Kiwi_Roy

How did you instal the ESR510 In the usual spot Did you extend the battery wires or the two yellows? Did your new reg. come with a fuse? http://www.electrosport.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=esr510 Take a look at this thread and keep a close eye on the bullet connectors http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18194

In my opinion on the V11 Sport with a plastic tank the filter should outlast the bike, All it needs is a backflush now and then. On bikes with steel tanks the filter will plug off with rust but again a backflush will remove most of it.

I would find a handy bolt on the engine or gearbox to ground it too, the seat lock location is stupid IMHO. Aluminium is a better conductor than steel any day of the week Also the ground from the regulator or headlight area should not run directly to the battery terminal, they should also terminate on the engine or gearbox separate from the main ground. All current should run back to negative through the main ground It's ok for the ECU to be wired back to the battery because it's not grounded elsewhere. As one owner found out recently it's not a good idea to have an alternate path for the starter motor return. I know this is not what's shown on the schematics.

I paid just over $300 for a pair of Speedhuts Some riders have experienced interference problems with the GPS antenna The nice thing about the pulse input speedo is you have so many options to trigger it all you need is a speed related pulse from some sort of pickup, I made a simple reed switch sensor from scrap, a proximity sensor picking up the drive shaft bolts, a pushbike sensor on a spoke, the options are unlimited. If you want a clock and altimeter the GPS type gives you those and a few other options. Don't forget to tell them it's for a bike, add a logo and have them match the odometer reading to your failed Veglia If you power the tacho from the normal black/red wire it will stay up scale when you turn the bike off, it needs power for a second to motor back down. Check out the all black ones on the other forum, they really look sharp IMHO http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=65119.0 Near the bottom of page 1

Ok, I just did a test on the ECU and fuel pump While priming the load is 3.82 Amps After the pump stops the current drops to 190 mA So from simple subtraction the pump is drawing just a tad over 3.6 Amps Simulating a blocked filter is easy, all you have to do is pinch off the return to the tank, this forces the pump to relieve internally as it does with a blocked filter. The current with a complete blockage rises to ~ 7.5 Amps, more than double the normal. A couple of times the pump actually stalled drawing just over 8 Amps In Watts Normal 3.6 x 12 = 36 Watts Blocked 7.31 x 12 = 87.72 Watts

There might be something in it, the pump sure makes a racket. It develops a lot more pressure and relieves through an internal relief valve. When I get a chance I will simulate a plugged filter and take a reading.

I'm pretty sure some flashers work the other way with the contact normally closed, the current heats up a strip a few seconds later the contact opens. A clue for this type would be a low resistance between the two pins.

Who mentioned anything about stripping the harness? Felix42o asked a question, I simply provided a way of figuring out what might be causing the delay that's annoying him. Felix, I think this explains your flasher http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turn-signal2.htm

A simple test. Lift the seat and pull the flasher, by the battery I think. Jumper the socket with a short piece of wire. Turn on the key then try left and right flashers, they should come on with no delay If there is a delay it would point to the switch or a wiring fault. If there is no delay it points to the flasher itself. I'm guessing there are Normally open flashers that heat up and close to turn on the lights and Normally Closed flashers that heat up to turn the lights off Measure the resistance between the two pins and get back to us.

Do you have the normal 2 pin flasher relay? Do you have the standard filament lamps or LEDs? The flasher wiring is so simple, not much to go wrong. As soon as you select Left or Right the lamp should light, after a delay it will go off then back on. If someone installed a 3 pin electronic type it might be flashing all the time with no lamps connected.

No, you still want the neutral switch for the neutral light

You are the first one to notice.

sp838, When I spoke to Speedhut they said to mention it was for a motorbike and ask for the glass to be sealed. The normal gauge comes with a reset button thru the glass but you can ask for that at rear, it comes with a button and a small headphone like plug. I have never worried about mine getting wet, I live in Pacific NW. The GPS type are too expensive IMHO, the pulse input speedos are easy to activate of any old bolt or whatever is spinning, dead easy to calibrate and I like that Speedhut will set the odometer to match the old Veglia odo. I made my own sensor from a magnet and reed switch. http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/Kiwi_Roy/Guzzi%20Dash/CIMG5021_zps0068bc59.jpg SpeedHut Try out the customize features you will love it. Add a Guzzi eagle graphic (you would need to send them that) Besides, they have a warantee the 3-3/8" size is what you need to fit the existing dash. Docc, Yes, when you turn off the key because the movement is a stepper motor it will stay put, turn the key on again it will return to zero Yes the earth is not so big around up here, it takes less hours to rotate, very observant of you.

Docc, you are correct, I need to be more careful with the terminology, Actually the easiest way to bypass the switch is remove the Sidestand (Neutral) relay and wrap a strand of bare wire around the 30 & 87 pins then replace it in the socket. For other model Guzzis with a different switch wrap the wire around 30, 87 & 87A in a figure 8 fashion. Another one that gets confused is Chassis, Frame, Ground, Earth, Negative I finally gave up on my sidestand switch, it's been frying away for months. I have 3 other guzzis without a switch.

My intake manifolds just have a 6mm screw and washer, when you do a balance you can use a couple of 6mm grease nipples with the ball bearing and spring removed to attach your home built manometer. The flasher relay on mine is just beside the positive battery terminal but it is through a fuse. You can either short out the side-stand switch or remove the relay and short pins 30 to 87. Sounds like Mickey Mouse has been in there for sure.

A bridge rectifier they sell on line http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12678415 The advantage is it's insulated from ground so it can be bolted to the frame Really though if you have a diode gone a better solution is a new regulator, I went after market with an Electrosport ESR510 http://www.electrosport.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=ESR510 The one that arrived is a little different than shown, no fuse and I had to extend the wires. It gets away from the headlight relay reference problem and has it's own ground.

Just slather the connectors in petroleum jelly aka Vaseline, it will repel the water

As AndyH says, they are an ISO standard Micro-relay, made by many manufacturers Unlike most other guzzis these bikes need a full complement of relays to operate. The middle relay called the sidestand relay but is actually the Neutral relay can be removed and replaced by a short length of wire stuffed in the socket to short out pins 30-87. The headlight must be operational for the charging system to work which requires the first two, Start & Headlight relays. The rear two relays are connected with the ECU, they are essential. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif Faced with a bike that refuses to start first thing I do is listen for the fuel pump when I turn on the key Does it crank, if so the power is getting all the way past the Ignition switch, Sidestand (Neutral) switch and Run (Kill) switch Give all the relays a little wiggle, this scrubs up the pins in the base, perhaps swap the relays from position 1 & 2 for 4 & 5 Heres a simple schematic I did years ago, it applies the early FI models, the Lemans as well as V11 Sport. http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/Kiwi_Roy/009V11SimpleWiring_zps707139d0.jpg It's not easy to tell if a relays working, they just make a quiet click and which one is clicking? The first project on my V11 Sport was to add a light to each relay, it takes all the guesswork out of it. http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/Kiwi_Roy/Relay%20LEDs/CIMG2373_zps884b0c4d.jpg I have been touting this idea for years but I don't think anyone has followed suit

Yes it is sort of toasted isn't it. I doubt you will ever get the fuse-holder to grip after that you need to replace all the components. Perhaps just use a couple of spade connectors on a new fuse then tape it up.

While we are talking TPS, they are not a simple resistor as the drawings show. I suspect there is another fixed resistor in parallel. Perhaps someone with a dud could pull it apart.

Just go look for another cheap one with the diode test function and a 10 Amp DC range If you want a high quality Nth American meter Fluke make a good one, I have a couple I don't know what the modern equivalent of model 23 would be, that's a good all round meter. Update: There's a bewildering range of Flukes at big$ something like a 15B would be nice for less than $100 Even $100 is too much IMHO just go out and find another $10 meter or splurge and spend $20 DC Amp range up to 10 Millivolt range (with a shunt made from a length of wire you can measure 200 Amps) Ohms AC & DC Voltage up to 200 Diode Test A backlit display is nice A buzzer for continuity testing Leads that feel like they might last Size is important if you want to carry it on the bike Whenever I see a meter for less than $20 if it has a good feel to it I buy it

"The plastic around one of the legs is a little wavy" Typical overheating, W=I squared R (Heat = Current squared x Resistance) The clips need to be tighter. Ah, you did run the extra ground like we suggested?

If the plastics discloured or melted it's due to the clip not gripping the fuse tight enough, it happened to mine also. Although it only passes an average of about 10 Amps the current peaks are around 30 Heat (Watts) = Current squared x Resistance Just clean the contacts with some emery paper and try to bend them to get more tension.

Czakky, can we go over the symptoms again, there'd so much happened I have lost the plot. When you turn the key on, does the pump prime? Anything unusual?

I swear by Vaseline but I've only been using it for 50 years so the jury is still out. It doesn't conduct but it keeps air and water away from the metal so it doesn't corrode. Or in the case of battery posts, oxidize, Lead Oxide is also a good insulator. Actually we were taught as apprentices to use it on large drum controllers where it acts as a lubricant to prevent wear. Good enough for a baby's bum, good enough for your Guzzi