Kiwi_Roy

I'm with Thumper, the alternator is more than up to maintaining the battery if you have just the standard headlight etc. However it will loose ground when idling in traffic. There are two reasons I know for weak charging. An open circuit in one of the regulators diodes, this can be easily checked. Bad ground on the regulator. I have seen this on several bikes, including my own, the tiny ground wire the factory provides is next to useless. The current pulses the regulator puts out are in excess of 30 Amps so you need something like #14 or 1mm at least. The connection between case and the chassis through the mounting bolts is ok until corrosion takes place which is inevitable with disimilar metals in a wet environment. If you haven't already done so run a heavy wire between the regulator case and a handy engine bolt. Charging Circuit Problems.pdf Regulator Diode Tests.pdf Shows some readings I took on a healthy bike. Charging Circuit Tests.pdf Roy

What are you riding. Man the brakes on my V11 Sport are so good they are scary It's dead easy to stand it on the front wheel.

Yes, but my Italian girlfriend said... "Buy me a new battery and I'll show you a good time" What else could I do?

I'm running a Yuasa in mine, got ripped off at the local dealer who charged me $190 for it. I was stuck in a parking lot and tried phoning all around but no-one else could cross reference the original Spark. A few months later the Yuasa quit and the dealer reluctantly replaced it under warantee with aother Yuasa, so far it's performed flawlessly and the stealer lost the Guzzi brand along with Triumph. That's Karma in action. I think Yuasa are OK at the right price. Roy

Hi Ouiji, From the other comments it sounds like the board may liven up a notch! I'm fairly new here, my simple drawing of a 2001 V11 Sport, it applies to other models also Guzzi Wiring - Simple.pdf You can see that Fuse 1 supplies Voltage to ECU terminal 17 even with the key off. I doubt it draws very much current but you can remove Fuse 1 and connect your multimeter across it's socket to measure the mA A more detailed drawing of the ECU wiring ECU Test Points.pdf Cheers Roy

http://www.wakantanka.com/ Sorry, you've lost me

Heres a picture of a friends V11 with wrap Personally I prefer mine naked

By the time you do it again you will have forgotten how

Oh no, you've gone and started another oil thread. Seriously I think most use the recomended synthetic along with OEM filters. I'm a long way from my manual at the moment. There a 3 different oils, motor, gearbox and rear drive. I would start with just the motor, it's hardly likely the transmission would need changing. Try to make contact with some other guzzi riders in your area, they will point in the right direction. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/index.htm I'm sure you will find a manual on this excelent site Another good site http://www.wildguzzi.com/forum/ but not specific to your bike like this site. Post on there and you will find guys in your area for sure. Cheers Roy

No sorry, I haven't seen anything better, the trouble is finding somewhere to put the new fuses. If you are going to add some accessories like that don't load them onto the ignition switch it's already struggling, add another relay with the coil powered from the downstream side of the headlight relay that way the load will be switched off while cranking. Since your new loads are non-essential you could feed them all off a simgle circuit say Battery +, Fuse, Relay contact, new loads. I'm away in China at the moment so I have no way of sketching something out.

I'm sorry to hear about your Dad, tell us more about him, the Guzzi community is quite small I'm sure others here knew him and would jump at the chance of helping you sort out his bike. Yes, you must definately keep the bike, once you get it back on the road it will be a constant reminder of your Father. The battery probably needs replacing if it's been sitting for 5 years or more but you could try charging it up first. Yuasa batteies are conventional Lead Acid and not that expensive. Post some photos, perhaps one of your Dad with the bike. BTW, what year LeMans? Cheers Roy

Been there - done that, too many wires on each terminal

This might help Guzzi Wiring - Simple.pdf Do you hear the petcock operate. With the key on see if the Relay 1 clicks as you put it in and out of the socket. Check for 12V at the 30 terminal of R1 R2, if not check F1 F2 If you've had the battery disconnected check to make sure you reconnected ALL the wires

Tap into the headlight relay circuit perhaps, it's already switched.

In North America a good source is www.digikey.com http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/G8HN-1C2T-R%20DC12/Z2247-ND/765512 Use all 5 pin variety and keep the old ones for projects such as Headlight relays, heated clothing switched supply etc Roy

As you know the Wild Goose chase server is down Can we keep in touch here with progress updates? Thanks Roy

Can you elaborate any issues here? Which allen screws - the ones on UJ? Gearbox spline - the spline on output shaft? Thanks. KB The two Allen head bolts that pinch the gearbox end of the driveshaft onto the spline. The spline has an indent to allow for these so you have to remove the bolt completely. If you don't get the indent in the center of the bolt hole it results in the threads getting all chewed up. The first time I pulled the driveshaft my bolts were all stripped that way so I replaced them. I also modified my grease gun to fit thinking "I won't have to pull that again" guess what. I think if you had a bare needle bent to the correct angle you might be able to grease it but once you get the wheel out it's a cinch to drop the swingarm and pull the shaft. Take a note of where the pivot bolts in the pork chop are before you remove them so they go back the same and check the pivot bearings also.

I thought that the driveshaft couldn't fit through the tunnel in the the swingarm? That's right, I just backed off the swing arm bolts and dropped it right out, gives you a chance to inspect those bearings and rear wheel also. I think I must have disconnected the suspension, it's only a 2 beer job. I have only done it twice so I'm no expert.

The only relay that needs 5 pins is the Start Relay, the front one on my V11 All the others only use the Normally Open contacts 30 & 87 so you can use 4 pins everywhere but start relay. Most riders replace all the relays with the 5 pins variety I think the relays get a bad rap, sometimes it's the relay base connectors spread apart. I have a theory by swapping the relays around the pins get a scrape and make contact for a while. I wipe the pins with a little petroleum jelly aka Vaseline to stop them corroding. If your old relay is bad you could break out one the pins and use that to test how much grip each base contact has. Relay Base Repair.pdf Shows how you can remove the base contacts to tighten them. If you have a multimeter a relay should read 0 Ohms between pin 30 & 87A and around 100 - 120 Ohms across the coil pins 85 & 86. Connect 12 Volts across the coil and you should hear a nice healthy click then the contact will change and you get 0 Ohms between 30 & 87 (refer to the drawing I sent previously, it shows the pin arrangement) Once the bike is running and off the prop stand only relay 4 & 5 are required. Update (to make the engine run that is)

Did you happen to replace the original 5 pin relay with a 4 pin variety? The start relay needs to be 5 pin, when it's not energized it powers the headlight relay and all the other items you mention. BTW, the battery will not charge either so don't be tempted to ride too far. Here's a link to Carl's schematic http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif And mine showing a bit less detail Guzzi Wiring - Simple.pdf Fuse 5 on the left goes to the Start Relay R1 and to the starter solenoid while cranking or to the Headlight relay R2 when the start button is released

Each time I try I end up pulling the rear wheel and removing the drive shaft, quite easy actually at least you can then see the grease going in. Just be very careful aligning the indent in the gearbox spline with the two allen screws. She's starting to look Good

Clean the battery terminals and apply grease. The sluggish start could also be a bad battery ground, check where it connects to the frame, behind the seat release key on the V11 Sport. It's not a bad idea to run a good ground from the headlight back to the frame otherwise the current may be passing thru the steering bearing which is not good. Measure from battery negative to a point on the engine, you should never see any significant voltage either cranking or with other loads.

Sounds good to me.

I agree with the rest. All it does is fudge the air temperature reading based on the O2 sensors. That being said it may just work if the O2 sensors don't have enough clout to effect the ECU directly. I still think Cliff's MyECU is a better way to go!