Kiwi_Roy

If you suspect it might be an intermittent electrical fault (going open) I suggest Get a small 12V lamp perhaps one for testing auto wiring Attach it to the handlebars and wire one side to ground. Run the other side to Fuse 8 if you have the electric petcock or wrap ti around the small pin on relay 4, careful not to cause a short The light should stay on as long as the key's on, no flickering If it flickers something is dropping out the ECU relay, Ignition Switch, Kill Switch, side-stand switch. Guzzimeister Said "Misfiring can be due to, in rough order of occurrence: - ECU relay or injection relay (4th and 5th from left) not connecting properly, usually due to the connector working its way down in the realy block. Pull the relay out, it you can't see all the connectors properly, that's the problem" That makes sense, the connectors click into place, if one wasn't home it might sit there and break contact. The connectors get spread after a while also, just need a gentle squeeze. See "Relay Base Repair" under the FAQ heading Good luck Roy

My guess would be water in the oil, just get a bottle of fresh stuff and drain it out somewhere. The missing might be your ignition switch, toggle it back and forth a few times se if that improves it. You could also try jumpering across the safety circuit to pick up the ECU relay in case it's something in the safety circuit Guzzi Wiring - Simple.pdf

One of your wires might be broken also. Just two screws from underneath the steering head on mine. I thought they would be hard to get out but came easy. The switch plugs into the loom at the front of tank I think, I just pulled mine apart while still attached to the bike. You can check the contact resistance from under the seat without removing the switch. See Note 4 Test Point Layout Aug 2011.pdf Your bike might be slightly different but wires connected to the switch will be somewhere handy, just follow your wiring diagram.

Edited in the interest of world peace. Cheers Roy

First of all, I can't remember anyone asking you........But I will interpret your reply for you..... Of course, this is all in fun because I added a smiley face...... Savagehenry is a poet, he caries his own built in entertainment http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16876&st=0&p=180824&fromsearch=1entry180824

Good tip, it isolates your device from the bikes wiring so you are shielded from a lot of noise. Just to confirm the model No ECTA11N is listed as 12V in / 5V out - this would suit most GPS units I think you need ECTA12N 12V in / 12V out for the Amplifier Do you use a seperate converter for each device or run all like voltage on the same one? Roy

The sidestand relay (could also be called the Neutral relay) is connected in parallel with the sidestand switch The current either passes through the switch when the stand is up or the relay when the stand is down and the bike is in neutral Guzzi Wiring - Simple.pdf Shown with stand up And the big picture from Carl c/w wire colours http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif A couple of pictures of the switch, you may have to pull the starter to get access. Neutral Switch.pdf Start by shorting the neutral switch wire to chassis, you should see the light come on and hear the relay pick up. You can test the switch with a multimeter between the terminal and chassis, it should only be grounded in neutral. I don't have any experience box internals, someone else will have to help you there. My guess is they disconnected the wire between switch and relay. I hope you didn't take your bike back to that shop!

I really doubt it's the regulator, you can eliminate that by unplugging the Black/White pair of wires a few inches from the regulator, just be aware that the bike won't charge with those out. Unless the regulator melts down there is no direct path to ground from Fuse 5. Fuse 5 supplies a lot of wiring with potential short capability (the Red/Black wire) goes all over the place. It supplies Tacho, horn, panel lights, stop lights and also acts as the voltage reference for the regulator. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif One thing I would check carefully is the idiot lights, the lampholders are absolute c***. They short out if the wrong lamp is inserted. Ask me how I know. You can eliminate those by unplugging the connector (8) or snip the common wire. Does the fuse blow when you are not operating anything or would you not notice the headlight going off? Check both stoplight switches. The tail-light wiring is a very common place to get a short, where the wire passes through a fender or the lampholder itself, have a close look at that. Even the lamp can short out. The stoplight is fed from the same fuse. It's a simple short somewhere. Google Carl Allison Drawings and get the appropriate print then just follow the red/Black wire around. If that fails to find anything the next step is to divide up the load, hopefully it won't come to that

I doubt its a relay for the fuse to blow needs a short circuit to chassis, possibly a wire pinched somewhere. Since your bike is a special it may not have the standard wiring, do you know? If your wiring is non standard pull the fuse and make a list of all the things it effects. So it happens as you are riding, not when starting. Does it happen when you apply the brakes? One way to look for an intermittent short is to replace the fuse with a lamp, then wriggle all the wiring around if the lamp suddenly becomes bright you are on to it. Far quicker and cheaper than blowing fuses, I use an old headlamp bulb for this purpose, the normal load will make it glow but not at full brightness until you get the short. I would start by checking the wires going to the tail light area.

It's not like you have to start from scratch, it comes with a map and there is lots of help from the other users. I am currently running a map e-mailed to me by Raz, he ran a bike like mine in closed loop (self tuning) so I figured it was a good place to start, changing from one map too another is just a mouse click.

+1 on MyECU visit his websites http://cajinnovations.com/yabb0/YaBB.pl http://www.jefferies-au.org/MyECU/technical_site_map.html I wouldn't recommend assembling one yourself unless you have good soldering skills When I got mine I had to salvage the connector and pressure sensor from the stock one but I have since rebuilt it as it as a spare. You need to tell Cliff all about your bike, exhaust setup etc so he can start you off with the best map. As for a one man operation, he has several dedicated users making suggestions and Beta testing. Roy

You're right $11.52 from MG Cycle part No 17768750, at that price it's not worth the hassle I also ordered a shift return spring, part No 04238300 $7.73, if I carry it mine will never break.

I added a pressure gauge to my 2001, I have it mounted on the steering damper bracket. When it's hot at idle the pressure drops down from 70 to about 20psi. The bike has done about 55k miles, I imagine your bike with only 9k holds higher pressure. My switch quit about a month ago so the gauge gives peace of mind. Good to hear your motors ok. Cheers Roy

I would like to add one. Run a decent ground to the regulator! The regulator ground needs to carry up to 35 Amps (short pulses), any resistance to chassis results in an undercharged battery. The regulator doesn't care what the battery voltage is, it simply sets the voltage between the black wire (reference) and it's own case at around 14.8 Volts. As it comes from the factory it may have a tiny black wire disappearing into the loom somewhere, that's not man enough. The reg is bolted to the horn bracket (aluminium to steel in a wet environment). In turn the horn bracket is bolted to the chassis. File the regulator case then add a short #14 or #12 to one of the timing case bolts and don't forget to add some grease to stop the connections from corroding. While you are about it check to make sure you have two good diodes, each yellow wire to red wire should read 0.4 - 0.5 V using a diode tester. As for the relays, I see several mentions of loose base contacts. Look at the FAQ topic "Relay Base Repair", scroll to the end, I show ho easy it is to remove and tighten the connectors. I'm a great believer in the medicinal power of Vaseline (petroleum jelly), it creates a barrier against moisture and air, dip your wires in it before crimping them and never think of connecting a battery terminal without it. Great for sliding contacts like the ignition switch and relay bases. Has other medicinal uses also, great for babies bottoms (nappy rash) and reducing friction

I did mine a couple of weeks ago, I saw a post here recommending drilling holes in the rubbers to give more squishiness and leaving half out. I drilled a couple of 3/8 holes in mine but left them all in. It seems to improve the ride for sure. Update SMDL = I used a wood bit with the sharp points at the edge BTW I read a really good book by a marine engineer named Lamb, he points out that rubber cannot be compressed, it can only be distorted but takes up exactly the same volume. At least now the wedges have some space to squish.

Cliff, I realize the coils are grounded thru the battery, I should have measured to see if the secondary is connected to primary or the coils frame. I just figured perhaps the spark was somehow injecting back into the ECU and messing with the count somehow. The stock ECU has the same symptoms as MyECU so I know it's not that otherwise I would have posted on your forumn. Yes the ECU is well grounded. I do have my idle set slower than most ~1000, at what point does the ECU think the motor has stopped? Which spark occurs first after the missing tooth, left or right (sitting on bike)? I will try switching the coils over, see if the symptoms move. Perhaps I disturbed a bad contact but it's definately idling better with a ground to the coil frame. It never misses a beat off idle, I would expect a bad coil to act up more at WOT Cheers Roy

I posted that I was having a stalling issue also. Finally I got around to connecting a strobe (timing light) and I found that every so often it missed a spark on the right hand cylinder. I couldn't figure out why it should do that. I reset the position pickup which is supposed to be 0.7 - 0.9 mm, this had no effect. I thought perhaps the coil may have a problem. on checking I found 2 of the 3 rubber shock mounts broken and no direct path to ground for the coils. The spark is probably going to ground back through the primary connections so I added a ground wire from coil frame to the chassis. Although it's still not perfect the stalling is almost cured. Check your coils out, see if a ground helps at all. Cheers Roy

The switch is a standard patten, but comes with different connection options I currently have one from Radio Shack. It had an arm and roller which I removed. "Cherry" make a waterproof http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CH290-ND

You guys are a bit harsh, I don't fancy a chopper myself but I do like to see some inovation. I think the Peterbuilt looks quite rideable, twin front discs which I'm almost certain the donor T3 didn't have. Cheers Roy

I borrowed a strobe light over the weekend and looked through the hole at the ring gear. (2001 V11 Sport) All I could see was a few teeth, no marks that were obvious. The teeth advanced when the revs build up as I expected. Should I see any marks there at the firing position or do the marks correspond to TDC? I did find the right cylinder missed a spark now and then at idle which co-responds to the stall I experience. Thanks Roy

A couple more pics The frame is massive and beautifully done.

I saw this chopper over the weekend, Built by Peter a mechanic at the local chopper shop www.ivorscustomcycles.com I spoke to the owner, he sourced all the parts on e-bay, no goose was harmed. Very well executed with Harley Soft-tail rear suspension

Good questions. I have often wondered myself. I will be watching the response Thanks for asking Roy

If you find it's not the connectors look for a spot in the wire that flexes a lot as you turn the bars. Copper work hardens and will eventually break. Any time you have wires at a flex point make sure the bending takes place over a length of wire, not at one point.

My 2001 V11 Sport has a simiar problem, will idle nicely fo about a minute then miss a beat and die, I thought it was a sloppy timing chain so I borrowed a strobe light last weekend, I couldn't see any timing marks but I found the right cylinder misses a spark now and then. Same thing happens with the stock ECU Elevation change should be compensated by the pressure sensor in the ECU. Everyone says idle at 1100 but if I do that the engine braking is next to useless, besides it should idle slower.