Kiwi_Roy

Konstantin, Check your personal messages, I sent you the information Joe sent me. Good Luck Roy

Fast forward a year, time to change the oil again so I go into the dealer to get some supplies. "Sorry I am right out of Agip in the 1 Liter bottles but if you bring in a jug I will fill it out of our bulk container, it's cheaper that way" Being the cheap bastard I am I thought "that's a good idea" but hang on a minute, what happens to the oil in bulk, wouldn't all the good stuff settle on the bottom, I'm willing to bet they don't agitate the drum. See the response I got from Agip when I enquired about the sludge

That is terrific, you mean to tell me I should have held off on the MyECU I bought because I hate black boxes You are a hero. Roy

Jumpering the two large terminals will make the motor spin but it will not cause the gear to engage, Jumper to the small terminal will engage the starter and crank. Yes the start circuit fuse will blow if you have a bad solenoid contact OR loose terminal in the heavy wire, this is because until the contact makes the solenoid draws about 50 Amps but it won't happen unless you push Go. In your original post you said the motor cut out when you were slowing down i.e. you were not using the starter at the time. The idea of using a lamp in place of the fuse is to limit the available current so there is no possibility of letting out the magic smoke. If the light is dim or off there is no short, if it's at full brightness chances are the short is in place, wiggle the wires and soon you may find a point where the lamp flickers. I use an old headlamp bulb for this, it limits the current to about 5 Amps. You didn't by any chance accidentally connect positive to the ECU case while disconnecting the battery did you? Someone else did that and caused a short in the loom when the tiny ground wire became red hot and melted through adjacent wires. Pull the tank off, you probably pinched something when you put the airbox back, electric petcock wires perhaps Which fuse blows, numbered from the front (what is the symbol?) It's always harder to find an intermittent fault, just systematically go step by step. Does the fuse blow before or after I turn the key on? Turn off the kill switch, Unplug the sidestand relay, unplug fuse 8 (petcock) With a new fuse when I turn the key on do the idiot lights turn on Replace the sidestand relay Turn on the kill switch. At some point if the fuse blows you can isolate the problem between two points. Don't forget to examine the wires where they solder to the ignition switch, my friends unmolested LeMans had a wire break off there where it was flexing, it didn't short but his tail light stopped working.

You need to tell us what bike/year you have It's a short circuit for sure, perhaps under the tank, has a mouse been chewing on the wires (oh, I see Docc mentioned that already)? Did you disconnect something before you parked it and forget to re-connect it? I have seen the wires break off where they are soldered to the ignition switch, have a look up there. It's hard to find a short by blowing fuses, it happens so quick. If you take a lamp and put it in place of the fuse then wiggle all the wiring the lamp will light full brightness when the short is in place, an old headlamp bulb is great for this because it passes enough current to power up the circuit, much more visual than trying to find a short with a digital multimeter. Roy

My ECU was fins down also, I believe some have had trouble with the seat mashing the connector, What are those 2 black canisters sitting in the tool tray?

I may be wrong but I believe the only purpose of the resistor is to minimize Radio / TV interference, I don't think it effects performance. No doubt someone will correct me if i'm wrong.

The Velos are beautiful

First off, nice pair of classics you have listed there. A friend here in BC has a couple of old Velos as well, also a Guzzi owner. I have K&Ns on my V11, when I first put them on I noticed a flat spot at mid range so I reasoned that the throttle body intake rubbers were acting as a velocity stack. When I extended the filter with the intake rubber, sure enough the flat spot dissappeared. This would also get them back behind the side covers. I chose to leave my covers off exposing the nice rear shock. There's a large cable loom wrapped around the seat release key, that can be re-located under the tank where the airbox was. Then you just have to figure out what to do with the breather and air temperature sensor from the airbox. I don't recall it effected the fueling but I have an after market MyECU Sorry I don't recall the part No but I remember thinking ones with a slight angle might have fitted better. Roy

The voltage you see with the wire off might be just coming thru the components. A couple of things to check If you unplug the alternator yellow wires and measure between them with a multimeter, about half an Ohm. With the key ON make sure you get 12 Volts at the black wire of the black/white pair, this is the Voltage reference. The regulator case must be well grounded to the chassis, it's better to connect it to the engine rather than running a wire all the way back to the battery. Does your ignition/charge light stay ON?

Thanks Luhbo, that's what I thought. I plan on just using the LC-1 to let me know if the map is rich or lean then I will adjust it accordingly. Roy

Let me get this right. You are able to go closed loop without an optomizer, I thought that was required. I just put an LC-1 on my bike, haven't really had a chance to use it yet. I love my MyECU but I assumed I would have to feed back the corrections manually. Roy

That's a fine looking all in one dash That's a fine looking all in one dash, I tossed up going that way http://www.translogicusa.com/micro-dash.php I have my new dash plate carved out of 1/8 Aluminium plate, thanks to Nosail for machining the large holes. I since found that metal cutting blades are available for a coping saw, they make short work of the curves.

If the mileage is really that low the paint should be in great shape. I have a 2002 that sat for several years in a container and I have had it back on the road for about 3 so far no seal problems, all the issues have been due to high mileage and a fender bender by the PO BTW I had the forks apart, just added fresh oil as the seals were good.

I agree, changing out both is expensive, I may yet just try to match a new Speedhut to my existing white face Veglia I like the fact the gauges are only 1" deep which would make for a more compact unit and I like the old school round face.

Either that or figure out how to hot wire the bike - so long as you don't lock the steering. Do this ahead of time and you will never be stuck.

I plan on trying a speed pickup from a car mounted on the gearbox in place of the angle drive. Speedhut sell a GM and Ford type sensor but I will visit a local auto wrecker. If that's not practicle a friend of mine mounted his sensor to pick up the bolts on his Enfield's rear wheelhub. Something like a security system reed switch and magnet would be another route, anything that gives a pulse of 1 Volt or more. When I get mine done I will re-post, don't hold your breath though, may not be until spring. Roy Update Thanks Ducwad, actually it was Craig who put me on to using the Auto speed sensor, I saw a post from him and fired off a PM He used a GM sensor which took a bit of adapting and VDO clocks. The sensor some Fords use look like they might be easier to adapt. Quoting from Craig's post The proper calibration pulse count for the speedometer is 35449 counts per mile, which is very close to what I predicted based on measuring the turns of the speedo cable over 1/100 mile as recommended by Palo Alto Speedometer. 22.1 turns X 16 pulse/rev *100 = 35360 With this info I should be able to figure out how many pulses per km for the speedhut unit

And here I was counting on you to adapt some sort of stepper motor with wireless actuator to give the Veglia new life beyond bevelism! Don't worry, I have been thinking about that also but then you still have the flakey odometer. I figured out I can do away with the angle drives by moving the speedo to the right hand side and running the cable direct. You have to remove both drives otherwise the speedo will run backwards. Yes I thought about a 3 phase motor and alternator also but for $175 iI can save a lot of greif. The speedhut with microprocessor and stepper motor should be just as accurate as I can calculate

I like the look and price of those, closest match to the original that I have seen. I assume that they are weatherproof? That was my question to SpeedHut Message: Dear Sir/Madam I am looking at a GRM338-SPEEDO-02 for a motorcycle. Is the bezzel and reset button waterproof. Is it possible to set the oddometer to match the mechanical one I am removing? What is the input pulse range for km/h I quote Hi Roy, Thank you for contacting us. Concerning your first question, our gauges are water resistant but not entirely waterproof. However, we can add silicone underneath the edge of the bezel which will help keep water out. We offer this service at no extra charge. Many people have used our gauges on their motorcycles, and we've never received any complaints. Also, our gauges come with a lifetime guarantee, so that if they do stop working, you can ship them back to us, and we will repair them free of charge. I would also recommend having the button moved to the back of the gauge so that it will be more waterproof. Also, we can set the odometer to any mileage you would like so that it matches your previous speedometer. Concerning the input pulse range, it needs to be higher than one volt and can take anything up to 100 volts. It also can use any type of wave form. If you were to place an order online, you would just include in Order Notes at checkout that you want the gauge to be as waterproof as possible and also the amount you would like the odometer to be set to. I hope this helps answer your questions. Please let me know if you have any other questions or concerns. Have a great day, End quote Sounds like they are waterproof enough, after all the Veglia has a 1/2" hole where the trip reset goes in. If you get a seal between the bezel and the dash should be ok I like the idea of being able to set set the odo where the Veglia is now. The button at the back is a good idea also, or even just a wire I can connect to my own button. Failing that I'm sure I can just trigger the rear mounted button with a linkage. I'm sure this is the answer to the bothersome angle drives Roy

I am in the process of building a new dash to include a pressure gauge and O2 meter, I'm leaning towards. http://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GRM338-SPEEDO-02/1/Speedometer-Gauge-260km-h-Metric-programmable">http://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GRM338-SPEEDO-02/1/Speedometer-Gauge-260km-h-Metric-programmable I don't like the idea of their GPS unit I prefer to adapt the existing speedo drive at the gearbox to put out pulses. I really like how you can customize the look with different pointers and fonts etc. in day or night. By adding T to the part number you get turn and high beam lights. And a Tacho to match http://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GR338-TACH-02/1/Tachometer-Gauge-8K-RPM-Shift-light Once you get the hang of their site filter there are so many options

As GuzziMoto says, a good time to check the head bearings also.

I think a locksmith may be able to make a key from the number stamped on the lock. Guzzi share the same blank with Triumph, at least my 01 Vll does.

It might also be just the hose connected to the drain is pinched.

The V11 runs fine without the tacho, you can easily test it by pulling the headlight relay. Don't leave it out though because the charging stops with it out. There are also a couple of single pole connectors in the wire from the RCU to tacho that can be unplugged I am looking for a nice replacement pair of electronic clocks for my new dash, any suggestions? GuzziMoto, is the Speedhut GPS unit waterproof? I saw a nice electronic speedo on a friends Imp engined Enfield but I didn't catch the brand, it had a pulse pickup at the back axel.

Thats great Jim, I'm going to copy that onto the BC Classic site Merry Christmas to you too Roy