javahouse

Hi Guys I have a 2006 Ballabio, and just fitted a new speedo. The new speedo has a male thread on the reset. Does anyone know whether the knobs are available as spares, or does anyone know the thread? Thanks Rob

Well... the V11's been languishing at the back of the garage waiting for some TLC for long enough. Had a go at it last week, and just been out for a fault-free 60-mile test - so it's fingers crossed I've got it fixed at last. And if I'm right, then never would I have expected a big lazy twin like a guzzi to be so sensitive to air leaks in the inlet. All I've done is take throttle bodies off. Strip and re-build with new spindle seals and centred the butterflies. I used the Yamaha seals. Easy enough job. Reset the TPS on the fly afterwards at 520mV at 1100rpm with the air screws open 1/2 turn each. Balanced everything up and it's great. Just thought I'd best tie up the loose end because it's good feedback if anyone else is struggling. Rob

Thanks, and apologies for late response - I went on hollidays. I read the article you wrote and sounds straightforward. I will order the parts and try it. Many thanks Rob

Hi Apologies if this has been done already, but are the bottom seals on the throttle spindle available and easy to swap. I've definitely got a small leak there, and seeing as it's still not running 100% I thought I'd sort it out. Also, is there a exploded drawing anywhere? the one in the parts book doesn't appear to show or list them. Thanks Rob

Well, it's been off the road for three weeks, so desperate tames and all that... I've ordered a new TPS, and if that isn't the culprit it's going to Twiggers in the back of a van. I love working on bikes, but I'm just not getting any clues with the Fi, and no-one locally is any expert. I could change several sensors before I hit it right. Expensive in monetary terms and time - as the summer ticks away. Thank God I have a 1000S to fall back on. Rob

Hi No, I read about those, not on mine though. There is a small inlet leak - seems equal both side and on the btm of the butterfly spindle. However, it was fine three weeks ago so I think I'm after something - maybe a sensor going out as richening the tps temporarily cured it. Now it's back. Can't ride it at the mo, too bad. Am I right in thinking then that you can't adjust CO on my ECU? ...also, what would be the effect of a bad air temp sensor. Mine checks OK (3 Ohm), but seems to run the same with or without it connected? Rob

Hi Got a Lambda sensor, but no Cat. Also got carbon cans? Is that a problem? As I say, this has just developed, I've had the bike 6-months. See photos Rob

Just been discussing this and the concensus was that you're wasting your time unless you either go for a raz and immediately test the CO or put a big fan on it. The mechanic reckoned that on air cooled engines, if you allow them to idle before testing the CO, the piston crowns expand and reduce the CO almost immediately. He reckoned 2.5? Don't know what the distilled wisdom of the forum is though Cheers Rob

Is it worth me pointing out that it has been fine for the last 2,000 miles and this fault has only just developed. I'll enquire about the eliminator though, there's a dynojet dealer local. Thanks Rob

There was a sticker over all of the original label, but it was paper and appeared not to have anything written on it. I was curious to see what was underneath; so I guess it may have been modified? Rob

Hi Problem re-appeared on the Ballabio. The ECU is Is this correct? Thanks Rob

Sure. I know it sounds like that. I put new bushes in the X-over and they're sealed OK. This isn't the odd annoying bang on over-run though, it's missing and jumping to the extent it's unrideable. Thought I'd got it fixed but it made a return yesterday. Cheers rOB

Went out for 10 miles yesterday and everything was wonderful. 20 miles this morning and it was just starting to play up toward the end. Just had to come 20 miles back and it's now shockingly bad again. Backfiring/popping/misfiring/kangarooing, and from all I could tell it was getting worse and worse till it got home. The last journey the degree of fault was immediately apparent and seemed to start from where it had finished on the previous journey. Back to the drawing board. Something's going out of range. Ideas?? Cheers Rob

Thanks for the feedback. I think I will (in time) go for the cut and shut solution as the headers are stainless anyway. Cheers Rob

I totally agree with you. Can I connect to the ECU with my laptop? Is there freeware (or software at least) to do so? and can you source the interface leads? Ta Rob

Just set the TPS to 320mV full closed. Air screws 1.5 turns, had to turn the idle down and idle tps setting is now 385mV. Feels even better. Silky (as a Guzzi ever gets!) I'll see what the plugs look like after the next decent run. Rob

Hi It's Marelli SEN-813 for Alfa 145/146 1.4 Fiat (loads) Fiat PN PDTS0032 or 7733001 I got mine from Intermotor - it's made in Italy and looks A LOT like the original. £28 at the local car spares factors. Rob

Aha Did see that, thanks, but when I read "This requires an AXEONE dealer tool or VDST software" I got spooked. I don't know or fancy using any local guzzi dealers, so struggled through. If anyone can recommend a specialist in Cheshire I may give them a go. Cheers Rob

Anyways Threw a new crank sensor at it, then new inlet rubbers (nothing wrong with old ones except superficial cracks) cleaned all wiring conns. Exhaust off and re-sealed all the exhaust connections. Had alternator cover & reg off. Don't know what else... and the problem was just the same. So I thought, lets try something different, so set TPS to 650 at idle. Wound the idle speed down to compensate. Increased the TPS voltage again and wound down idle. Set the air screws at 1-turn each. Everything balanced and it ran like a dream. TPS setting at full closed now 340mV. I think the gods just wanted me to go to Scotland on the 1000S. Which was great BTW. Posted the above just to close the subject, and to hearten anyone else tearing their hair out. Just because common wisdom says 150mV doesn't mean it's right 100% of the time. I think someone must've tweaked my ECU at some point. Many thanks to Graham and everyone else who helped tho Rob

Yup Mine seems to be doing the same. 150/520 and it runs like a bucking bronco. At 300/whatever runs silky (Air screws 1-turn). It's been driving me nuts for two weeks. Maybe June wasn't my month. Rob

Ref below... I meant hose #14 Is this what you mean. I just put mine in a cup of boiling water for a couple of mins and they slipped in fine. Clips #13 & #15 just come-apart and can be threaded on after. If it's the injector to housing seal that you mean, then I haven;t had cause to do that yet. Cheers Rob

Mine will slip in/out no probs without moving the TBs. Remove the clips first though Rob

Hi I have the Balabio V11 and it comes with a tricky sort of a front balance pipe affair. Have others had problems sealing this? My balance pipe is loose in the headers and it's fully tight/crushed. Does anyone use silicone here? or weld shut? or flange? Thanks Rob

That's good then, but a lot more than 30lbs Ta Rob

I'm thinking the TPS will be controlling the timing and the fuelling. And I'm thinking the banging could be a weak mixture and maybe too much advance too? (though surely logic would say the TPS would be retarding for a weak mix?) If the TPS is giving duff info I don't think it'd matter whether the original ecu or the PC was driving the injectors. If it's flickering to lean whilst the air throughput of the cylinder was too high, then flickering back?? Maybe it's the crank sensor... that'd make the coil feeds flicker too Dunno. I don't mind buying a TPS and a crank sensor and having them on the shelf really. Ta Rob