Kiwi_Roy

I took a look at doing that, it's a great idea, there must be a couple of useless liters over the hump. If you tilt the bike over to get it to the left side the pump will throw it straight back then start sucking air again. How will you install the line and hold it in place?

Perhaps it's just for a Push /Pull arrangement very common on Japanese bikes

Thanks gentlemen, that will certainly give me a good start. Roy

Something I have never tried to do is adjust the suspension, I just left it where the PO had it set. I have changed the oil in the front forks so its no longer valid. I'm sure I'm not the only one who finds this all a mystery. My 2001 V11 Sport has the rear susspension with white spring and blue adjustment nuts/knobs. I can figure out the large castelated nuts are for pre-load but how do you set that, is there a measurement to take while sitting on the bike? What does the knurled collar at the other end of the shock do? Then there's the valve on the little tank off to one side, it's all to much. At the front of course there's the compression rebound valves, what's the proceedure there? I immagine that once it's all set up and you take on a passenger or load up for camping you should adjust the pre-load. Thanks in advance Roy

That's a brilliant idea, I have often wished I could give it enough throttle so I could take my right hand off to do something, the stock cam doesn't quite do it.

So it's like this then Fuel Circuit.pdf The bottom sketch that is. The top sketch is my V11 Sport

The fuel circuit should go tank - pump - filter - both injectors - pressure relief valve - back to tank On some models the pump and maybe the filter is inside the tank, on others it's bolted on under the tank. The pressure relief valve on mine is a small unit about 1-1/2" diameter fitted to the return connection of the tank on other bikes the relief valve somewhere in the hose between the injectors and tank. The relief valve setting is 34 - 40 PSI The pump circulates the fuel around as long as the engine is running No, you can't just run one hose to each injector they can be connected Y fashion or with a hose that passes by one then the other. Fuel Circuit.pdf

Preliminary - I will refine this with some feedback, please offer your critique. I am hoping the relays on all our bikes are in the same sequence, if not please advise your model and relay order. Here goes If you are stuck beside the road with a dead bike and you suspect it may be a bad relay here's how to check them out Pull all 5 relays and with the bike in neutral try them one at a time in the start relay spot, Slot 1 on most V11s I think. (you may need to take the bike off the prop stand for the starter to crank) The start slot gives the relay a pretty good workout, an inrush current of 40 - 50 Amps and requires good contacts for the starter to crank. Once you have tested each relay take two that you know are working and put them in the ECU and Power slots (4 & 5 I think), Now when you turn the key on you should hear the fuel pump prime for a couple of seconds (you may need to take the bike off the prop stand) Put another good relay in the starter slot and the bike should crank, start and run however if you still have a good relay put it in the headlight spot (slot 2) Notes: 1/ If the bike has several 4 pin relays and one or two with 5 pins the only slot that needs 5 is the start relay the 4 pin variety will cause the starter to crank but the fifth pin is used to power up the headlight relay. Five pin relays can be used in every slot. 2/ The safety relay slot doesn't need a relay for the bike to run once off the propstand, this relay keeps the bike running on the stand in neutral 3/ Once the bike is running the start relay is no longer required for running but still used to power the headlight Once you are safely home in the garage you can get a bit more scientific Relay is it energized.pdf

Had to google channel locks. What we in Blighty call mole grips I guess or near nuff. As a committed tool fetishist, the three legged wotsit keeps me happy. Yea, Channel Lock is a brand name they also get called Water Pump Pliers, slip joint pliers and probably lot's of other profanities, Mole Grips I remember from down under.

I agree, hand tight with a hose clamp for security and they will also come off by hand, if a bit stiff you can pry them off with a screwdriver levered against the post.

Buzzard We need you to post some more pictures of that bike, what we can see looks spectacular

I'm sure the Rosso is very similar to the V11 Sport. It sounds as though the ECU relay is not picking up as it should First relay 4 picks up, that triggers the ECU which picks up Relay 5 to prime the pump. If you pull both relays 4 and 5 With the key on you should see Voltage at Fuse 8 (if you have electric petcock) and Test point "f" Turn key off, insert relay 4. key on Now you should see Voltage at Test point"g" Turn key off, insert relay 5, key on you should now hear the pump for a couple of seconds. If none of the above The kill switch and start button plug into the loom - Guzzi Wiring - Simple.pdf Test Point Layout.pdf Your relay and fuse layout might be different but I suspect the're very similar Relay bases can develop a high resistance sometimes, loose contacts, corrosion. Relay Base Repair.pdf I will send you a PM

Thanks for the Vapour Lock link, my buddie and I are planning a trip to California in August, I'm sure it's much warmer than here in BC so I will put some insulation back. I/m guessing the fuel boils right at the pump suction since rubber is such a good insulator. Just out of curiosity I looked up gasolene boiling point. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/fuels-boiling-point-d_936.html It was explained to me that the wide range of boiling points is due to the different components, Im guessing that only one or two of the lower temp ones need to flash off to cause a bubble.

As others have said, if both front and rear lamps are on (assuming you haven't just replaced the lamps with LEDs it's likely the flasher can. I think LEDs use a different electronic flasher with 3 terminals, the 3rd one grounded to the chassis.

You have me curious, I replaced all the hose on mine last year and left off a great wad of insulation the PO had applied. Please point us to the vapour lock thread

Sorry Hubert, As I said there's so much information out there. I'm not saying the author doesn't know what he's talking about I just don't think it applies in our case. Our bikes with Ducati Energia regulators are more like constant Voltage chargers cutting off at 13.8V with the headlight relay 14.4 without, not constant current as per the article. His curves are interesting though, note how the flat part of the curve gets closer to the setpoint as the C/time drops. I suspect we start out at C/1 and work our way up towards C/20 covering a very wide SOC band. Battery Curve.pdf I also suspect these curves are just freehand sketches (which is quite ok) not something that was actually plotted. You may wonder why my 2 setpoints are different by 0.6 Volts, it just so happens that's the voltage drop I measured on my bike from battery + to the black wire others will be a little different, some more, some less.

I got a screw in my near new rear and have a plug. I find it hard to belive someone would toss out a new tire in spite of what they say.

There is so much miss-information about batteries on the web it's hard to get it straight anymore. You ask about the difference between 13.9 and 14.5. If you look at any reasonable Voltage vs % charge curve 0.6 Volts amounts to about 30% of charge. The idea of adding a "Trick" diode is just to restore the status quo after adding headlight relays that's all. Luigi was tricking the regulator by dropping voltage between battery and reference wire, adding relays foiled his trick Have you checked the diodes in your regulator, not being able to recover sounds a bit like mine when one of the diodes let go. I think the charging on the V11 is quite good when it's working as it was intended, the alternator certainly has enough capacity.

You can boost it up by 0.6 Volts simply by adding a diode in series with the black wire. To test it unplug the Black/White plug and turn it half a turn so only the white one is connected then take a diode wired to a M/F bullet connector and connect the other two. Something like this. White-------> >-------White---|regulator| Black--- - Diode Sorry, it doesn't display how I want it, I will do a sketch

My bike has the Italian sneeze also, it every now and then seems to fire early sort of kicks back like it wants to run the other way when it is idling slow, never does over about 1200 revs indicates. It does this with the stock or MyECU. It seemed to ease it a lot when I opened up the tappet clearance but not gone completely. Perhaps it's just idling too slow, I keep meaning to check the tacho against a frequency meter. You can check the revs by measuring the alternator frequency x 60 / 7

I have heard if the electric petcock has failed it puts a lot more strain on the pump, perhaps you have an intermittent open circuit there, assuming you still have one of course

Working with someone else on the forum I was asked how to tell if the relays are energized, heres a simple way. Relay is it energized.pdf Just bare half an inch or so and wrap it around the 87 pin of the relay.

As others have pointed out it's the neutral switch giving you trouble, not the sidestand switch/ The sidestand switch is closed with the stand folded up, open with it deployed. Relay 3 really should be called the neutral relay in my opinion because it's energized with the bike in neutral to jumper around the sidestand switch. Guzzi Wiring - Simple.pdf Shown with the bike in neutral and the stand deployed. The relays are in the de-energized state because the key is off.

Yes check the compression with a handful of throttle. The difference in compression might be just a throttle imbalance.

That's good news, that youre feeling better I mean. The weather here has been mizerable this spring although I usually manage to get out for coffee on Sunday morning with the classic bike group. Two of the others claim they have Guzzies but I think they may be posers as they come in their cage. (I'm joking) For those who haven't added headlight relays yet, here's a fairly easy route. The top half shows how to test the for Voltage drop. I show the meter connected at the regulators Black wire, you can also measure between battery positive and the headlamp, it will be higher for sure. I chose the regulator point because it's held at ~13.8 when the bike is running. The Voltage drop you read on the meter is mainly in the small wiring to the dimmer switch and it's contacts. You can do this test without the bike running or skip that part altogether if you aren't curious like me The bottom shows how to add just one relay in the headlight bucket to boost the Voltage, use one of your old Siemens relays for this. You can have it fail to High or Low doesn't matter. I forgot to show the idiot light it's connected to the right of Hi/Low switch of course. With a relay you should end up with around 13 Volts across the lamp fillament. No relay base required, just buy the two different size insulated spade connectors then you can just wrap a bit of tape around any exposed contacts and jamb it in the headlight. The advantage of this circuit , it doesn't upset the charging circuit and only needs about a foot of new wire. Headlight Relay - Ducati Energia.pdf