Kiwi_Roy

Or ignition switch They would find it very helpful to monitor the status of the safety circuit with a small lamp at component 57, or Fuse 8 if its wired for an electric petcock. If the light flickers there's a good chance it's the stand switch as fotoguzzi suggested, my bike showed similar symptoms until I cleaned the ignition switch, the kill switch is also in there http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif

Roy, How could those paths be verified? Remove the start relay and measure for voltage in the relay base at the large top terminal (30) to the chassis It should be there even with the key OFF. If it only comes on with the key ON it's through the switch. I'm not saying it won't work through the switch if the contacts are nice and clean, but it only takes a little resistance there and it's seriously compromised.

This got me thinking, where do you measure the rim, inside the bead or outside or is the measurement taken across the tire?

Make sure the start relay is not powered through the ignition switch, The solenoid draws over 40 amps for a split second and the resistance through the switch restricts it too much. My 2001 came standard with the solenoid powered straight from the battery through a fuse.

I have Michelin Road pilot IIs, the dealer talked me into putting one size larger on the rear. I can't say I'm happy with the rear tire, it's ok in the dry but on a wet road it locks up and skitters with the slightest application of rear brake.

Ok, I missed that it broke at the solder joint. that's another really weak point because the wire has less strength without the support of the insulation. It's good for another 14 years now you re-enforced it

Hi Gio, When I was an apprentice electrician on the railways back in the 60s we were taught to use petroleum jelly aka Vaseline on the large drum controllers of overhead cranes, it doesn't help the electrical contact but it stops them wearing. After a few years in the bike switches it goes hard and tends to hold the contacts apart, but without it the contacts would soon wear away. You can verify it's going hard by measuring the contact resistance, if it's different each time you operate the switch that's a symptom. As a grease it's also ok for the mechanical parts We were also taught to put it on the terminal posts of large traction batteries, there it provides a film that prevents the oxygen from attacking the lead to form lead oxide which is an insulator. I would be very surprised to find that di-electric grease is a conductor, even if it is it can't possibly be better than metal to metal contact. The way your wire broke looks typical of a wire bending in one spot, copper work hardens which makes it brittle, the others are probably on the way out also, you would be better off to replace them all, perhaps with a splice under the tank since it's not easy to change the connector. Make sure the wires don't bend in one spot especially where they are soldered to the switch, a gentle twisting along several inches is what you need.

Vaseline for the electrical contacts. It acts as a lubricant to prevent wear and also prevents corrosion. Use it on battery terminals to prevent the lead oxide forming. Use it on wires in wet areas to prevent the copper oxidizing. Use it on the baby's bum to prevent nappy rash. And whatever else springs to mind. I swear by the stuff, don't try to tell me dielectric grease is better, it is more expensive.

From memory you press in a couple of clips, It helps to have three hands. Holding the switch in a vice will help. I don't like to use any solvents on the internals just wipe out the old grease, you will find it has gone quite hard. Replace with fresh Vaseline. The idea of having two switches one is for the parking light, really you could join the two outputs together if you can't get the other contact to make.

Personally I don't see the point in the GPS version, I went with the pulse input for the pair I paid just over $300 The cup will require some work, stopping up all the redundant holes. Looking again at the fixing arrangement you would have to shave a lot off the fixing nut (outside diameter), but it's such a soft plastic 5 minutes with a file is all it would take. You need some sort of pulse input device, something from the auto wreckers or if you are cheap like me make one. Speedhut also sell the sensors http://www.speedhut.com/shop/c/31:1/Sensors/ Perhaps the G-SNDR-11 in the old cable drive or G-SNDR-13 picking up something on the driveshaft

Yes the Veglia speedo is 80 mm in diameter but the hole in dash is 85mm, the difference is made up by the rubber grommet. The Speedhut gauge is 85mm so it will fit without needing the grommet. The Speedhut gauges are only 1" deep so no problem there. The gauges are held in by a spin on nut, I had to file the grips off the nut to fit my new panel but it may be ok with the original, either way not a big deal.

I would use it while the weather is still cool and perhaps change when things warm up. After sitting so long the metals will have dropped out to the bottom so be sure to shake the bottles. Yes to the hose clamp, it gives you peace of mind to know the filter is not unwinding as you ride down the road.

If you have a multimeter measure the voltage from the battery Negative post (not the lug attached to it, right on the lead post(scrape to show bare metal)) to the chassis as you press the start button, it should stay at zero. A significant voltage indicates a bad ground connection. (if you don't have a multimeter a 12V test light will be fine) BTW the ground connects behind the seat release lock. It's also possible you have a bad connection at the battery, scrape the terminals and apply some Vaseline. I'm not sure exactly why the lights switch but I think it's related to ground problem. I suspect when you press start the battery negative post is going from zero to a few Volts negative. Also check the Voltage at the small wire connecting to the starter solenoid with and without it connected while you press start. Make sure the bike is in Neutral then with the key Off jumper between the small solenoid terminal and the large one connected to the battery this will exercise the starter. (Best to connect a short wire with spade terminal to the solenoid then touch the other end on the large hot post) If it doesn't crank then do the same with the multimeter connected between the large hot terminal and chassis. It's very strange that the ECU doesn't fire up, check the battery polarity and ground on the ECU case, Moto Guzzi - making Electricians out of riders for 90 years

I believe you have to remove the bolts from the coupling, it's not enough to just loosen them, the gearbox shaft has an indent. Be very careful to line up the indent when you re-assemble it otherwise the threads will get chewed off the bolts. At least that's the way it is on my V11 Sport.

If you look at the drawing I posted 4 from the top the ignition switch splits 2 ways Fuse 6&7 are alive with the switch on A jumper wire between one of these and fuse 8 bypasses the sidestand etc. Remove relay 3 and wrap a small bare wire around the 2 large pins then re-insert it to do a quick get you home fix around the neutral side-stand circuit A wire stuffed into the relay socket works the same. The single best thing I did to my bike was add LEDs to the relays so I can see what their staus is.

They will also add a graphic if you provide one Go to their site and try the customize options Here/s one with turn signal and high beam options to start with. http://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GRM338-SPEEDO-01T/1/Speedometer-Gauge-200km-h-Metric-programable--(w--turn-signal-and-high-beam) I'm not quite sure how to attach a graphic under the LOGO / TEXT button The final step in the process they send you a proof before assembly.

Some bikes have the ground behind the seat release key, not a very good spot.

I suspect you may have a bad ground, pull the seat release lock off, it's connected there. It's normal for the battery light to turn off when you press the start button because the headlight relay (where the regulator gets it's power from) is interlocked to the start relay. This tells me that you have power through the safety circuit. The oil light should be on with the key on but the oil pressure switches are notoriously un-reliable, you can check the lamp by shorting the switch wire to chassis. Does the bike crank over when you press start? If not do you hear the relay click? Does the fuel pump cycle for 2 seconds when you turn on the key? This let's you know the ECU is getting powered up.

Very nice. Can you give details of that sending unit? It is much cleaner than the way I hacked up a GM unit. I had an old pushbike sensor, a reed switch. The magnet is JBW onto a SS bolt head filed square to fit the gearbox cog then wrapped it in aluminium. puts out ~1700 pulses per km I think an auto sensor like yours is probably a better way to go but i like to do things the hard way Splendid job.The tacho and speedo look great but I'm not keen on the mounting plate with additional gauges. What / who is 'nosail' ? I needed somewhere to mount the oil gauge and fuel meter, it looks a bit better in person, I should have shown the side view. Nosail is Rick, a member on here but more so on http://stradavarious.ca/

Some time back I mentioned that i was changing out the speedo on my bike, I was having trouble carving out the holes for the gauges, Nosail to the rescue. I bought new gauges from Speedhut made in USA www.speedhut.com These gauges were configured by me, font, colour, text, pointer style/colour and preset oddo reading. I went for the reset button at the rear, it plugs in so you can locate it wherever you like. I elected to go with a pulse input rather than their GPS version, I adapted the old cable drive to put out pulses with a magnet and reed switch, it put's out about 2 pulses per meter, all I need to do now is calibrate it by riding 4 kM (measured against a GPS) and it's done. All in all dealing with Speedhut was a pleasant experience. A few pictures http://s1304.beta.photobucket.com/user/Kiwi_Roy/story/57115# [edit: "Installing Speedhut Gauges": http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19038]

While you have the switch off pull it apart and wipe the old grease out of the contacts, replace with some fresh petroleum jelly aka Vaseline. Copper work hardens so try to arrange it so you get a gentle twisting rather than bending all at one spot. On my bike the switch block is held in place with a couple of allen head screws so I guess I have to thank the previous owner for making it easy

The relays are pretty reliable but I found the base tends to build up some resistance after sitting for a while, it's enough just to pull and re-insert to get the connection back, it scrapes the pins a bit. Check out this flow chart Docc posted just a different way of looking at it. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16529

As Docc says it's the electric petcock connector Actually that connector or it[s Fuse 8 is a good point to tell if the power is getting through the safety circuit, (the wiring to the left) It's powered up at the same time as the ECU relay R4

I sent you a PM with my simple schematic, the sight wouldn't allow it to be posted here. You need to figure out why the safety circuit is not picking up the ECU relays 4 & 5 It won't crank over right, are you holding the clutch in (switch on the lever) Try with sidestand up / down. Actually if you don't hear the pump power is not going to reach the start button Fuse 4, Ignition switch, sidestand relay, kill switch, ECU relay Start button, clutch switch, start relay is the order OK I figured out the link http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/Kiwi_Roy/1986_009_zpsc1439df3.jpg

Measure before AND after removing lock nuts.You want them to retain the same place after re-assembling A Jaap and Paul say.I removed wheel and swing arm and lifted the rear from the sub frame with an overhead lift,cheapo from Harbor Freight. Suppose it was not in the right place to begin with? I just set it with about the same number of threads missing on both sides.