galaxiid

Yes. To make a short story long, early British Antarctic explorers were keen to investigate the anomalies present in the southern hemisphere and carried out a number of (often fatal) experiments with Emperor Penguins. The picture here shows Clissold (the expedition cook) tethering a penguin, which presumably was used for the baffles on the expedition tractor. If you doubt this, then there are pictures to prove. Just ask. Sir edmund Hilarry continued the experimentation later in the '50s on Massey Fergusson used in his expedition. MotoGuzzi, being in the tractor business, were no doubt keen to utilise the technology, but the British must have been reluctant to pass this industrial information on at the time. Explains the fueling difficulties on my V11.

Yep. That's only in the northern hemisphere. South of the equator, the lumpen so-called fly wheel spins the other way. s+PiN ≥ 2y /H20 - XOX = Coriolis Force MG never factored this into their engineering , so the springs keep breaking (see Tech Topics, How To, FAQ etc for proof). The same natural physics are responsible for the phenomenal speed of the West Cal Guzzi: it has a head start over our northerly barbarian bikes, as the equatorial middle-earth is turning at 1,040 miles per hour. The very same natural physics also determine that Enzo is onto a loser trying to balance his throttle bodies – unless he only rides the Donkey in a vertical direction from South to North, or alternatively, form North to South. Any lateral deviation will mean that one side of the Donkey is further away from the equator than the other and so the air entering either TB will be moving at different speeds and be at different pressures – all exacerbated by the fitting of custom gargantuan collector appendages to the TBs. A solution may be to plumb whichever is the far-side gargantuan air probe directly into the muffler outlet. That would compensate for any disproportion in air speed and pressure. In practice, a real-world approach would need to be taken, linking the inlet-outlet on whichever side would be statistically most in a northerly position on any given trip. Don't forget as well as water going down the plughole the opposite way (down here) we also have massive ozone holes which undoubtedly Guzzi didn't factor into their fueling calculations and 02 sensors for the 03 model Coffer Sport. Things are pretty screwed up down here...recently a flippin Emperor penguin swam up from the Antarctic and made himself at home on the beach here. If that's not proof of the above theory well I'll be buggered.

Thanks for the above. think I'm making progress with the fuelling. Got to grips with the PCIII which is working now. Makes a difference checking all three buttons are held down with left fingers, pushing left knee into clutch, turning ignition key and pressing starter with right thumb. Being a contortionist made a difference, will post something more positive for a change in the near future. Not sure if I'm all there yet but It's not all doom & gloom!

My 2003 Cafe Sport is a great bike....but sometimes it drives me nuts with glitches that are usually easily fixable (such as relays). When it goes well it doesn't just hum, it sings. Well at the moment it is singing when you give it gas, but on a light throttle it is missing & phutting (not so much popping and not backfiring). If anyone can help diagnose this please do, your 5c worth will be appreciated.... The bike has mistrals, PCIII and have just fitted a BMC air filter with the lid cut off. The TPS settings were checked and it was dynoed. This was supposed to be to allow for the new airfilter. Since I have had it back it phuts/misses at light throttle settings to the point where it doesn't run smooth at all after backing off the throttle into and out of corners, or just riding along at say 50kmh on a light throttle. But give it gas and revs and it does fly, no problems there. It also idles just fine as well. I tried to adjust the low range settings manually on the PCIII and the box didn't show any response. This is after holding down the three buttons, starting the bike and then tapping the low range button. Nothing changed. i don't have a P.Comp to connect it to either. I have checked the inlet boots because that has been a problem when they have cracked in the past. They appear snug and airtight. Could this be a PowerCommander fault? I've been told they do die. Any other possible causes? Presumably electrical or fuel.... It is at the point where the bike is extremely frustrating to ride.....bah picture attached of whats under my seat, if that gives anyone ideas...

Best book I've ever read: Hell Riders http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hell-Riders-Truth-Charge-Brigade/dp/0141018313 They were on horses though. going way off topic but hey.

Sounds good. Mine was galloping along extremely well at full power but phut-miss-phut-phut at lower revs. Various symptoms to diagnose. Fuel. Oh and the relays of course. Back to my hobby....

http://www.stuff.co.nz/oddstuff/5386534/Man-caught-trying-to-split-atoms-at-home Well my hobby is more challenging. just gave the MG a drink of meths to blow out water in the tank and it has died on me. Before I could give it a drink of octane boost/injector cleaner to make it run less rough. Bah

I'm sure there are plenty of snaky-threads here that touch on this topic. I'm about to dyno my cafe sport because it deserves it after two years of doing virtually nil to it. It runs OK but lugs a bit under load and spits and chuffs at low revs. I'm sure a dyno tune will smooth it out. I am getting the tps settings done as we speak. That is no problem. I am about to throw away the original paper air filter (35000km) even tho it is not that dirty. Want to fit a BMC or similiar air filter. I see Fast by Ferracci do a package which includes BMC filter and fitting brackets which means I can chuck out the filter box lid. All for USD $100. Anyone here fitted these? The bike has a power commander 3 fitted plus mistral mufflers. other than that is stock. Any tips or hints about what to do pre dyno and re air filter options appreciated. Thanks Chris http://www.ferracci.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=265

Good choice, good colour. I call that colour "port" but whatever tipple takes your fancy. Chris

I've finally got around to removing the rear wheel simply for the joy of doing it plus the bonus of shoving a grease gun up the rear universal. I'm putting it back together and went looking for any info in these forums on rear wheel removal and any tips or hints of what to do. I mainly want to know if you grease the final drive (pictured). It looks fairly dry to me but has a touch of silver looking grease on it. If it was up to me I'd slap grease on this fixture. Istruzioni per l'uso (Handbook) stays silent on subject. Can someone point me to a relevant link, I have difficulty searching here. Thanks Chris

Having had some time to go over all the Kiwi Roy downloads, they are most useful and are a big revelation. A good thing to know is just use 5 blade relays. That saves fussing over what to put in as a replacement and what to carry as a spare. Here is my understanding so far expressed in a pictorial: Fill in the gaps (plus other functions) if you wish relay # 1 Starter (only relay that requires 5 blade) relay # 2 Main headlight, also interrupts function of stoplight, tachometer, horn. relay # 3 Sidestand relay # 4 ECU relay # 5 Injection

Thanks for all the informative wisdom. Stupid me. Yes relays are the cause of all grief. I am interrogating and threatening a bosch relay for reasons why it refuses to relate in a harmonious fashion with such an exquisite motorcycle. I will check the links posted by Kiw Roy. Otherwise will post a pic of the relay diavels as a challenging puzzle for people to name the various parts in order to enlighten me further. Thanks again. Chris

OK I didn't realise that as well as the fuse the relay controls this as well. Yes relays have caused me the biggest problems with this bike, but the easiest fix also! (Replace them) Thanks

My horn doesn't go, neither does the main beam, nor stop lamp. 15 Amp fuse fine and dandy. Checked main bulb, looks OK to me. Is there something simple I am missing here? Oh the tacho still does not run but that is a separate issue and am about to operate on it with a hacksaw. It's an 03 V11 Cafetaria

Or "Maybe" whatever that translates to in Italian. MG do pretty well considering they are a minor manufacturer. The Griso, Bellagio, V7 (less so) all got the media hyped up to an extent. I'd put a Stelvio or Griso in the shed if I could. There are plenty of Griso's sold here in NZ which says something. A cult death metal thing maybe. But I also suspect many MG's sitting unsold new with dealers. There's always a latest and greatest on the block, only last month it was the Multistrada, now this week the press is wetting itself over the Diavel. Next week likely to be the latest BMW 1600 I guess. At the end of the day who cares, my V11 goes great. Except for the tacho that has quit but who needs that?

Previous response sounds more promising. The thread referred to above doesn't solve the problem, it refers only to dismantling the tacho/speedo units and painting the needles. The tacho/speedo unit on the cafe sport is a black (very plastic) "dur" branded MG unit. We dismantled and tested for a signal to the unit and yes there is a signal or current reading from the motor input. Which suggests the unit itself is stuffed. Not ripping into it until I can get that confirmed because it is all plastic and glued together. Anyway just looks like some circuit board inside it, peeking through a hole. Probably highly un-repairable. And expensive to replace.

All useful comments, I will follow up on the lot and get this resolved. hopefully a grounding issue only. oh the tacho is a "dur" unit on the cafe sport, which I assume is a veglia brand

Any advice on repairing or replacing a tachometer off a 2003 Cafe Sport? Or lead me to a thread if this is out there. The tacho on my bike is now dead along with the speedo (multiple cable failure) so I don't have any dials to work out what is going on! The tachometer is definitely at fault, it has been tested as dead. Is there any common fault that can be repaired or is it a throw away job? Thanks in advance

Excuse me if this topic is already covered somewhere else but sometimes info can be difficult to search for here. My speedo cable on my 2003 Cafe Sport broke about 3 inches up from the engine end. I had another inner cable made up because i assumed the outer was fine. But this new cable lasted about ten minutes into the ride before breaking in exactly the same spot. I am going to check to see if there is anything jammed at the speedo housing end (that it turns over as meant to) other than that can only guess I should replace the whole shebang (inner cable plus outer). The other thing I noted was that the cable is pretty awkwardly routed past the throttle and if not put on very carefully will tend to jam the throttle either open or stop it from idling correctly. Any comments on this situation? I also note hat it appears as cheap to buy a complete new inner and outer cable than to get an inner made up ($65 NZD approx)

http://www.ducatinewstoday.com/2010/07/ducati-999-beach-racer/ Or you can copy this 999 Beach Racer.......

I agree, could be worse things to do a V11, what if your mates are all going to Sturgis rather than Morocco? What then? Keep us posted on the scrambler conversion project. May I suggest Alpina spoked wheels for a start.

Quite a neat V11 for sale, can anyone tell me if the oil filter placement is a special? Looks like it to me. Can't read German so can't tell what exactly else has been done to the bike. http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/showDetails.html?lang=en&id=139226808&pageNumber=3&scopeId=MB&sortOption.sortBy=price.consumerGrossEuro&sortOption.sortOrder=ASCENDING&makeModelVariant1.makeId=18100&makeModelVariant1.modelDescription=v11&makeModelVariant1.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant2.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant3.searchInFreetext=false&vehicleCategory=Motorbike&segment=Motorbike&minFirstRegistrationDate=1980-01-01&siteId=GERMANY&negativeFeatures=EXPORT&damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&export=NO_EXPORT&customerIdsAsString=&tabNumber=1

ZGUKTB0103M111728 Wellington, New Zealand

If anyone has a MG bike stand (workshop stand) for the V11 as described in the reference FAQ, please let me know. Prefer sale ex OZ or NZ but may consider further afield. If you don't have one but know where to go to get one then let me know thanks Chris

Yes Rossi is going to Ducati next year, check attached image, if it is not a Ducati maybe a Ghezzi -Brian?