Kiwi_Roy

I really doubt the starter needed replacing after such a short life, who knows what he stuck on. An OEM starter can't cost too much.
You did check the battery direction?
On re-reading I see you bought a D6RA2, that looks right but I have never bought a new starter
Please double check you have the right battery polarity.
What is the milage on the bike?
Do you mean a VII EV? Bassa or Jackal, all very similar 

You won't be able to wire thru the neutral switch, it's only 1 terminal to ground.
If you are thinking about having a start button close to the starter it would probably be ok. Some ignition switches have a spring loaded contact that may be man enough.
Think about using one of the older cube relays mounted right beside the solenoid that would keep the heavier wires really short. The relay coil wires only pass about 100 mA so they can be tiny.
Think about the safety aspect, the starter should be disabled by removing the key, kids love to push buttons.
 
 
Sent from my shoe phone!

I found several articles refering to 100 liters per hour
http://www.mgnoc.com/article_external_guzzi_fuel_pumps.html
 
There is aa good document referring to the early Webber ECU/fuel injection systems, I'm away from my files at the moment I believe the pumps are identical.
 
I wouldn't mess with the pump /filter order. As it is if the filter plugs off the fuel pump is able to relieve excess pressure through it's internal relief valve, I'm not sure what would happen if it lost suction pressure

I would find a handy bolt on the engine or gearbox to ground it too, the seat lock location is stupid IMHO.
 
Aluminium is a better conductor than steel any day of the week
Also the ground from the regulator or headlight area should not run directly to the battery terminal, they should also terminate on the engine or gearbox separate from the main ground. All current should run back to negative through the main ground
It's ok for the ECU to be wired back to the battery because it's not grounded elsewhere.
As one owner found out recently it's not a good idea to have an alternate path for the starter motor return.
 
I know this is not what's shown on the schematics.

But the starter engagement stayed weak, oh well, I think to myself maybe it's one of those weak connections I've read about on the forum.
 
Docc, you just solved the mystery.
Looking back at the original post czakky made
"But the starter engagement stayed weak, oh well, I think to myself maybe it's one of those weak connections I've read about on the forum"
 
Heres what happened.
The main large ground is disconnected so all the starting current has to make it's way from the battery to the front of the bike through the small black wire in the loom,
of course it can't handle the current so the starter is weak and eventually it let out the magic smoke and shorted to many others.
 
Czakky, trace the large ground from the battery, it should connect somewhere at the rear of the gearbox, it's probably corroded, broken under the insulation or loose.
As for replacing the black wire that did all the damage, instead of running it back to the battery connect it to the motor somewhere, that way if ever you get a loose main
ground it will not re-occur.
Back through the motor and the now re-connected main ground is a better path also.
 
I think this should be a warning to us all, check the main ground connection, especially if starting is weak, this bike could have easily destroyed itself.

I found this on their web site, they indicate a leakage of 50 mA is OK.
The spark you see could be the inrush current to charge a capacitor.
 
 
http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf