Kiwi_Roy

Euro 5 t0 6 seems very expensive. I got 4 for about CAD$ 35

Viewing the forum on a slow internet is quite frustrating. At the bottom of the screen it says for example 21 of 22 items complete for a minute or two, I suspect this is the graphics loading. I was wondering if there's an option to view just the text. Other forums are also on Tappatalk for viewing on a mobile device, if I do a Tappatalk search I don't see it. I understand it may not be available, has anyone been able to use it? It's not a big issue I will be back home on Tuesday. Don't get me wrong I love this forum and appreciate all the hard work that goes into making it available

More than half the threads in my rocker covers have been stripped due to over torqueing by a previous owner. The torque chart doesn't consider that the bolts might be threaded into soft Aluminium not metal of a similar strength to the bolt. The stainless steel inserts make a better than original job IMHO, I've been tempted to do the rest the same way.

On a recent trip I had a front wheel bearing go (98EV 40k miles), I heard a couple of squawk noises and stopped to check it out. Part of the cage was sticking out and it looked like some of the balls were missing. I stopped and bought a small can of oil and with a straw bodged up a makeshift oil can to dribble some oil in there and rode the bike back 60 miles to where I could buy a bearing. Besides a little wobble now and then it rode fine on one bearing. By the time I got to a shop there were just 6 balls left, no cage. I was surprised to see no evidence that the inner and outer races had contacted. I think I could have ridden it a long way on just one front bearing, I don't know about the rear though. $40 later I was back on the road but it spoiled my plans so with my tail between my legs I slunk off home. Next day I bought 4 bearings for $35 and replaced both fronts (I don't like Chinese parts on my Guzzis) The shop owner was surprised the Guzzi doesn't have a separate seal, only the bearings own seal. I plan to carry a spare bearing or two on any long trip from now on, it's too hard to find a replacement in a strange town. I guess what I'm trying to say is get a couple of bearings to have on hand, even a used one is better than none. I'm in China at the moment could someone please add the bearing part No Thanks Roy

The torque chart is nice but how to identify odd bolts like the button head screws. I was taught to tighten till they strip then back em off a bit Seriously, would anyone use a torque wrench on those? The only bolts I would torque would be like the bearing caps or perhaps head bolts. Locktite blue sounds like a good idea.

The front crossover is fugly IMO. I saw a lemans the other day it"s crossover was holding on by the last little bit of weld. Get rid of it

Can you verify by a plug chop that the bike is actually running richer? I think the ECU is supposed to take Voltage fluctuations into account. I'm wondering if in fact it is your fuel meter that's effected by the different Voltage. I don't know how you could verify that, a more direct feed perhaps. BTW, I'm in China for the next couple of weeks so I may get frozen off the forum.

Ok, if you want to measure temperature accurately you need to get the sensor in close contact, like right inside. With it extended by a piece of plastic it will be quite a bit cooler than the engine because the heat is radiated by the extension and also air cooled, i'm sure you have heard of wind chill. The air gap will probably not effect the reading but it will slow the response because air has a terrible heat transfer coefficient. Reading a bit cooler might not be a bad thing, it should I think result in a slightly richer mixture. http://www.physicsclassroom.com/class/thermalP/Lesson-1/Rates-of-Heat-Transfer

if you can get your laptop to talk to it that's half the battle, then you can just download a map of the forum from a similar bike. I am running a map Raz sent me

The starters are quite simple, have you pulled it apart? Are you certain it's the starter and not the wiring? Can you be a bit more specific with the symptoms It's probably a Valeo with a planetary gearbox, the magnets are known to fall off inside these. I have never tried to re-attach them but I'm sure it's possible. See how simple the electrical components are. Over here the Valeos are about $120. They are probably used on a bunch of small cars so a visit to an auto wrecker may be in order but be careful, some rotate in the opposite direction. I think it would be just a matter of reversing the brush wires. Take a read of Note 1. It should be wired with a direct connection from battery to fuse to start relay not through the ignition switch as is often the case with Guzzis. To test just the starter by itself touch a hot wire onto the small terminal of the solenoid. Make sure it's not just a bad battery connection or main ground by monitoring the Voltage at the solenoid terminal with a 12V lamp Just in case it's an old Bosch. (these can be identified by the large Philips screws that hold the fields in place) About the worst thing happens to these the insulation around the fields breaks down, It can easily be re-wraped with linen tape then varnished (we used to use Shelac but a product called Glyptol is even better.

The ESR510 is connected directly to the battery eliminating some problems The ESR515 is a direct replacement for the OEM Ducati Energia so it may suffer some of the same problems. As long as you have a standard headlight arrangement it should be ok If you add headlight relays you may find you lose some battery Voltage. I tried to get Electrosport to divulge how their regulator works but they are pretty cagey

What I do for a living is design measuring systems I'm staying right out of this

The ESR 510 uses the same pair of wires to deliver the Current as it does to measure the Voltage, If you extend the battery leads I suspect the extra Voltage drop will upset the Voltage a little. Could this account for the light coming on under 14 Volts? For this reason I mounted my ESR 510 right next to the battery and extended the yellow wires. Voltage drop in those is not measured by the regulator. Sure, the charge light stays on longer than it did with the Ducati Energia, It works in a different manner.

The paste is called Heat Sink Compound, it's used on electronic components to conduct the heat away, if it's not touching something it wont do anything. I think the idea is to run the thermistor a little cooler so it adds a little fuel, I wonder what the temperature difference ends up at? The active part of the sensor is a thermistor worth about $1, I still have a few if you need one.

I would think the ECU is sufficiently robust already, it's connected directly to the battery through it's own fuse, the only link to the rest of the bike is via the coil of the ECU relay. The battery is after all like a huge capacitor with very low impedance. Inside the ECU it will have a capacitor and diode not unlike your circuit.

The thick black line represents the chassis, the idea is to connect at the same point so you don't introduce noise, I think the components would work best as close to the dimmer module as practical. I belive Alfanatiker is thinking the dimmer module is somhow creating interference that's effecting the ECU, upsetting the mixture as you mention in the original post. Another idea would be to leave that point above the chassis but connect it to a seperate negative wire from the battery also picking up the wire from High Beam switch that says "to ground" Electrical noise can be very difficult at times.

Alfanatiker has a good point, I would think running the LED dimmer on its own fuse direct from the battery would take care of the spikes Weird schematic with the light dimmer, there must be a switch or relay there also. Battery - Fuse - Relay - Dimmer If you still have the regular headlight I would leave the LED off during daylight hours.

The reason the Volts go up is because the regulator measures the and sets the Voltage at 13.8 after the headlight relay. There's some voltage drop so the regulator boosts the battery up to make up for it. The more load you have on the headlight relay the more the regulator boosts the Voltage You can measure this drop directly, put your meter Red lead on battery + and the Black lead on the Black wire at the regulator (just pull the double connector apart enough to get the meter lead on) Loads that don't go through the headlight relay e.g. lights with their own dedicated relay will not effect the battery Voltage. As for the bad running I would first of all clean the ignition switch contacts it may be the Voltage drop through there causing the ECU to reset.

While you are in the mood make sure the main battery ground is nice and tight, several bikes I know of have smoked the main loom because this became loose and starter current found it's way back through the small wire from regulator to negative terminal. I hesitate to remove this wire in case it creates a different problem.

Yes you must have a 5 pin in the start relay position, it's best to use 5 pins in all slots that way they are inter-changable.

Next time it surges stop and flick the ignition switch a few times, if it behaves differently it's the switch needs cleaning. It's quite surprising how a dirty switch can effect the smooth running. Your bike is at the right age for it to be a problem.

I went that route with my V11 Sport, did away with the troublesome speedo cable at the same time, A pair of Speedhut gauges just a tad over $300. http://www.speedhut.com/ There's a thread here somewhere http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18588

Check the battery Voltage while it is cranking. Also make sure there is very little Voltage between the negative terminal and chasis while it is cranking.

Sorry to keep harping on Did you check the sensors, coils and injectors using the drawing I posted on the earlier thread? Look closely at the relay sockets 4 & 5, make sure the pins are griping firmly and none are pushed back. Swap these 2 relays for a different pair say 1 & 2. Position 1 is a good spot to test a relay, it gets a real workout picking up the start solenoid. The 30 position of 4 & 5 sockets is direct from the battery via a fuse perhaps check from battery + to 30 (with relay out) it should only be a fraction of an Ohm say 0.2 The ECU wiring, sensors, coils etc are really a separate part of the bike, it's very robust wiring and as long as it gets 12 Volts to the coil of the ECU relay the bike will run intermittent Voltage at that point it will run like crap because the ECU is constantly getting confused and having to reset. This is why I suggested a (temporary) jumper to the petcock fuse alternately a small lamp there will prove the steady supply of 12 Volts.

I have some pictures If you can get the back cover off you should have be able to grab the little brass inserts with a pair of needle nose pliers while you undo the allen screws If it's getting the back cover off the thread is part of the gauge, if it's turning you will have to sacrifice the nut, split it with a junior hacksaw perhaps, Ace Hardware have replacement nuts Consider using LEDs and you will never have to replace lamps again, they are brighter also. http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/Kiwi_Roy/slideshow/Dash Note: the slideshow is a combination of two relamp projects. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/wedge-bulbs/filter/Base,Miniature_Wedge,1,3995: The 194 1 LED (8 down) is my favourite, it's an AC lamp so you don't have to worry about getting the polarity right, just make sure the lamp colour is the same as the filter.