JR1967

http://www.stucchiluigi.it/eng/scheda.asp?Cod=PRR870010 Something that might fit?

Mine was a later 1995 Quota 1000 with P8, not available in the US until the 1100 with the 15M came out.

You need a Tonti timing cover to fit a Tonti frame. No space in a Tonti for the Quota throttle body and surely not with a filter on top. I put my Quota motor in a loop frame and had barely enough space to fit a flat K&N filter. The loopframe has a different timing cover so I ended up making spacers to fit the loop frame, no big deal. Check out my pics: http://picasaweb.google.ca/ratsnews/QuotaV7Project?authkey=Gv1sRgCOCn_PG9u4ibkQE&feat=directlink

Artikel aus Performance bikes Guzzilla Dynotec Moto Guzzi 158bhp, 105lb-ft, 168kg – from a Guzzi - what? von Olly Crick GERMANY'S Moto Guzzi tuning specialist, Dynotec, have produced a bike so engineeringly raw it's undeniably and exceptionally cool. It bristles with technical innovations and clever solutions to making a bloody fast bike from a lumpen V-twin motor that's been all but obsolete since the mid-1970s. PB met Guzzilla at Hockenheim, which isn't the circuit it used to be. Gone is the famous forest section, replaced by a long left hander. This is worthy of note because there's no starter on this Guzzilla (one of nine that currently exist). You fire it up using a pit lane engine starter, MotoGP-style, and I'm terrified of stalling this high-compression monster on the tight hairpins that link it to the old track. Not just because there's no way of starting it again, but also because I'm really scared of dropping it as the revs die away on the slow apexes. Dynotec began making Guzzillas in 1995 and continually develop more ideas for them. If you want one, they cost between 25,000 and 45,000 euros, depending how high a specification (and how much road kit) you choose. The engine,originally a 1000cc unit from a Guzzi Daytona, is bored out to take 100mm diameter pistons. With a new 82mm stroke crankshaft, the capacity is hiked to 1288cc. To help the airflow keep up, 5mm larger inlet and exhaust valves have been slotted in. Dynotec fit their own special camshafts and a Sachs racing clutch. The extra stresses induced by all this mean the crankshaft requires bigger front bearings than stock, the pistons need stronger Carillo conrods and Dynotec's own uprated oil pump is fitted to stop everything disintegrating. The resulting lump makes a claimed 158bhp at 8400rpm and 105lb-ft at 6600rpm. To force the maximum volume through the ram-air system (48 litres), the carbon fibre seat unit doubles as the airbox. The front bodywork, also carbon, channels air through the front hoops, straight into it. The Moto Spezial fuel injection is hidden behind the side panels. The software it uses was developed on the Dynotec dyno. It's a closed loop system, so it's clean and efficient, too. The exhaust is also bespoke and carefully developed. There's a straight through 60mm diameter option that eliminates the bulky collector under the gearbox and releases another 5bhp. The front tubular sections are made from titanium, the rest are stainless steel. The completely new steel chassis is hand built by Dynotec. The original Daytona item wasn't suitable or strong enough for Guzzilla's requirements. The new chassis has a 7cm taller seat height than the Daytona and a claimed 270 per cent stronger braced headstock. The head angle is 23.6 degrees and the wheelbase 1420mm, which makes Guzzilla's dimensions as sharp as an R6 and as long as a Mille R. The Dynotec aluminium swingarm is shorter than most at 480mm (a CBR600RR is 580mm), but Guzzilla feels stable at any speed. Front brakes and both wheels are PVM. Calipers are top spec with titanium pistons, while magnesium wheels save unsprung weight and enhance the handling. The rear brake is a tiny PVM caliper off 125cc GP bike and a Dynotec 180mm disc, but with so much engine braking, a rear disc is hardly necessary. The bike weights 168kg with everything bar petrol and is suspended by Öhlins front and rear. Dynotec worked closely with the swedish firm to ensure the suspension is just right and have mounted the rear shock without a linkage. Lots of wheel travel and shifting more oil improves damping, they say. The front 'superbike' forks come with a similar set-up to that used in the German superbike series. And it's works. Initial nerves are helped by slipping the clutch through those tight hairpins until I get used to it. The steering feels heavy to start with but the traction out of corners is phenomenal. The racing pattern l-up, 4-down gearbox made a fool of me a couple of times, but once the bike had my confidence I wanted one, and still do. Giving full power on the straights and tucking in behind the long fairing, you can feel every single throb of the engine. The sound it makes is indescribable, so I won't even try. But it's not perfect and that's what I Iike about it, it has loads of character. It still sways like any other Guzzi when you rev it, it's too tall and doesn't feel like anything else. The raw unpainted metal on view is great. And it says Guzzi down each side. Spend an hour on www.dynotec.de and see if you feel the same. OC Kontakt zu Autor(en) Zurück info@dynotec.de Copyright © 2006 DYNOTEC GmbH

Remember that everything discussed above in this topic has already been done and tried out by http://www.dynotec.de/. (no I am not German and/or affiliated). I did speak to Jens Hoffman the owner on several ocasions at BOTT races in the 90's and they do give warranty on their tuned engines for the street. They have been racing Guzzi's since the 1980's and have a wealth of knowledge. The website has a part that is translated into (bad) english and I am sure they can answer emails in english too. If you go wild with a german-english converter you'll find lots of useful info. Good luck, JR

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind!

Thanks for the replies guys! Sharperdill: I am already running on 36mm Dellorto's and use stock jets for a Cali 1000 as a base setting. Since the idle jets seem too lean for proper running I thought that my idle advance must be wrong with the TPS set at full throttle. And Raz's posted advance map confirms this. Raz: Thanks for your elaborate answer; it looks like I should shoot for a TPS figure in the 53.9-68.2 degrees TPS range to get a proper full advance number like 33-34 degrees. Problem is that anywhere below that nothing seems to even remotely resemble a carbureted Cali advance curve. I am pretty confused..... My hope was to find out what % TPS setting would work and then replace the TPS with a resistor of the correct value. I did a lot of reading in the post that you mentioned but I am not much wiser concerning my problem. Any thoughts? Thanks, JR

Thanks for your input, but just my two cents: My project is done on a very low budget, and taking the injectors off an engine and replacing them with carbs shouldn't require a new fancy ignition curve. I planned on ditching the whole FI system plus wiring loom altogether and sell it, but I first want to get the jetting done properly for which I need to have an ignition curve that is reasonably accurate. Hence my question for any info on the P8 ignition curves. Guzzi being Guzzi I know the ignition curve in the Quota 1000 P8 must be pretty much the same as a Cali 1000 with electronic advance ignition, since the cylinder volume and valve sizes are the same. I found those curves for the Cali in on-line manuals and have tried to compare rpms and advance figures with a strobe on my Quota project. It's just a lot of work and not very accurate and it would be a lot easier to know what TPS setting would be the best for now and be done with it. Once the jetting is done(I have installed a O2 sensor kit) than I can concentrate on front forks, rear suspension, swing arm angle, a better seating position, etc etc. It's a long term project that at the moment just.... kinda runs.

Thanks Paul, I suppose you mean the TCIP4 ignition? Do you have experience with those? JR

Just to revive this thread: does anyone know by how much a TPS changes the ignition curve and where in the rpm range? I am running a P8 computer with carbs and was advised to set the TPS at full throttle to make it work. I would like to find out what would change if I would set it at for example 1/2 throttle; would the idle advance change or just the advance from a certain rpm and up? It would be really great if somebody has access to the P8 ignition data for a California. Any suggestions welcome! Thanks, JR