Kiwi_Roy

Yes, original yellow with a black stripe from the ECU, when you first initialize the tach you select how many pulses/rev to use. The red with black stripe comes from the headlight relay, if you use that to power the gauges they go through their startup routine every time you crank which is a bit annoying so I tapped into the wire direct from the ignition switch. Edit- In hindsight I should have powered the electronics up from the yellow wire that was used to power up the Veglia gauge lights, it seems to be on with the key. The tach has another small quirk, because it's a stepper motor it needs power to drive back to zero. When you turn off the key it stays up scale (the speedo would do the same if you turned off the key at speed. I know how to fix that but it's not annoying me. If you stop with the kill switch it drives down

I too wondered what to do with the line going to the airbox. I ended up running it down past the gearbox on the LH side and finished it off with a K&N crankcase breather. It gets a little black with oil but I have never seen a drip. I think these bikes will spit out oil if they are too full but don't go near the low mark or the pressure drops to zero on acceleration.

Your Dad left you a serious bike there, one you will grow to love. Barely run in at 9,000. How about posting a few pictures. A shot of under the seat would be good. so we can see if all the wires are in place. While you're there measure the battery Voltage before and after starting, The Voltage should increase with revs from idle. Check the engine oil level with the bike standing straight up, not on the side stand.

The Speedhut gauges are a good replacement for the troublesome Veglias, about $300 for a pair A word of caution, they make many different types, you need 3-3/8" and be sure to let them know it's for a bike and they will add silicone to the glass. The reset button is normally through the glass but they have an option of adding a jack at the rear as you can see below. This jack is used to configure the tach for no of cylinders, calibrate the speedo and trip reset. Avoid Canbus type, that's a communication bus for modern autos. They also make GPS speedos but I prefer the old school pulse input I wanted a look somewhat similar to the OEM Veglia. There was no room for the large nut that normally holds the gauge, in fact it's a tight fit in the back cover so I attached a central bolt that will also serve to keep the back secured. The anodized extrusion was laying around otherwise a short length of flat bar threaded to take a stud would do equally well. JB Weld is your friend. The Speedhuts are only 1' deep so I sliced 3/4" out of the rear cover using a strip of masking tape as a guide. At the same time shaving off all the bumps and blocking off all the spare holes with bondo. I had to reduce the depth of the lamp fitting in the process. This worked out well as I wanted to upgrade to LED lamps anyway. The lamps are simply glued into the fitting with the wires soldered directly to the contacts, I expect the LEDs to outlast me. Note the original incandescent soldered in parallel with the low fuel light, this gives the fuel level sensor the current it needs to warm up when uncovered. Forceps are worth their weight in gold when soldering the wires. I like to use the 194 miniature wedge base lamps from www.superbrightleds.com They work on AC so polarity is not an issue. A quick test. I know, I should have had them add the Guzzi logo. I love the way the Speedhut numbers glow in the dark. You have a choice of 5 glow colours. The speedo operates on any sort of a pulse, I quote "The Speedometer is designed to work with any wave/pulse form from 1 volt - 100 volts. Pulses per mile from 500 - 250,000" I made a simple sensor from a magnet and a reed switch, the case is made from aluminum sheet glued to the nut off an old cable. The switch is fastened to the outside sensing the field through the aluminum. There are no wearing parts to worry about because the rotating magnet is supported by the gearbox shaft. To calibrate press Start, drive two miles (4 km) then press End, Speedhut takes care of the rest. A runners GPS is perfect for measuring the distance.

My carbon fiber Mistrals came with "For Off Road Use Only" labels riveted on, a Canadian requirement but Gord at Valley Yamaha disappeared into the shop and came out with a nice pair of "V11 Sport" badges that were sized to replace those.

The Guzzi ECU circuit is pretty robust but loss of power for a split second will upset it no end, The ECU is connected to the rest of the bike by just one wire. To check for loss of power wire a small lamp to the petcock fuse. Any flicker of the lamp signifies loss of power. I like to use a small 12V LED for this taped to the bars.

Don;t forget the sidestand switch, it could be bouncing at that rev range with vibration. That's all I can add

I think most guys would have given up at that point. What do you think may have caused it? Good to see those Joe Kenny head guards went to a good home

With the plastic tank there's not much to block the filter, a metal tank like my 98 EV however rusts when water runs in from the recessed cap. It plugged right off on the way back to BC from Denver shortly after I bought it. I gave it a backflush, you should have seen the crap that came out, microscopic particles like polishing rouge.

I found several articles refering to 100 liters per hour http://www.mgnoc.com/article_external_guzzi_fuel_pumps.html There is aa good document referring to the early Webber ECU/fuel injection systems, I'm away from my files at the moment I believe the pumps are identical. I wouldn't mess with the pump /filter order. As it is if the filter plugs off the fuel pump is able to relieve excess pressure through it's internal relief valve, I'm not sure what would happen if it lost suction pressure

If it behaves the same on Left or right it must be something both sides have in common, as others say the flasher or the switch Do both front and rear lamps come on at full brightness? Something else to check I think you would get those symptoms also if the Voltage at the flasher was very low due to some resistance in the feed You should be able to measure ~12 Volts on one pin of the flasher to chassis with them on (lamps glowing), if not check at the fuse F7 on this schematic (yours may be different) The key is to measure the Volts while the circuit is under load (lamps on) it will always read 12 V at no load no matter how high the resistance is. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif If it's low there, say less than 11 it could be a dirty ignition switch, flick it a few times see if it improves.

Sorry, it's so long since I bought them I won't be able to find a record. I bought the straight ones, slight angle would sit better. In my picture here I have them extended by using the existing intake rubbers as velocity stacks, I think it ran a little better that way. I have since taken these off and have them straight on the throttle body. The red cloth covers looked nice for about a year, cheap enough to replace if you wanted to.

Time for a new multimeter I think, it doesn't have to be an expensive one, $10 - $20 for a digital.

Docc, perhaps you are right, that's where it was on mine, I just assumed mine was normal. I know of at least 3 bikes that went into meltdown mode because the main ground worked loose. Here is one, not mine - you can't quite see where the main ground is going to because it's hidden by the main loom but it looks like it could well end up under the seat lock screw. The wire with no insulation is the black wire from regulator case to battery negative. Under the seat release is neat and tidy, out of sight out of mind, until this happens.

The first thing to do is make sure the battery is really discharged and not just disconnected. The main ground on the spine framed bikes is clamped behind the seat release lock this often works loose. Some will argue but I say remove from there and put under the adjacent gearbox bolt. Clean and Vaseline the battery terminals. Please point us to the exact model Ricks regulator you purchased i.e. a link to their page http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

Did you look at the M-Unit Roy? I was curious to hear what you think of its capabilities. The basic unit certainly looks like it would tidy things however you still need wires from the unit to the headlight H/L filaments It would probably work best with a pre FI bike, the diagrams seem to point that way. http://motogadget.com/media/downloads/plan/fahrzeugschaltplan_en.pdf The m-Unit V.2 is the 'electrical heart' of the motorbike. All switching operations are completely digitally controlled by a microprocessor and the latest solid-state technology - completely without mechanical relays, taking vehicle electrical systems to a new level! From that I gather the switching is done by transistors. I wonder what the current rating is, your Valeo starter solenoid will draw 50 Amps for a split second. I'm not sure you save a lot of wiring, with the M Button, you still have to connect all the switches and all the loads, it just saves the wires in between You could make your own relay based system and connect the switches to relays with tiny wires. If you had a problem on the road it might be hard to troubleshoot although it has LEDs on each input and output. http://motogadget.com/media/downloads/plan/fahrzeugschaltplan_mbutton_en.pdf Realy, it's not doing a lot more than the relays on your Guzzi are doing already, There accessories certainly look nice but as SP838 says I wouldn't use one unless I was starting from scratch.

The Motogadget seems to be in a metal case, the Speedhut is plastic, not that you see it once installed. The big plus for Speedhut is all the options available, you can configure the look any way you like and include your own graphic For a bike ask them to seal the glass and put the reset button at the back. Just tad over $300 for the pair. I personally wouldn't go for with the GPS model speedo, all you need is a pulse.

It looks marginally better than Speedhut at several times the price. Same idea, stepper motor drive.

I put the straight K&Ns on mine as you can see. I think the ones with a slight angle would have been better

I sent you a sensor but in the meantime you could just go to Radio Shack and get a normal resistor roughly equivalent to the air temperature 2.2k Ohm ~ 30 degrees C would be close enough to try, I doubt the air temperature is that critical For yours to read so low I think it must have some sort of short, I'm not sure what action the ECU would take if it thinks the engine is that hot. You weren't reading it with the ECU plugged in by any chance? When I put pods on my bike I figured it would be too hot under the tank so I relocated the sensor up by the headstock in the cool air.

no, the pump runs continuous (once running) and had a regulator to maintain pressure, extra fuel is pumped back into the tank. Just to add to that, if anything blocks the path to the regulator e.g. a dirty filter the pump pressure will build up to about 60 psi then relieve back internally. I believe on your bike the regulator is fitted under the RH side of the tank, the pressure in that hose is 45 psi set by the regulator from memory, it's the same pressure the injectors see. To measure the pressure you have to tee in at that point. It's unlikely the regulator has failed but if you pull the hose off and direct it into a bottle you should see a full pipe, not a dribble while the pump primes. I don't understand how your new filter could be blocked but the symptoms, dying at higher revs and fuel pump noise seems familiar, it will only take a minute to verify the flow. A word of caution, when you take the hose off some fuel will squirt out because the system normally holds a bit of pressure. No, not the fuel pump fuse, the electric petcock fuse, it is on the same wire that powers up the ECU relay, the power must remain on at that point or it will play havoc with the ECU. It's quite common to have a dirty switch drop it out. Yes any small lamp will do although I prefer a 12V LED, I have one that fits inside the pivot point for the levers I just sent you a PM

The ECU relay might be dropping out because of a bad connection/contact. I encourage guys to add a light to the wire feeding the relay so they can watch for it dropping. A convenient spot to pick this up is the petcock fuse, a little lamp between there and chassis taped to the bars is all you need. It should never so much as flicker. Weird pump sound, could it be the internal relief lifting i.e. blockage going forward, the pressure goes from 45 to over 60 psi and the fuel flows back thru the hollow pump shaft. Here is the full chart for thermistor Why was it so hot or were you measuring the oil temperature, air temperature should read over 1000 Ohms = 50°C 30 Ohms is in the stratisphere (ok, I can't spell)

I mentioned that your air temperature reading seemed very high 30 odd Ohms about 140 °C, is it in a cool air stream? I would also check that you are not loosing Voltage to the ECU relay but that usually causes the bike to miss and fart Dirty ignition switch or sidestand switch Check you are getting a full pipe flow back to the regulator, just slip the hose off and put it in a bottle while the bike primes Is the pump extra noisy

No, 100 quid is about $200 Canadian Pesos

Yea, the speak the Queens English over there Actually I was thinking customs etc, here I can ship stuff to Blaine and pick up, if I shipped a pair of gauges direct to Canada I would likely pay $100 in customs and brokerage fees.