thumper

If you forgot to put the little button on the end of the rod it will be to short.

One overlooked part of the formula for a quicker turn in rider. Do a few track days on the bike before spending a lot of money chasing things that may be OK. It is amazing how competent a bike can be as our skill levels increase. I know it helped me.

If this was mine, I would take the harness off of the bike either find a new one, or unwrap the harness check and repair each wire then rewrap. It does not look good at all.

Sounds more like a cross threaded oil filter, missing or skewed oil filter gasket, or filter not flush to the engine. I would not start the bike until all work was checked over. All was good before, so you are loosing pressure somewhere.

And do not forget to remove any paper on the filter, also in a oil bath on a cheep filter will the paint stay on? You will know when the oil light flickers, and the sump screen is choking oil flow that it didn't. Your bike, you decide.

I don't know. How much filtration is required? Must be a industry standard that must be met. Would it be necessary to exceed that? O NOOOOOOOOO this is turning into a oil thread. I use a PS filter because it makes me feel good, and I hose clamp it.

A lot of debate on this I would not use a auto filter on a bike. NAPA sells PS (power sport) filters an do have one for our guzzies. The PS is supposed to allow more oil flow, and with all the discussion on low oil flow, how to check the oil and windage plates, I just would not chance it.

And after all that you still will not have the horse power of a modern sport bike.

I had my clutch plates separate at 16,000 mi. I put new ones in and I think at first they were a bit louder. Not as loud as a ducati, but after time either they quieted down or I got used to it. If the clutch is nice and smooth and is operating correctly why worry? What clutch did you have installed?

I Think it would be best to have it tuned as the intake and exhaust flow will change. You don't have to get it mapped it may be just fine. What are you looking for with the crossover? These are old, heavy, slow bikes that you can only get so much from by todays sport bike standards. They are a blast to run and a lot of fun, don't want to bash the goose they are what they are.

So no one does this as any part of their maintenance? Or am I treading on a oil thread that will include the much loved Olive Oil as a response?

Just put some new tires on my V11 Pirelli diablo rosso II Tires feel great on this bike, new tires always do! My question is what do you use for spline grease? Last bunch of times I used mobil 1 synthetic grease and it has done well. This time I used Honda molly paste as a spline grease any reason this is not good in this application? Thanks.

Check your fuel line pressure, maybe a cracked line in the tank. I think that model has the fuel pump in the tank.

May be the voltage regulator, a lot on testing and replacing it on this site. I had to replace mine.

Did you check to see the bulb is good and the bulb holder? Check the easy stuff first.

Mine runs on pods just fine, a good possibility that the TPS needs to be set. Take a look at the TPS screws do they look like they have been messed with? Some try to adjust for the pods using the TPS. Do a valve, plug, TPS, and a fuel filter change. It may be the fuel filter.

Could be the clutch master, long shot but possible.

On the outside, you can just use some black silicone on the outside of the dime to match your case cover. I just put in a bead of 3bond then pushed in the dime smeared some more on the outside and its been no problem.

I used a fix that was posted long ago, clean it op good, then three bond a dime in the hole, wait over night and done. Worked fine for me 4 years ago.

Or its a 2 person job, one to hold the bike up and level, and one to check the level.

I don't know what years the spring is a issue, I changed my 2000 at 20,000 mi. It never broke. From what you say something got hot and expanded causing it to seize when you downshifted then when it cooled all was fine. May not be a problem at all, check the fluid and the plug refill I would not worry to much about it till I drained and checked, It may all just be a one time thing and no problem exists. These bikes are a bit funny and sometimes do what they want.

If it were me I would drain the trans in a clean container and check the drain plug magnet, look at the old fluid and plug for metal. I think a cup low is a lot, need to find out where it went. May not be a problem at all, Have you taken apart and cleaned the shift linkage? Maybe its been a cup low from the last change if no leaks have been detected. I would clean the linkage and refill the trans and see how it goes.

No,you have it. Just find the notch in the spacer and tap (or bang) out the old then press in the new, freezing the bearings does help. Let me know if the left side bearing is more rusted and in worse shape than the right. I am thinking if the bike is washed and put on the stand the water migrates to the left side.

Not bad at all, the bore looks great. Just wondering any major work been done to the engine?

Some offer a active damper, in that the faster the bars wobble the more dampening pressure is exerted. BMW uses this on the K1200LT. On this bike if you take your hands off the bars and hit the smallest of bumps a front end shake will happen, the damper kicks in and it does not get out of hand, this I know. I have taken the electric damper off my 2006 cbr1000rr track bike because at high speeds going into a turn it was hard to flick over. I put a GPR on it and yes I have adjusted it at speed with out a problem. Thing is when you get it set to where you forget it I just don't touch it again. Normally if the front end has started a wobble something bad has happened to upset the suspension, give er a little gas it will be OK. I have a 2000 V11 and have put 20,000 miles on it and to me this bike is as rock solid as any I have ever owned, very predictable and fun in the twisties. Just my 2cents worth on the damper.