Kiwi_Roy

Yes a better ground is vital, on mine it's bolted to the horn bracket which in turn is bolted to the chassis. None of the bolt holes are cleaned of paint or greased to prevent rust. The little wimpy wire that goes back to the battery has too much Voltage drop and in fact it's a liability, more than one guzzi I know has gone up in smoke when the main battery ground worked loose forcing the start current to find an alternate path thru this wire. The connection to ground carries the same current as the red wire as it makes it's way back to the alternator. Any Voltage lost in the ground connection is lost to the battery as the regulator senses the Voltage between the black wire and the reg case 13.8 Volts Shall I go on?

It shouldn't come on unless the key is ON OOPPS, have they changed the schematic, shouldn't it show the ignition switch between lamp and battery + They added a note about it on LH side of fitting instructions I think it will still be ok with the Charge Warning Light switched by original wiring.

As Hubert says, it's important to know if the pump primes for 2 seconds when you turn the key ON Answer that and we can zero in a bit more.

Hubert Perhaps spikes was the wrong term to use, I used pulses earlier. 14 x every revolution the Voltage starts at zero, when it reaches about 13 Volts the current goes from zero and increases rapidly to form a sine wave so you end up with a lot of half wave pulses joined by flat spots. To get an average equaling the alternator output the sine wave peaks have to be much higher to fill in the valleys as it were. Heat is equal to the current squared x resistance Example, suppose your fuse base has 0.1 Ohms resistance. 5A x 5 x 0.1 Ohm is 2.5 Watts of heat 10 x 10 x 0.1 = 10 Watts of heat or 4 x as much for double the current 40 x 40 x 0.1 = 160 Watts of heat The effect of heat is accumulative, the joint will get worse and worse until most of the alternators power is being dissipated in heat. A bad joint also places more stress on the alternator as many a Goldwing owner will tell you. Take a look at the pictures in posts 16 & 28 and tell me how many Watts it took to do that

Ok so we know the light works so it should work with either regulator. The OEM Ducati Energia needs 12 Volts on the Black wire, this turns on the transistor that shorts the white wire to the chassis. It goes without saying the regulator case must also be connected to the chassis. (a short wire to a timing cover screw is what I always recommend) I have seen one regulator where this part of the regulator was not functioning but it doesn't stop it charging as it's a separate function. I concluded at some time the idiot light had shorted out overloading the circuit. No, the fuse holder should never melt, that was caused by a bad connection to the fuse pins, It's also a common problem with the 30 Amp fuse in the bikes own fusebox. The alternator puts out high current pulses, 14 x for ever revolution. I have never actually measured them but I wouldn't be suprised to see 40 Amps so it's quite unforgiving on a bad joint. My guess is the holder was never designed with the high current spikes in mind. Electrosport need your feedback, send them the picture. I'm sure their engineers will jump all over their factory in China. (I spend a lot of time in China, someone saved a cent buying those cheap fuseholders) I have noticed that the light on my ESR10 stays on at higher revs than a stock regulator, it just functions differently.

The fuel pumps are very reliable When you first turn the key on you should hear it running for about 2 seconds. Check for power on the two fuses that power up the ECU Relays, Check that you didn't leave a wire off the battery when you had it out. To test the Fuel Pump http://i1304.photobu...zpsb4c54183.jpg Unplug the ECU and remove relay 5 The 87 contact of the relay base is connected to the fuel pump. With a multimeter you will be able to measure the fuel pump resistance from 87 to the chassis, it should read 1 or 2 Ohms. Contact 30 of the relay base should have 12 Volts. If you take a piece of wire and plug it in the relay base the pump should run. (you have the ECU unplugged so the bike will not fire)

Welcome to the forum Posting from Italy, wow just 2 hours from the factory, are used Guzzis common over there? You said No noise from the pump so its the kill switch, or sidestand switch stopping the power to the ECU. If your bike has the electric petcock the fuse is a good place to check, it gets power just before the ECU You can bypass the sidestand relay by removing it and poke a wire in the 30 & 87 sockets. Be careful not to switch the fuel level sensor plug with the electric petcock plug, they should be colour coded. The schematics can be a bit daunting so I made this simplified sketch. http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/Kiwi_Roy/Start%20Problem/SimpleWiring_zpsb4c54183.jpg And here;s a link to Docc's throubleshooting chart. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16529 Bear in mind the Italian bikes may not be wired quite the same as they are for Nth. America

Some ESR 510s come without a fuse (at least mine did) but I wouldn't recommend that, the battery can easily supply 200 Amps if the RR ever shorted. The melted holder you found is the result of loose connections not too much current, I like to find easy faults like that. I don't think many appreciate how much current the alternator puts out, the average is not too high but the peaks are over 30 Amps. Just replace it with another from an auto parts store, find one with a good tight grip on the fuse. You're right the charge light should have warned you. Test the lamp by shorting the white wire to chassis with the key ON. The Charge light has 12 Volts on one side and the RR connects the other side to chassis. I assume it shorts to the green wire in the ESR510. I'm confident that once you replace the fuse holder it will charge fine. Just one other thing with the ESR510, it has a constant draw of about 0.3 milliamps so it's a good idea to pull the fuse if you store the bike over winter. (That's the reason why Guzzi have the OEM regulator downstream of the headlight relay but let's not go there)

Deleted Hey - what's that front wheel peeking in there? Looks interesting.

Sorry for the late reply, Mine is a generation before Bluetooth and I only communicat using an old laptop. You need to find someone local with a similar setup to yours.

I mean something proper like a lip seal, not just that wimpy dust seal.

That happened to me a while back, I was heading for a campout on a recently aquired EV. I heard a squawk from the front end, this is what I found. I rode back about 60 miles on just one front bearing. The shop I found had just one Chinese bearing. The next day I bought 4, it's not worth ruining a trip for a $7 bearing. The guy at the shop was surprised Guzzi don't have a proper seal to protect the bearing.

My greeney is at around 90k km, I had the forks apart but the seals don't leak so I just slapped them back together. I don't know any better so I'm quite happy with the ride.

Sounds like charging issues for sure. Is the headlight ON? It will not charge if the relay is not energized and the Start relay must be a 5 pin type. Without the engine running but key on you should see full battery Voltage on the black wire at regulator. Open circuit AC Voltage on the two alternator wires when you blip the throttle? If it's not over 50 take the cover off and inspect where the wires attach. Inspect the 30 Amp fuse and the alternator bullet connectors for signs of discolouration. Any sign of darker plastic is an indication of resistance causing heat. Add a ground wire from the regulator case to a timing cover screw, the case must be well grounded. The little one Luigi put there is not good enough, some V11s are badly grounded. Top up the battery with a charger to check it's ok. I sent you a PM Roy

Hi, My riding buddy has just purchased a 98 Triumph Tiger and is looking for both the Owners and Workshop Manuals Does anyone here have an owners in pdf format I can download for him. The local dealer has nothing in stock Thanks Roy

As Mznyc says The 150 mV with butterfly fully closed ensures that the TPS slider is not jambed at the end of travel Adjusting the idle screw to get 460 to 520 mV is just to give you a starting point for idle. My V11 is getting up there in miles so I adjust the LH throttle stop to get the idle point then wind in the RH stop by the same amount, this gives it a definite stop for both butterflys at idle otherwise it idles at a different speed each time I blip the throttle. To find the point where the idle screw is just touching the butterfly arm I use a strip of paper as a feeler gauge Proceedure Back off both idle screws till they are just making contact but not opening throttle Open air bleeds 1 turn Rotate TPS to get 150 mV ±5 Wind in LH throttle stop to get 460 mV then wind in RH stop by the same No of flats. Connect balance manometer Start bike Set Idle revs by moving both idle screws by equal amount Set idle balance using air bleeds Rev up and set balance at high revs using white knob on linkage On my EV which still has fairly tight linkages I have skipped the 460 mV step and just set the fast idle lever to give me the idle speed I want.

Actually the spine frame bikes have the best wiring IMHO, other Guzzis are a spaghetti factory of unfused wires. All the V11 circuits go through a fuse before heading off into the main looms. As others have pointed out there are no relays in the tail-light, it's on a separate set of ignition switch contacts along with the small lamp in the headlight and idiot lights so it can be left on with the ignition in Park position and key withdrawn. Does anyone ever use the Park lights? Update: Docc pointed out the idiot lights are not powered in Park position, just the gauge lamps.

Shirley Dave, this can't be the first time you balanced the carbs. Dave has a sweet LeMans

I don't think it's possible, to fully understand Luigi's wiring.

Have you checked the throttle balance, you say it revs better when you work it by hand. 10 ft of tube, a stick and some engine oil is all you need.

I just read 520 mV on a different thread. Here again nothing magic it just gives about the right amount of throttle go idle after setting fully closed 150mV

Ok, now I'm on tapatalk. Just when you thought you were safe. Sent from my shoe phone!

The TPS only reads 150 mV with the idle screws backed right off (throttle completely closed). Check it ramps smoothly as you open throttle. There's nothing magic about the # 150, it just makes sure it's not jambed at the end of travel. Isn't it around 450 at idle (I'm on the road without a PC) as a quick & dirty just set it there to try.

Pull the plug caps and measure the resistance from cap to chassis, they should read quite similar. Check the temperature sensor as someone already mentioned the RH one has a habit of breaking and falling out. It went from running fine to crap right? Sent from my shoe phone!

That's interesting Jim I tried to add it as a new forum by typing in various forms of v11lemans, I even tried an exact copy of what we see in the URL box, no joy. Perhaps I will try again when I get back in Canada. Today - Yippeeee! Roy