Kiwi_Roy

Thats great news. To prevent future problems apply petroleum jelly (vaseline) to the terminals. This keeps the Oxygen from the metal so that Lead Oxide cannot form. Lead Oxide is a hard light grey insulating layer that mostly forms on the negative terminal. I learned this trick as an apprentice working on large traction batteries. Roy

Yes, you could easily measure it but that makes it more complex. The idea was to set the pot for best performance then square it all away later e.g. measure the mV with the throttle closed, remove the circuit and set the sensor to give the same mV I haven't tried it and probably won't get a chance for a while (next riding season) Regards Roy

Thanks Rachethack, I will remember your advice. I don't worry about that sort "What upsets me would kill most people" I woke up in the middle of the night and thought perhaps +/- 750 mV would be a bit extreme so I revised the circuit to show a series resistor to drop the voltage down to about 0.5 Regards RoyGuzzi_Trim_Pot_2.pdf "I have to figure out this file attachment thing eh" Guzzi_Trim_Pot_2.pdf

Hi, I am very new on this forum but I spent my working life troubleshooting electrical and electronic equipment. Seeing all the posts re Throttle Position Sensor I was wondering if anyone has tried adjusting the mV on the fly. The simple circuit attached would cost pennies and allow you to raise or lower the mV while riding to find the sweet spot. Once found you could then tweak the position sensor and remove the temporary circuit. I would just solder the two components directly to an AA cell and tape it to the bars. The battery would last several days with the components shown. What do you guys think? Revised sketch Guzzi_Trim_Pot_2.pdf Note re revision In hind-site the original sketch would have too many mV so I have added a 1K resistor in series with the battery, this will reduce the mV from +/- 750 to +/- 250 You could add a switch which will eliminate the offset when open and perhaps add a scale in mV to check the operation just connect your multimeter to the wire in and the wire out. None of the component values are critical. It is only intended as a temporary addition.

I assume you mean the fuse went when you pressed the start button, The only thing after the button is the clutch switch then the start relay. What is the number of the fuse that blows (fuse position from front of bike) Have you had any of the electrics apart recently? Roy

I found thet the 5 pin relay is a direct replacement for the 4 pin. My relay bases are the variety with slip in spade connectors. It's possible to slip these out by releasing the clip with a small nail so they can be replaced or squeezed with a pair of pliers to tighten them up. I will smear a little vaseline on the prongs before I put them in, this makes them easier to pull out and helps prevent corrosion. Roy

I just recieved a set of 5 relays from Digi-Key, $4.60 each. The postage to Canada $11.75 total US$34.70 I suggest you try to combine with a friend to cut down on postage My V11 has 2 SPDT and 3 SPST but I elected to go with all SPDT The 5 pin relay will replace the 4 pin relay without any wiring changes. The relays appear to be the sealed variety G8HN-1C2T-R RATED 20A for normally open, 10A for normally closed www.digikey.com http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch...p;x=17&y=14 Roy

Has anyone tried varying the throttle position mV while riding? It seems to me an easy thing to make up a pot to allow offsetting the mV +/- say 20 mV This would allow you to stop and move the sensor by an equivalent amount. Just a thought Roy

That is brilliant Arek, if you'll pardon the pun, did the indicator for the flashers work ok as well. I think the lamp color should match the colored mask that sits in front. I guess I will have to find another winter project BTW, have you tried out the low fuel light, in my V11 Sport I think it's a thermistor that requires a certain load. The lamp may need a resistor in parallel to supply this. Did you replace the Spedometer & Tachometer lamps also? Regards Roy Update - I ordered a bunch of lamps from Ultra Bright will update you once installed

I will take this on as a challenge, this sort of thing is what I do for a crust. I have been messing around with the idiot lights on my V11 and had the same thoughts as David. The bi-directional current for the direction indicators is not a problem, a bridge rectifier will fix that. As I see it there are two options, A) Insert LEDs into the existing sockets and wire the required matching resistors to the lamp-holders. Remove the existing lamp-holder base and make a printed circuit board with all the LEDs and resistors etc. on it. The advantage of A) is it would be adaptable to other light cluster patens. I will start experimenting with the different styles of LED available Regards Roy

You could try overhauling your starter e.g. new brushes and bushes. If the bushes get too worn there is a possibility that the armature is rubbing somewhere. Starters are quite simple or just take it into an auto electrician. I think the voltages you see are pretty reasonable. Roy

Cuan, That's a great story. Like you I just fell in love with a VII Sport. I doubt I will be able to turn it into a beutifull creation like yours But I will love it just the same. Regards Roy