thumper

So how's it going with the clutch job? Been following this thread and was wondering if it is up and running.

Mine had some of the same problems. Twin plate, the rivets had let go, so the friction material was loose. I left the engine in place crabbed the frame pulled out the transmission.

doug m, just wondering if you solved your bikes problem and if so what was it?

I had somthing like that on mine. Turned out to be the clutch friction material came loose at the rivits on the plate. It would also at a stop in first gear when starting out it would enguage, slip, then enguage again. This is a known problem on the earlier bikes most have been replaced. Mine went out @ 14000 mi.

How many miles on the bike? Sure does sound like a failing fuel pump or tank not venting. Fotoguzzi's ideas are the ones I would check first.

I use the BPR6ES I used the iridium plugs thinking more money spent and a hotter spark= better. The iridium plugs got sooty and were not better in my bike. So I went back to the BPR6ES It calls for the resistor so thats what I use.

Down shift,maybe lugging the engine. My bike does not like that low of a rpm range. A happy engine is one more in its power band.

Each time I change the trans fluid I pour a little synthetic trans oil down the cable housing. Remove the cable from the back of the speedo, pull out the cable, clean and lube, reinstall.

Just wondering, anyone who has been running pods for sometime, has anyone had a loss of compression? Has anyone running pods had to rebuild the top ie. rings and jugs? Better yet anyone who has had to rebuild the top due to lack of comperssion chime in and let us know if you are running stock or pods.

When running above 3000 rpm you need 14.2 volts. If it were me I would buy 2 fuses replace the bad one and check the voltage. Get ready to replace the voltage regulator!! Use the second fuse after the regulator has been replaced.

Mine did the same thing, it was the friction plates they came apart at the rivets. A lot of info on replacing the clutch on this forum.

No seal there, its a cut out or wondow to allow rear engine main seal or trans input shaft seal leak to get out of the bell housing. Clean the area well, take it for a ride and see if the seeping continues. No easy fix if the clutch is slipping it will need to be replaced. May as wall replace the seals when you are in there. No not eppoxy use the case sealent and a dime on the leaking trans though eppoxy may work just not sure.

If the oil leak is between the engine and the transmission ie. rear main seal or trans input shaft seal that will cause a slipping clutch. If you look at the bottom of the engine where the trans and engine mate up you will see a little cutout on the line to allow a leak in the bell housing to escape if that is where the leak is its a seal.On the first picture that is the shaft the pawl spring and selector set on. I cleaned it up put sone tribond in, then a dime (it fits) more tribond on the dime and the leak is gone. This was suggested by another on this site and it works.

I have a 20000 V11 and had to replace the clutch at 16,000 miles. The plates had seperated the friction material from the disk. The rivits had failed. On mine it was almost like a two stage clutch, it would start to grip then slip, then grip again when pulling away from a stop. I think this rivit fail was common at one time and has been replaced by most already. Or could just be worn plates. Either way looks like your are going in,took me a weekend, get the parts together, crabb the frame or pull the engine, I crabbed the frame.

Was the motor cold or had it been warmed up? Cold looks ok, if it wat hot may be low. Less than 10% diff between jugs

The shims come in different sizes that is how the valves are adjusted and I think it is the opening shims you will need. Each valve on a duck has a opening and a closing shim.

If a Ducati rocker looked like that they would be recromed or replaced. Metal to untreated metal will wear quickly. I know the valve setup is very different between the bikes But it does seem odd that now the goose has somthing in common with the duck, FLAKING ROCKERS. I have a 2000 996 and had to have 4 rockers recromed.If others have just cleaned them up and reused please chime in and let us know how long they have gone and do the valves need more frequent adjustments.

That rocker looks a lot like a Ducati 996 rocker that did and does have flaking problems. They are crome plated on the wear pads. EMS will grind and replate a Ducati rocker they may do a Guzzi as well. Loose valve clearances is one of the main causes for the Ducati wear, I am wondering if all of us going to the looser world spec. on the valve adjustments this is the reason we are seeing a lot more tapet, rocker and came wear. Just a observation. What valve clearances were you running?

That should be enough time to charge a good battery. Did you check the volts at the battery with the bike off, warm idle and @ 5000 rpm? If I remember it needs to be 14.2V approx. at the 4-5000 rpm.

Dont know the year of your bike. Fuel pump in tank or out? May just need to have the fittings tightned or new fuel lines.

Small metal cup (button) the push rod sets in.

Yes I did remove the swing arm. The job is not that difficult just get the new push rod seals and dont forget the button when you reassemble. Take your time and be sure of the torque settings.

I did the clutch on my 2000 V11 a few years back. Did the crabbing of the frame,to pull the trans out the back take the porkchop off, I think the problem was with the right side. Do not mess with the swing arm adjusting lock nut. That way when you put it back together it will be the same as it was.

I put the vortex clip ons on my 2000 v11 think it is 53mm. My forks are the marzochi (sp). The compression and rebound on seperate legs. Works and looks good.

Put the nut back on and try a few LIGHT taps with a hammer. If you wack it like driving a nail damage will be caused. Good luck