Kiwi_Roy

Raz wrote "I bought a complete set of GEI relays from PyroDan " Roy wrote "Another source of relays, I bought mine from www.Digikey.com Omron G8HN-1C2T-R0DC12 $4.59 ea from (digikey part Z2247-ND) They also have the Cherry microswitches for the clutch and brake levers Cherry DC1C-A1AA for $4.56 (digikey part CH290-ND) I just bought an unsealed version of the switch from The Source (Canada's Radio Shack)" no doubt I will be replacing that again soon. Sorry Raz, I keep getting the message quote messed up Roy

Raz, I think your latest post is a good compromise, it is an easy upgrade, just one new wire from the battery and some simple wiring inside the headlamp. I would say only one thing, you should use the same relays and fuses the rest of the bike. You might also consider one of the self resetting circuit breakers instead of a fuse. (recover after an intermittent short) If you loose F5 you will still loose all lights but it would be very easy to hot wire across to get you home. I came up with a slightly different circuit using 2 relays and the oil switch. One relay used as a change over so it fails to Low Beam but I will try to stay focused on the wiring schematic. BTW has anyone done a test to see how much voltage is lost between the battery and headlight on the existing system? Regards Roy

Raz, That's very clever!!!! Did you guys see that, he's using the Oil pressure switch so that the headlight doesn't come on until the engines running (the switch is left on low beam) He's added the two diodes around the relays so that each beam has a backup supply, If the main fuse blows it feeds through the diode all be it a bit weaker. My hats off to you Raz, I'm going to steal that idea. I had already figured out how to bypass the start relay with the headlight feed Roy

Yes, that's a project I want to do, I don't like the way headlight goes thru sooooo many contacts. I would also like to have it so the headlight doesn't come on as soon as you turn on the ignition. I saw somewhere someone suggesting two relays for High / Low beam. I will post how I added LEDs to the relay bases when I get time. I will be trying out an idea for offsetting the TPSensor shortly, that may be of interest also. Regards Roy Refer to the drawing from Raz 16-April-2010 under "Headlight Losses" topic, thats what I will be doing. His scheme gives the lamp 2 possible supplies, if the main fuse blows the diode will conduct and supply the lamp at a slightly reduced voltage. With this simple fix you could get up to 30% more light. Roy

OldButNotDead, Bjor, I have quite a bit more detail to add yet like wire colours, relay base and a couple of errors to fix. Later on I will tackle the lights and ECU wiring but as a seperate drawing. Can't promise a Norwegan version though. Glad you like it. Roy

Ok Guys, Heres my latest. I am not getting as much response as I thought. Please give your comments, good, bad or ugly Attachment removed, see first post in the string for latest - Roy May 18 Thanks Roy

It may be the switch contacts just making enough to power the light but with too much resistance for the starter coil. Take a look at the schematic I posted under topic "Simple Wiring Schematic". It shows the way things are connected in series If you have a multimeter you should read 12V at TP-h when you press the start button. If not unplug the relay R3 TP-b is before the Neutral switch, TP-c after. If you think its the neutral switch try jumpering from TP-b to TP-c with a short piece of wire thus bu-passing that whole circuit. A word of warning, make doubly sure the bike is in Neutral. Roy

Perhaps your relay base is at fault. If you unbolt it from the frame check that all the connectors are pushed home properly. Or perhaps the contact needs to be squeezed together a bit. You can slide the connectors out by releasing the clip from the top. I use a pop rivet nail with the tip filed to a chisel shape. I modified my relay bases adding an LED so I can see at a glance which ones are energized. I smeared the base with petroleum jelly, this protects the contacts from corrosion and makes the relays easier to get in and out. The fuel pump relay also supplies power to the injectors and coils. Roy

My V11 is the same, just open to atmosphere, I suspect it's just a standard regulator. If you connect it to the manifold the fuel pressure will drop.

Guzzi diagram calls it the Safety Diode, it stops the ECU Relay picking up if the battery is backwards.

My thoughts on it were to protect the ECU if someone were to inadvertently connect the battery backwards Your thoughts on the neutral light are noted It's almost impossible to get a schematic right first time through Thanks Roy

Hi Guys, I have been helped out a lot by some of you recently so i thought i might be able to add the benefit of 40+ years electrical troubleshooting. To this end I took the schematic for my V11 and tried to show in semi ladder diagram fashion how the main wiring is arranged. Note: I completely ignored non-essential wiring, lights flashers etc and the complex wiring around the ECU. Those can be identified in different drawings, I just wanted to show the wiring I think most of the problems occur in. Please take a look and offer any comments, preferably in a marked up drawing scanned and sent back. Regards Kiwi_Roy Many thanks to Raz, Docc, Gstallons and any others who supplied valuable feedback from here or by PM Ok, i have the right files now April 27 2010 Sorry Guys I just noticed that my ECU Test Points dwg was out of date Please replace with this one May 12 2010 May 16th Update I recently discovered how important the headlight wiring is, without it the Tacho won't work and the charging stops so I updated the wiring as well showing how the regulator needs 12 volts. I changed the relay style so that it's consistent with the other drawings and arranged the same as in reality. The starter motor solenoid now shows the 2 coil arrangement. BTW, see Raz's headlight relay schematic about 16 posts down, I implemented this, works great. Regards Roy Test Point Layout May 10 2010.pdf ECU Test Points May 12 2010.pdf Guzzy_Wiring May 16 2010.pdf

Bob, When you drop the pan, do you change the gasket each time? What do you use in the way of gasket cement? BTW, good picture of the hose clamp, I will follow the example. Thanks Roy

So that's what that loose nut in the tool kit is for, I have been puzzling over that. Thanks for the tip Roy

I feel guilty about all the questions I'm posting, I'm new to Guzzi. I have a good understanding of general topics having ridden British bikes and a Suzuki. And have some expertize with electrics. My Question Is there an after market oil filter cross reference, Fram, Canadian Tire etc My V11 has the large black round cover on the bottom of the sump. Is this just a cover over the filter housing or will oil pour out if I unscrew it? The cover needs a special tool, is this just part of the normal filter removal device sold at auto stores or a special Guzzi only? Thanks again Roy

I think you can also do the job with a flexible hose if the wheel is removed. I thought I had mine connected up over the swing arm but after removing the shaft I found the nozzle needed a flat on one side before it would slip in properly. A few strokes with a file is all it took. The swivel is a better way Roy

My V11 Sport (Canadian Edition) has several hoses connecting to the frame, 3 I think. I looked in the manual and parts list, neither shed any light, I assume this is some sort of breather system, can anyone elaborate. Thanks Roy

If you unplug the cable and connect your multimeter on the Ohms scale it should go smoothly from a low value to high as you work the throttle. Alternately it should go from 150 - 4800 odd mV smoothly. If not This has been my experience with other rheostats, radios, control equipment etc. Often the grease that's applied to the surface gets hard with age causing the wiper to loose contact. It can be improved by cleaning the contacting surface with a solvent of some type, perhaps electronic cleaner from Radio Shack. You may not have to pull it apart just spray into an opening (i haven't looked at mine to see how it's put together) It might be worth a try anyway before you shell out for a new sensor. Regards Roy

Next time it happens, pull a plug out and check the spark. Does the fuel pump fire up for a few seconds when you turn the key on? Try swaping the relays around, see if the symptoms change. I assume it cranks over OK Roy

Yes, I am a journeyman Instrument Mechanic. Manometers are used to accurately measure low pressures. A normal Bourdon tube vacuum gauge has a range equivalent to a manometer 32 feet tall so your setup is far more accurate for a fraction of the cost. I will leave my modified grease nipples in place and cap them off. Regards Roy

I have the parts manual, I will take a look, thanks, Roy

When I put mine back I just set it with the same number of threads on both sides, Even then there's no threads projecting from the nut. Can it really be that important to line front and back to the nearest mm? I don't like the sound of those 8 ft flouro tubes, sounds like bit dangerous. A 2 x 4 would be safer, flip it over and average the reading. Roy

Thanks guys it looks like the washer is supposed to be there then. The previous owner was very picky about such things. I will take your advice and service the bearing. Regards Roy Update I looked at the part manual today, sure enough it shows the washer. I think I will stick it in place with a couple of spots of silicone so it doesn't drop down between the fork and inner bearing next time the wheel comes out. Roy

I pulled the rear wheel on my V11 Sport to get new tires fitted. If I look at the axle it has shiny spots as though the bearings have been spinning on it/ The bearings feel fine but I am wondering if a spacer or something is missing From the right hand side I have Large flat washer about 20 thou thick with a large hole (about 1") Transmission Spacer about 5/8 thick (item D in manual) Wheel Brake caliper The picture in manual doesn't show the large washer, I'm wondering if it's supposed to be there The hole in it looks as though it will fit outside the transmissions inner sleeve. Can someone confirm if it's required. Thanks in advance Roy

Guzz - I added my experience to another thread on removing the swing arm. Yes, I think I could lube it in-situ next time now I have filed the gun's nozzle to fit. It turns out that someone had butchered the two pinch bolts on the front universal so I'm glad I pulled it out. Cheers Roy