Kiwi_Roy

I'm glad you got it sorted out. This is the part that had me puzzled "Now it gets weirder. If I turn the key to ON, pressing the horn button no longer causes the horn relay to click, instead the oil and alt idiot lights come on" These lights should come on when you turn the key or at least when the headlight relay powers up. Yes, Carls drawings do make it easy but I think the electrics are still quite a challenge for most. Try to standardize by using old relays out of the bike, that way you would have a spare and be more familiar. I use a couple of mine for headlight relays. The 5 pin Omrons are a direct replacement for 4 or 5 pin. Good Riding Roy

It's really tricky troubleshooting from here but thinking about it you say " If I turn the key to ON, pressing the horn button no longer causes the horn relay to click, instead the oil and alt idiot lights come on" I would try first to figure out why the oil and alternator lights don't come on until you press the horn button, perhaps once you have solved that the horn problem will become obvious. It seems to me the horn circuit is providing the 12V that should be provided from Fuse 5, the headlight circuit. Tell us a bit more about the horn relay you used, it wouldn't by any chance be a 3 wire type or you have a regular one wired with 3 wires would it? I'm thinking that with the key off you are powering up one end of the coil from your "Hot Wire", the other end is connected to the horn button (where the horns originally connected). When you push the button the power flows from your "Hot Wire" back through the relay coil to ground through some of the other loads on Fuse F5 for example the headlight filament. Actually I would be checking for a broken Red/Black wire between the large plugs at left and right just at the front of tank, perhaps where it flexes with steering, there are several spots where other wires are spliced into it. Check both Left & Right plug and sockets for corrosion also. From memory the R/Blk wire runs up the right hand side (throttle side) a wire splices into it and goes to the plug on left hand side another splices in and goes to the two pin going to regulator, (that's a good spot to check for 12V) then it goes to the right hand plug. I had my loom apart and found the splices were well done so I wouldn't expect any problem there. With the two large plugs apart and the two pin at regulator pulled check R/Blk wire for 12 V then we can take it from there. I prefer to use a test lamp, something that loads the circuit up otherwise a multimeter can fool you into thinking it's OK when you have a hight resistance joint. I have a headlamp bulb with a couple of wires soldered on but a taillight or flasher bulb would be good.

Just hold on a bit, I went over my scratchings last night and tidied them up a bit Will post them by the weekend Cheers Roy Docc, I sent you a PM regarding this.

That's good news, I think it's a common problem, not just Guzzi You should be able to locate another switch in Godzone, they are a common pattern. Cherry DCIC-A1AA, try D Smiths or a small appliance repair center, if you find one with a roller on you can take that off. For North America www.digikey.com part No CH290-ND $4.56 The one I have is an unsealed clone from Radio Shack, it seems to be holding up. It's the same switch for front brake on the V11 Cheers Roy p.s. I should mention, if your replacement switch has a third contact, just cut it off or cover to prevent an accidental short.

This doesn't seem to open on the FAQ forum so I will post it back here. If you are having trouble with your relays its possibly due to a faulty contact in the base. The attached shows how to remove the connectors from the base so they can be tightened by pinching with a pair of pliers. If the contact is beyond repair they are standard items that can be purchased at any good automotive supply store. If you are replacing the connectors I highly recommend dipping the wires in vaseline, this will prevent oxidation and corrosion. Vaseline on the relay pins also makes the relays easier to get in and out. I have also shown how you can add LEDs to the base as a troubleshooting aid. I did this with mine and find it most helpfull. The LEDs are wired to contact 87 so that they indicate when the relay contacts are closed, not just when the coil is energized. I strongly suggest you make a metal template for drilling the 1/8 hole so they all end up in the same place, not like mine. Hope this is of interest, Roy Here are the updated files. "Test Point Layout" showing where to test some of the wiring and what to expect "Relay Base Repair" showing how to remove the connectors for tightening. Also shows how you can add LEDs to brighten up your day. "Guzzi Wiring" a simplified schematic. Test Point Layout May 17 2010.pdf Relay Base Repair July 21 2010.pdf Guzzi_Wiring July 21 2010.pdf

Thanks, the 291 sounds ideal, I'll pick a tube up. I will try to stay out of salt water though, I get into enough trouble on the road. Update May 31, The regulator seems to be fine now, I will re-pot it this week. Before I fixed it I had ordered a bunch of heavy duty parts to build my own regulator so I will carry on with that project as time permits. I think the Ducati one is quite good but some of the parts seem a little weak. I tested the alternator and found it puts out over 25 Amps although I suspect it would soon burn out but I figure the regulator should at least be capable of handling whatever the alternator can throw at it. My regulator will use similar components (diodes & Silicon Controlled Rectifiers) only higher rated and arranged differently. Update June 16th After fixing the regulator I was still having battery problems. It turned out the battery I bought new last November was faulty and replaced under warranty. Now with the repaired regulator and replacement battery my problems hopefully are a thing of the past. As time permits I will carry on with my regulator design project using one of the old housings Slavomir so kindly sent and 50 Amp main components.

Well I finally got the regulator back together, hooked it up and it works great. The battery came straight up to 13.8 Volts from around 11 and it puts out over 10 Amps at 1000 RPM, no sign of any hot spots. I will test it for a few days then pot it with some sort of epoxy or silicone. It was a bit of an exercise but I learned a lot in the process, hopefully I will be able to pass on some of what I learned. Time to celebrate

Note: You are also jumpering the supply to coils and injectors, all fed from Relay 5 Guzzy_Wiring May 16 2010.pdf

No, it won't put out any power without ~12 V on the black wire, this powers up the transistors which turn on the SCRs. Just measure for 12V from the black regulator wire to chassis with the key ON. Slide the connector out just enough so you can connect the meter probe without disconnecting the reg. On my bike this 12V comes from the headlight fuse through relay 2. It's actually spliced into the same wire that picks up several of the panel warning lights so if they are working probably OK. Make sure your regulator case is well grounded, up to 30 Amp passes that way. A simple regulator test you can do if your multimeter has a diode test is measure from each of the yellow wires to the red wire, it should show about 0.5 - 0.6 in each case (red meter terminal to yellow, black meter terminal to red wire), this tests out the two diodes inside (one of mine was open) You can do the same test using a 1.5V cell and ammeter + to Y, - to red with the meter in series. Roy

Potting compound is everywhere Once I get mine working I will fill with silicone sealant

Check the socket, if the contacts loose will heat the relay Pump current x resistance = heat

Sounds like R1 not pulling in because of an interlock open Try putting the bike in NEUTRAL remove R1 and jumper the two large pins by poking a wire in the socket, that bypasses the interlocks and tries to pull the starter solenoid in. If that works look for a fault in R1 coil circuit. If it doesnt work it's on the contact side. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15718 One of the contacts in my relay base for R1 wasn't gripping the relay pin at all. Roy

Ah Yes, a dry solder joint, I found one on my board, either caused by vibration, not being hot enough or movement as it cooled. I'm glad you got it working again. Hopefully mine will work also, I'll keep you posted. Roy

Hi Raz, No the material in mine is semi hard, I just took it out in slices with a utility knife. Once I got some out I managed to work the rubber wire grommet out that allowed access to the under side (component side) You have to unsolder the 3 wires to diodes and the two SCRs as they stay with the case. I haven't quite finished the schematic, still have a couple of points to clear up. Roy

I have been having intermittent low battery voltage accompanied by other mysterious symptoms. All along I suspected the regulator and went as far as ordering parts to build my own (still a work in progress). In the weekend I pulled the Ducati reg off and thought I would remove the guts so I could build my new one into the shell, also try and find out what's gone on with it. I found one of the main diodes had come unsoldered from it's lead with obvious signs of arcing this would cut the output in half at least. Other than this obvious fault there seems to be little wrong so I soldered the diode back together and will give it another shot. While I was about it I reverse engineered the circuit to get a better understanding of it's workings, basicly a bridge rectifier made of 2 diodes and 2 SCRs. A regulator circuit turns the SCRs on as required If anyone has some old burnt out regulators around I would be interested in obtaining the case to build my prototype into. Please send me a PM Roy

Was it Relay 1 or 2 causing the fuse to pop? It would take a major melt down for a short between 30/87A to ground perhaps between the center and adjacent small pin. If you get a chance please run your multimeter over it and possibly remove the cover. Heres one source I use http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=Z2247-ND $4.82 They also have another part o Z2001-ND @ $7.60, don't know that it would last any longer though Roy p.s. I keep telling you guys to substitute a lamp for the fuse when locating a short, but I'm just as guilty one more fuse will fix it!

A 4 hour class, that makes you the expert then Seriously, that would be great. I have done some work with Oxygen sensors but that was for boiler control, same idea I suppose. The question is how do you apply one of these sensors, do you have to purchase a special meter or can you just jury up a circuit and measure mV out of it. For sure my ECU doesn't have an input for one. It sounds like something I can use to adjust the Power Commander map. Roy

I have to ask, just exactly what is a wide band O2 sensor and how do we apply it?

No, not sap, she is quite spoiled in below ground garage with a cover to boot. I think OldButNotDead hit the nail on the head.

I never thought of that, yes I did wash it down with the hose a couple of weeks ago, it's probably full of water. I will pull it off tonight. I assume it's held in place by the tank fitting. Just ignore me next time I ask a stupid question. Cheers Roy

Check for 12V at the tacho Check for continuity of the wire from ECU to tacho, there are two connectors, one near the ECU and another near the multipin plug at front of tank. This wire brings the pulses that the tacho uses to calculate revs. Roy

What are you trying to say, I'm drooling again? Could be tears of frustration perhaps

Don't rule out over voltage, I have seen some weird effects with my bad regulator, one of them cutting off and on with revs. I suspect there is something in the ECU that causes it to cut out if the regulator is overcharging. This would be very easy to check, just pull off one of the yellow wires coming from the alternator to regulator thus dissabling it for the test. As Raz says check the relay bases for tightness, I found one connector in my relay bases not gripping at all, it's well worth spending a couple of hours removing & tightening them up. Roy

Yes, that was my first thought, hard to define there's not enough to get a good taste, obviously not poison When I blotted it up looks like oil on paper. Mu thoughts were its spraying out the cutout at the front of tank and getting thrown back by the wind. It looks very clear like water, could it be a residue from unburnt fuel, I'm using about 30% more than I should. Roy

Looks like water drops but seems to be oil when I wipe with paper towel, i think brake fluid would lift the paint.