Chuck

Ok, Folks.. I have them machined, and I'll start forming them this afternoon. Send your mailing info to the above email address. I'll get back to you with payment info. Paypal or personal check, barter for beer, etc. Cost is $53 for us, $58.50 for Canukistan, and $63.50 for the rest of the world, shipping and fondling included.

Hmm. That *could* explain the leak being on top. I'd not heard of that one..

I wouldn't think so, really. I'm not ruling it out, of course. This happened to me for the first time yesterday. The Mighty Scura has *always* started immediately when cracking the throttle and punching the button. My old Centauro was exactly the same. If it didn't get *any* throttle, you could crank it until the cows came home, and it wouldn't fire a lick. Yesterday, I geared up, cracked the throttle, punched the button, and it wouldn't fire. Tried all throttle positions from closed to wide open. Occasionally just a putt or two. Thought "WTF??" Acts like it's not getting fuel. Suddenly, it started, and ran normally. (!!) Hmmmm.. maybe an injection relay? I would think so, but the issue is clouded by my recent tune up, too. Fortunately, the Monza was needing exercised anyway so took it instead. It's *not* Rocket Science.. I..and you.. will figure it out.

Picked up the blanks from the water jet shop this morning. They look (and measure) fine. HooWee, that'll save a lot of sawing and milling. 1-003 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr I'll finish machining, forming, and painting them this weekend, with any luck at all. If you're on "the list" send me an email to 59dotChuck gmaildotcom with your mailing address. I'll get them out the first of next week.

Scud, I'm having a hard time deciding what is leaking. It seems strange to me that it is on top.

My Kid is way ahead of you. He was always a Duck guy, and said he was too young for a Guzzi. I told him to take my Centauro out. He was gone forever. I began to worry. I'd just done a major service on it. Did I forget to tighten something? He finally came back, and said, "WTF? This will outrun my Duck!" I said, . He has a GreaseO and an early Spot that he restored now. LowRyter has his first Guzzi, a greenie. He's..uh.. doing the math in my head.. 42.

10 hours one way for the Aero engine. I'm not in your league..

Ok, Paul.. you're on the list. Stock is at the water jet shop. No need counting chickens before they're hatched.. .. so let's wait until I get them all made before anyone sends information, checks, paypal, or beer.

HBD, young feller..

Naw.. it'll whine like a supercharger. Ok, do this. Before removing the sprockets, bring the S (snot dis side) cylinder to TDC ready to fire, as if you were going to adjust the valves. You'll see a dot on the cam sprocket and a corresponding dot on the crank sprocket. They'll be lined up. This is how the cam timing is set. Get them one tooth off, and you'll have a bad day.. but that is all there is to it. When you are reinstalling the chain and sprockets, line up the two dots, wrap the chain around both sprockets..and.. the oil pump sprocket. They are all keyed, so the oil pump has a screwdriver slot in front so you can turn it a little to finesse all three on at the same time. As I mentioned before, that little key for the oil pump is easy to lose track of. Once they are installed, relax the clamp pressure on the timing chain and you're done. Why not just cut the chain off and use a chain with a master link? Eeeeew. Some do, but I wouldn't think of grinding inside an engine. Also, there's a bolt that may or may not clear the crank sprocket when you try to remove the original tensioner. I've read of guys jumping through all kind of hoops to keep from pulling the sprockets. Just do it. It's easier and quicker.

Ok, here's how you do it.. Remove the three sprockets, make up some kind of tool to hold the tensioner against the case, and install the three sprockets and chain at the same time. Pretty easy. Edit: Oh, forgot. It's easy to misplace the little key that drives the oil pump, watch for it when you take things apart.

C'mon, Scud.. it'll fit. Trust me. Edit: Oh, forgot. It'll make you think you put a supercharger on it for a few thousand miles..

Axial.

Good idea. I still have a hard time imagining the noise they would make though.. and why it would start getting louder.

I hate to clutter this thread, but I thought what I found today might be instructive. First, a little background. I have had the Mighty Scura out in SoCal for 6 years and 14K miles. I *did* adjust the valves and change the plugs, but that was it for tuning. I had no tools or place to work at the grandkid's place. It was running ok, so why mess with success? I brought it home this summer, and finally decided to give it a tune up today. Imagine my surprise when I found the TPS set at 308.4 mv, and CO trim at +40. (!!) Set them at 157 and 0, checked throttle body balance (right on), adjusted the idle, and went for a ride. Throttle response was a little quicker, and it seemed that initial acceleration was improved.. but not much. Just goes to show you how far out they can be and still run ok.

I lusted for the Ippogriffo for several years. Never happened. I've heard rumors of a new LeMans from a couple of creditable sources. I'll believe it when I see one.

Thanks for the link, Docc.. I've never seen it.

Happens every time. HF must have found a cheaper supplier. Mine has a black oxide finish. I've pulled many blind bearings with it without issue. Or, maybe you're just a cave man.

Nope, I'd heard of it but never tried it. There are commercial "Seal Savers" that do the same thing, but they cost money. (Guzzi content)

I was showing Tim the difference between Ohlins and the Zook suspension at the Ohio rally. Traded bikes and went for a ride down a really rough road. When we came back, the Mighty Scura had a fork seal leaking. No good deed shall go unpunished.. At any rate, she's over due for seals, but I thought I'd see if I could get it to stop until after riding season is over. So. Get the dust cover out of the way. You don't want to push the dirt that will be on it up under the seal. 2016-09-15_10-59-01 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr Cut a piece of 35mm film about like this. 2016-09-15_10-59-23 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr The idea being to slide it up into the seal and with a counter clockwise motion drag out dirt, or as I suspect in this case a seal lip that has turned under. It's old. Go all the way around and out after a complete revolution. Pump the forks several times and wipe off the residual oil. There *will* be some. Go for a ride. 2016-09-15_10-59-46 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr Looks ok for now. I'll service them when the snow is flying.

I like that one.. I *think* the front suspension was upgraded from the Norge on the sports, but it was essentially the same bike without the plastic. Strangely enough, it has the same "top heavy" feeling as the Norge, too.

Ok, if you don't want to go to orthodontia, or many people pushing.. I lined Rosie's tank with Caswell's epoxy tank liner. That's worked fine so far.http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=62087.0;wap2 Thanks, and I may get to that point, although I've never been a fan of tank lining. I don't have any first hand experience to justify the lack of enthusiasm. Just wonder about cleaning, etching, slippery expanding plastic and probably a few other things. West System G-flex is something I might try. Although they don't recommend it for fuel tanks ( and neither do I) they didn't say don't use it, so I'm sure it would be fine, it's just that they haven't done any testing and don't want to assume any liability. I've used it in other applications (like fixing leaks in Hypalon tubes on a RIB), but would have to test it first with gas and alcohol. Great stuff and probably good for cracked side panels etc. I stand to be corrected on this, but I believe there was a class action against Ducati over expanding tanks (I think Ducati's situation was worse with tanks slipping off front mounts), but it was tossed because it wasn't deemed a safety issue. It certainly could be considered a safety issue with MG. With all those old farts pushing on that tank, someone's scrotum could fill with intestines! Trust me on this. Caswells is the shitz for plastic tanks. As far as I know, it's the only thing that works. I *do* have experience with other methods, btw..

Ok, Ken you're on the list.. that villa in Italy is getting closer by the minute.

Ok, if you don't want to go to orthodontia, or many people pushing.. I lined Rosie's tank with Caswell's epoxy tank liner. That's worked fine so far. http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=62087.0;wap2

Oh, another thing. *I've not tried it on a clutch* but if you have bled to where you have "some pedal" or lever, zip tie the lever back to the bar as hard as you can hold it, or hang a 20 lb. weight off the brake lever over night. When you cut the zip tie, or remove the lever, Viola! It's bled.