thumper

OK still at it , Still cough (bad at idle) new cam chain tensioner, new tps, new head temp sensor, did the tune up. Went all through it again all good till warmed up, unplugged the head temp adjusted the idle runs like a champ, just as it used to!! So now is this pointing to a ECU problem? From what I understand the ECU switches to a different map when the temp gauge tells it is good to go. Is there a problem running the bike like this, IT RUNS PERFECT!! Or is a new ECU in order?

OK the new TPS is in and the bike is much better, still cough at idle only when hot. My valves are set at .008 E .006 I. For those who have cured the cough what are your valves set at?? Or for that matter anyone with a bike with over 50,000 miles what setting are you using on the valves. I am worried that a larger valve setting will cause damage to the cam and the lifters. Thanks in advance.

Check to see the rear brake is not dragging.

We did have a nice sail, took my 82 year old Mom & Dad out. The old guy can still keep the sails full!

Thanks to everyone, think I have a handle on it, heading out now will be on the Chesapeake for a few days. Thanks again will be back on it Tuesday.

BIG 10 4 on reading ohms, does jump all over not linear. Took reading at hookup to cpu pin1 & 11. Looks like I will be ordering one. Where are you getting them?

Understood, 1200rpm when smooth, power commander reading and verified with guzzidiag.

Thanks will check ohms.

3/4 turn out

Question on the TPS. When hooked up to a meter if the reading is moving up as the throttle is opened, liner and not jumping around, does that mean the TPS is good? Or can it be bad and show no signs. This is about all I have left to change without getting into some serious cash i.e. throttle bodies, cpu, and who knows what else. For those who have solved the cough was it one thing that worked or a mixture of things? Warm compression on the cylinders 150 and 151 psi. Did the tune up, I am at a loss.HELLLLLLLP

O.K. so now I have the buzzzzz from the new tensioner, and the idle cough. I have a feeling it is the TPS.

Air is in the system somewhere, pull it through with a mighty vac.

10-4 I was a bit worried.

To all those who have installed a blade cam chain tensioner does the engine sound different? Mine now has a buzzing sound, kind of loud and increases in pitch as the RPM increase. Is that normal with this tensioner? I really don't want to go back in!!

She is all buttoned up, my wife wont let me any where near her cameras with my greasy hands.

Worked fine taking the blade off.

Thanks Chuck, I will let you know if it does work. You gave me a little bit of hope.

I saw the tool Chuck made to pull in the blade on the tensioner, is it possible to remove the blade install the gears and chain then install the blade on the post having already installed the base?

just found it .7-.9mm from a post thanks Kiwi Roy!

I thought I saw the gap to be set at .6-.7 mm is that correct? If not what is the #, changing the cam chain tensioner and the gap on my pickup is at least twice that. Thanks, chasing down the cough.

STP in the blue bottle 1/2 pint at each oil change very good zddp. Just me its what I do and sleep well at night. Used to split the bottle between the Ducati 996 and the V11. Sold the duck. Never sell a bike you REALLY like to a next door neighbor!! Glad he moved and took the bike with him.

Ducati had this problem, look up Ducati 996 flaking rockers. A lot of information. I sent mine to some where in Canada and they rechromed and hardened them, I think at the time it was 45$ each

This I know, I use a high dose of sea foam once a year 1/2 bottle to 2 1/2 gal gas. First time I did it took the bike out for a ride, started running really bad after about 10 miles. Back fire, sluggish, not responsive. Got home pulled the plugs and they were carbon caked, like a stroke. Long story short, took a few cleanings of the plugs, and the bike after new plugs did run better. My thought is as the carbon is being released it is catching on a hot point, the plugs. And a plus is the smell is slightly similar to race fuel, and who doesn't like that smell in the morning!!!

When the engine was out was the transmission separated from the engine? How was the hub, may be sticking. If the clutch was out was it correctly installed? When giving it gas and it is hung up does it slam in gear?

Hold off, the problem may be in the master cylinder, did someone mess with the screw that allows the hot (expanding) brake fluid back to the reservoir. Don't ask me how I know but if its been fiddled with it will lock up the calipers and when it cools it will be fine until it heats up again.