 Sport is quite simple electrical wise but it has a few simple electrical faults, we can talk you through those. I have the same bike. The key to making it run is getting power to the petcock fuse, most of the faults happen in the wiring before there. The first thing I would do is remove the contact block from the ignition switch and clean it. Run a proper ground from the voltage regulator to a timing cover screw Check the 30 Amp fuse for signs of heating. Pick up a couple of spare relays Set up the TPS Balance the throttle bodies Ride it. I will send you a Personal Message

My 01 has plastic, but it's an after market Bosch look alike. The original was trashed by the PO I guess it doesn't count.

I'm just trying to understand why the pumps not running when you jumper relay 5, I thought the Voltage on pin 30 may have been missing. I measured the current between 30 & 87 it reads ~4 Amps, you do not need the key ON to do this test. A few easy tests you can do. 1) You must get 12 Volts on the coil pin of relay 4, without that the ECU will not work and the bike will never start. Check the kill switch or side-stand circuit. 2) You can measure the fuel pump resistance from Relay 5 87 contact to chassis, it should be just over 1 Ohm proving the wiring is ok. 3) If you have an ammeter you can measure the pump current at Relay 5, about 4 Amps. If you don't have a suitable meter just poke a short wire between the 30 & 87 contacts and listen for the pump. (you don't need the key ON to do this test) Other tests The 30 contact of both relays must be alive at all times, even with the key OFF With relay 5 out. and the ECU plugged in put your multimeter on Volts in the socket where relay 5 coil pins go. When you turn the key ON you should get a 2 second 12 Volt pulse. Make sure you have the battery installed with the Negative terminal to chassis. I know this sounds silly but I helped an owner recently who had the battery in backwards. It was easy to do in his case because the battery was a universal type with 4 posts. The Safety diode on relay 4 prevents the relay powering up the ECU in this case.

With the ECU plug removed measure the 87 terminal of the relay to the chassis should read quite low, perhaps 1 or 2 Ohms if the fuel pump is connected. If the reading is high the pump is either not connected or it's faulty, remove the tank and check right at the pump terminals. While at the pump you can also check the wires between 87 and the pump + terminal, the pump - terminal to chassis also If 87 to the chassis reads ok check that terminal 30 of the relay is alive (12 Volts) with your multimeter, try this also while you place the jumper between 30 & 87. Please excuse a silly question, when you turn the key ON does the headlight turn ON? It must also stay on when you jumper 30 to 87 of relay No 5

Fails to crank eh! Do you hear the faint click of the relay? If Not Sometimes these bikes get a loose connection just under the tank, by wiggling the bars from lock to lock you find a sweet spot. Mine did that for a while then it cleared up so I never did find out exactly what was the cause, it's an electricians bike after all LOL. If you hear the relay click but not the solenoids loud clunk its more likely to be a bad contact in the ignition switch, this is easy to clean. The starter solenoid needs a super connection to the battery because it draws so much current. I'm not referring to the motor itself, that draws ~150 Amps, the solenoid on top has two coils, one draws 10 Amps but the other that does most of the work throwing the cogs into mesh would like to pull 40 - 50, just for a split second. The Guzzi factory doesn't take that into account or they wouldn't keep wiring bikes in the same stupid way, I don't think they are aware of the second coil, if you look at the schematic in your manual it doesn't show it so nearly every model sooner or later suffers from what;s referred to as "Startus Interuptus". My year of V11 Sport they wired completely different with the start relay powered directly from the battery as I show below. it never fails to crank if the batteries good and the start relay closes, however this wiring created other issues. I wish I could speak to the engineers in the factory, if they took the time to listen It might save future owners a lot of grief. I sometimes suggest to owners having start problems, "add a little lamp to the starter solenoid trigger wire", I don't think anyone listens. The lamp would just flash on when you press start to indicate how much Voltage the solenoid is getting, imagine how envious the Harley guys would be Next time it wont start eliminate all the wiring and prove the starter, battery and main connections are ok with a simple jumper a wire to the solenoids trigger terminal as I mentioned earlier. In particular read Note 1 The funny looking diagram at the bottom of the page is what's known in electrical circles as a timing diagram used to describe the sequence of events. If you follow the second line across it jumps up to 50 Amps but quickly drops down to 10. The 50 Amp short pulse is when both coils are working hard to throw the gear into engagement and close the magnetic gap, as soon as they engage the main contacts close and the current bypasses the heavy coil, the light coil just has the easy job holding it in place while the bike cranks over. This is a Valeo starter, the old Bosch starter solenoids work the same way.

Another option is Digikey www.digikey.com part No G8HN-1C2T-R-DC12 Omrons I buy a lot of parts from them The latest batch I purchased were made in Italy, your Guzzis gota like that I think Pyro Dan still has the best price.

Can you be a bit more specific The bike fails to crank? or cranks but fails to fire? when it cranks it fires ok? I think on this model the start relay is powered through the ignition switch, that is a common problem quite easily fixed by removing the contact block and cleaning. The block is held on by 2 Phillips screws towards the rear (no need to remove the lock which is usually held by security bolts) There is an interlock switch on the clutch lever, If you think its that just cut the wires off the switch and twist them together. If you have a stand switch you can disable this by removing the stand relay and wrapping a bare wire figure 8 fashion around the central pins ___ 30 Short out 30, 67 & 87A ___ 87 | | | 87A Actually only one of the pins 87 or 87A is used but it's a no brainer to short all three, 30 is the hot one. Since you are in the middle of a trip something easy is to jumper from the small solenoid trigger terminal to the battery or the large hot terminal bypassing all the start logic. Use a wire rated 10 Amps or more, the solenoid draws a lot of current.

Tie a bit of shop rag around it to catch the oil and ride. You can fix it when the weather packs in,

Voltage drop only 0.09 V Then I'm guessing you have a pair of headlight relays powered directly from the battery, either that or your headlights turned OFF Are you happy with your battery Voltage?

Yes, I think you have it right I sent you a PM

You need a wire that has no load on it (no Voltage drop) and is connected to the battery, it doesn't have to be a big one. Pass it through relay contacts, the relay coil can be any switched circuit, the original Red/black wire to the reference for example and chassis. I had thought of using a wire from relay 4 87 contact, it has very little load on it and is powered direct from the battery through a fuse. I don't know what you will think about using the ECU relay though. The regulator draws about 15 mA.

I'm pretty sure the ESR515 is a direct replacement for the OEM Ducati Energia So it will be effected by the same wiring issues. You might as well get a Ducati Energia If you blew the fuse on the OEM I think the light would still work because the sensing black wire is separate i.e. the black wire provides the power for electronics from the headlight circuit. If however the headlight fuse blew, you would never know for 2 reasons 1) the 12V for the lamp is missing 2) there is no power to fire the transistor If you really want to monitor the charging, get a Voltmeter like my old Cali II has.

In the description they describe it as a "Designed for direct connection to the battery to bypass potential wiring harness issues" If you go plug and play, you keep the old issues. Since I reverse engineered one I thought these are a well designed unit, it's the flakey wiring that destroys them. If any-ones curious do this little test - record the results 1) Take your multimeter and measure the Voltage from battery + to the regulators black wire with the key on 2) If you have a separate light switch turn it on and take the same reading 3) Turn the key OFF, pull the first two relays Start and headlight, put them back in again. 4) Do 1 & 2 again The results are more telling if your relays haven't been disturbed in a long while. If I were to buy another of these I would be tempted to provide the black reference wire with a dedicated relay thus avoiding the flakey headlight circuit. The ones I have are all set at 13.8 Volts, ~ 14.3 when you factor in the Voltage drop from battery to the measuring point. I wonder if they are allowing for it also in their 14.2 setting. I have a fairly new one on my EV, I will check it out.

The ECUs are quite reliable, I think it is not getting 12 Volts Relay 4 sends 12 Volts to the ECU The ECU turns ON relay 5 to run the pump The relay bases look something like this ------ 30 contact, this should be alive (12 Volts) at all times ------ 87 contact, this becomes alive when the relay coil gets power | | | The 2 smaller outside pins are for the coil, the middle one is 87A (not used) If you remove relay No 4 you should see Voltage between the 2 coil pins when the key is ON If you don't try each pin to the chassis (ground / frame) Although you don't have an electric petcock you probably still have a fuse for it, Fuse No 8 on my bike, this should have 12 Volts on it when the bike is ready to run. Between the petcock fuse and relay No 4 there is a single way connector, check it's plugged in. I think the ECU negative is a small wire connected to the battery negative terminal, look closely at the battery and make sure all the wires are connected. I sent you a message.

I think the biggest downfall of the Ducati Energia regulators is the way they measure the Voltage not at the battery but after the headlight relay (after the start relay and the headlight relay on some like my 2001). At this point the Voltage is about 1/2 Volt lower than the battery so to satisfy the regulator setting of 13.8 Volts the battery has to reach 13.8 + 0.5 or 14.3 Volts If the relay pins become a bit corroded or you replace the headlamp with a higher Wattage unit the battery Voltage is pushed even higher. Since charging current v/s charging Voltage is sort of an exponential curve it doesn't take much to push the regulator too far causing the leads to melt a lead off one of the internal diodes effectively cutting the charge capability in half. I believe they sense the Voltage after the headlight relay is because the regulator electronics draws 15 mA which would quite quickly flatten the battery if left on the headlight relay removes power when the key is off. I think using a separate relay Battery + to the black wire would solve this overcharging problem but then the battery Voltage would drop to 13.8 without the benefit of Voltage drop . Actually adding headlight relays powered direct from the battery effectively does this, without the headlight current passing through the circuit the Voltage drop disappears so the battery will charge to about 1/2 Volt less. (there is a simple way to compensate for the lower Voltage i.e. make the regulator adjustable) Another way to cure this problem is to fit a later or after market direct connected regulator. They draw a constant current from the battery even when the bike is off but with modern components it's a lot lower (13.8 mA in the case of Electrosport's ESR510 BTW, don't try to run the bike with the headlight relay pulled or the fuse out to save power because the battery will not be charging.

Ok, ok, I tried mine the light goes out if I pull the fuse with the key on, The red wire supplies the Voltage the regulator needs to work and turn the transistor on to short the light to ground. Im sure Electrosport missed the ignition switch in their diagram (between battery+ and the light) I also measured the current the regulator draws even with the key OFF 3.8 milliamps So it will flatten a 15 AH battery in 15 / 0.0038 hours or 164 days of course if the battery is only half charges to begin with 80 days So pull the fuse over winter

I think adding a ground from rectifier to battery is a bad idea, there is one there already run through the main loom, If the main battery ground works loose this little wire tries to return the starting current, gets red hot and shorts the loom to ground, If you are lucky the bike doesn't catch fire. Grounding the regulator to the engine is a more direct route, the mass of aluminum is a much better conductor than any copper wire, then it travels up the main ground to the battery, If the main ground works loose nothing happens because there is no return path. I see no point in disconnecting the regulator it has diodes in the red wire that are rated over 400 Volts.