Kiwi_Roy

The two sensors are thermistors, both have a resistance value of 3,000 Ohms at 25 C, there is really no way they can drift off from that. The drawing that shows where to measure the sensors from the ECU plug, it's likely a wire has dropped off or is shorting The one Guzzi call the "Oil Temperature" is the one in the side of block. I posted you a couple of the thermistors on Saturday Roy ECU Test Points.pdf

As Fotoguzzi says grounding is really important, I suggest make a jumper about 8 inches long with a 1/4" lug at each end and run it from the regulator case to a timing cover screw, file the regulator lug first to get a good connection and add a little grease between the case and lug to prevent it corroding. Several other things to check. 1/ With the key on you should have 12 Volts at the black wire of the Black/White pair, the regulator needs this to work. If you unplug the headlight fuse thinking this will extend your range with no charging you actually make it worse because the black wire comes from the headlight relay, better to remove the bulb or unplug the headlamp at the headstock. Another sign 12V is missing is no tacho or idiot lights. 2/ The 2 red wires from the regulator combine and feed the battery through a 30 Amp fuse, the socket for this fuse has a habit of developing a high resistance often melting the plastic, easy fixed with a bit of sandpaper and bending the clips to apply more tension Unplug the two red wires, with your Ohmeter you will get zero Ohms between the socket and Battery Positive 3/ If my bike is anything to go by the yellow wires break off where they are soldered to the alternator coils, you can check for this with an Ohmeter, between the two yellows should read less than an Ohm. If you have a break it may be easier to replace both wires as the copper is probably oxidized. Another easy fix if you have a soldering gun, pencil types don't have enough heat. If you don't want to carry a multimeter as part of your toolkit I suggest carying a 12 Volt LED with about 3 feet leads with this you can get a good idea of Voltage, mark one lead chassis, LEDs are polarity sensitive. Moto Guzzi Making electricians out of riders for 90 years

You're comparing apples to oranges. While tappered roller bearings may last rather long when used for what they were designed, they won't last very long when used in steering heads. It's not a matter of greasing them or not. The difference is the 'rolling'. Besides that I've lately seen an opened BMW 1000 RR steering head - they use a ball bearing for the upper one. On a V11 this should work as well. Hubert I agree a head bearing is not the same as a wheel bearing but they take many times the weight at similar angles when cornering etc. I was trying to point out that a regular roller bearing is not designed to take end thruat, the inner part will just slide right through. I'm sure the ball race in the BMW works great as did some of my old Brit bikes and bicycles but is it a standard off the shelf item that would be stocked by any bearing supplier? I was under the impression that changing to tapered rollers is an upgrade, I expect my new bearing to last at least 5 years, if I have to replace it again that's ok. The limited range of motion would apply to any bearing installed. The failure of the bearing on my bike was a matter of lack of grease and water. I can relate back to electric motors, they might use balls for a straight drive like coupled to a gearbox but once you get into a belt drive or any serious side thrust it's either roller bearing (straight not tapered) at the drive end or babbit bearings for really large low speed motors. I might be crotchety but still not too old to learn. Cheers Roy

You mean like this "little chopper"? Jim, Stop messing us around, I'm sure the members would be interested to see what you do for a crust Roy

Helicopter Jim only flys little choppers Duck waiting for the incomming.

Most cars use tapered roller wheel bearings and they last forever when well greased, regular rollers are not designed to take end trust. The bearings on my 01 are FAG 30205A I used the Timken equivalent Pick up a couple before you pull it apart to save time.

It's amazing that new oil can make such a difference. What's the explanation for that?

I think you're right about the curve, I just replaced the inner on my Cali II tach and it wobbled from day one. Except for the curve at the end the cable is almost straight and very short. On the other hand my V11 speedo cable has been badly chewed, kinked, patched, repaired and it still runs dead smooth. A friend gave me a nice outer from a LeMans, I plan on doing away with the angle drives as a winter project.

I had to order some parts the other day so I tacked on some thermistors. If anyone wants one send me a PM with your postal address. They are just the bare little bead with a couple of wires as shown in the attachment, no plug or shroud. The sensor is the same for oil or air temperature When I removed the airbox on my bike I extended the thermistor out to the front at the headstock, without the air flow it would be too hot under the tank, especially for a hot start. Roy

With apologies to Pete, "you've forgotten more than I will ever know" I Quote So far my conclusion is debri setles in the sump before filtration and draining, if that's so what I saw is the accumalation of 19,000 miles, this being my first sump removal. Since you had the sump off for the first time perhaps as Luhbo said it was just bits left over. If it's running fine ride it for a while then check again, it you find more metal next time then worry. Roy

When I put pods on my machine I experienced a flat spot mid rev range, I added the runners back also. My winter project is to replace the rubber with some nice SS exhaust pipe to make a couple of velocity stacks.

Take the bolts right out and inspect them, because of misalignment the sharp teeth on the shaft chewed the thread right off mine. I was able to get replacements at the local non Guzzi dealer.

I think they should be tight, at least mine seem to be. When you put the shaft together make sure the hole in the universal lines up exactly with the indent in the shaft otherwise the bolts get chewed up. Also make sure the two paint marks are in line to show the spline is in the correct spot.

Perhaps changes to the exhaust or intake TPS in a different position. You are correct though, it should never move. CzDavec Thanks for getting back with the good news Now your bike is running great we need a picture

Tighten it till it strips then back it off a quarter turn Just joking I just tightened mine as much as I could with a short ring spanner, it's not like it has to hold anything real important.

My little trick 2 posts back will eliminate half of the wiring from the equation. Re 30 Amp fuse Some Guzzis have the regulator wired direct to the battery without a fuse, the current will not go over what the alternator is capable of and won't flow back from the battery through the diodes inside the regulator.

Intermittent faults can be hard to pin down. I often suggest adding a small lamp to the circuit which allows you to safely monitor for loss of power. As long as the ECU relay is getting power the bike should run, if it starts to falter a glance at the lamp will tell if it's something dropping the relay out. This applies to pretty well any of the early Guzzis with fuel injection, the wiring around the ECU and coils etc is pretty much standard. (they vary around the sidestand switch and Start relay / headlight relay) The carb models too you can monitor with a lamp connected to a point in the ignition circuit. If it falters and the lamp is flickering then you select a point further back towards the supply fuse and try again. Small 12V LEDs are perfect for this, they respond quicker and are more rugged than the incandescent variety. Test Lamp.pdf

The charge light has +12 Volts on one side and the regulator grounds out the other so if you unplug the dual connector the light must go out. If youre running LEDs in the dash a little moisture is enough to turn them on but there's really nowhere for the moisture to collect unless it gets in the large multi way connector at the front of the tank, that would be a concern. The charge light is really seperate from the charging function so I wouldn't worry too much, if you need to turn it off you can unplug the dual connector and turn it 90° so only the black wire is connected. One other thing, have you added a proper ground to the regulator, a short wire from the case to an engine bolt works great and may cure the problem.

I don't have my schematics handy but sounds as though you are missing the ground connection. Cliff usually gets right back if you have a problem. Roy

Are you crazy?

Sounds like the sidestand switch, mine just quit the other day also.

It could be several things, I'll list a few obvious ones Bad ground on the regulator. All of the charging current has to get back to the alternator via the regulator case. On a new bike the regulator is grounded by a good accidental connection to the horn bracket, from horn bracket to chassis however as the bike ages the contact points rust and corrode and all you are left with is the tiny wire Luigi ran from the case back to the battery. Any Voltage drop in this wire is subtracted from the battery Voltage. You should have a nice fat wire running from the regulator case to an engine bolt. Loose 30 Amp fuse The alternator doesn't put out a steady DC current like a generator, it puts out half wave pulses that are quite high, perhaps over 40 Amps, this can cause the fuse holder contacts to heat up eventually melting the plastic of the fuse or welding it in place. After a run touch each of the fuses and see if any are warm. The fuse holder should have a nice firm grip on the fuse Check the headlight fuse also, look for any discouloration of the plastic or blade contact area. Bad contact in the relay base Relay 2 (headlight relay) also provides the reference Voltage to the regulator, horn, idiot lights, 12V to the tacho and a few other things. The base contacts can spread apart or even if tight they corrode a little causing some extra resistance. Pull the relay and check the contacts, in the process you will give the contacts a scrape and create a better contact. On some bikes they wired the headlight relay in series with the starter relay so check that as well. Dirty ignition switch After a few years the grease in the ignition switch goes hard which takes some tension off the contacts building up resistance. Somewhere on the forum I have a post showing how you can check the resistance without pulling the switch. I don't think this is your case because the V11 Sport has one of the better Guzzi wiring schemes but if you haven't cleaned the contacts in a few years it might help. Dirty Dimmer switch contacts As above, but I don't think this is your problem, do you have after market headlight relays? Bad contact on the headlamp base connector. These are known to overheat and melt, easily fixed because they are a standard item in any auto parts store. I don't think this is your problem since the panel lights are effected also Bad battery connection Your battery terminals should be scraped and have Vaseline applied to prevent oxidation. Bad Regulator Sometimes one of the diodes lets go Hopefully not the case but I can show you how to check. Take note, do the panel lights go bright and dim with the headlight or opposite (headlight dim, panel lights bright) Some bikes have the horn on the same fuse as the headlight, you could check that by pulling the headlight fuse. If this is the case I would suspect the relay bases of headlight fuse holder I'm sure there are others, PM sent. Moto Guzzi, making electricians out of riders for 90 years.

Update The site was up for a couple of hours yesterday but this morning it's gone again. Luap has left this message for us on the main board. Wildguzzi.com Update 9-25-12: On or about 09-20-2012, the harddrives on the server failed. Completely failed. I am currently working to locate a good backup to restore the files. The only backups I have were corrupted. I have no estimated time to get all of this resolved, but am working on it continually. Thanks for your patience, Luap McKeever I'm sure most of us have lost a hard drive at some time, perhaps it would be a good idea for Luap to forget about all the old files and start again with a clean slate. At the same time it might be a good idea to place some restrictions on the way we copy and paste huge quotes and I'm sure threads with multiple copies of photographs must clog up the works. Take as long as you need Luap, we will be here when you get back. Roy

Yes there's one screw under the cap near the rear at about 7 o'clock to stop gas theft. Do you think someone might have jammed something in the key slot. Take it to a locksmith perhaps they have a secret way of clearing a lock. If all else fails you may be able to attach a lever and snap the internal bracket, every second allen screw is a false one, the short screws don't attach to the tank at all, they are just there for decoration. I had mine off just last week, that's how I know about the screws. The screws at 1,5 & 9 O'clock are real along with the one at 7 O'clock under the cap You could also drill a 1/4" hole through the lid at 7 O'clock just in from the false screw to line up with the hidden one, that would allow you to undo it with an allen key. Once you get the lock sorted fill the hole with JB

There are two sites I visit every day without fail, this one and Wild Guzzi for the past week when I type "Wild goose chase guzzi" I see the link but click on "General Discussion" all I get is Safari can’t find the server. I'm starting to suffer from withdrawal here "Hurry back Luap"