Chuck

I would think that if the spring was broken, the shift lever wouldn't return to the neutral position.

BTDT on the side of the road..

Thanks, Docc..

I was sort of afraid of that.. Ah well, I get to *fix* something.. Eventually.

Hmm, went to post this and it apparently went into the ether. Typing on a strange tablet, I no doubt pushed the wrong button.. but I digress.. Coming to a stop, it shifted down normally. Leaving the stop, it shifted into second but no farther. It will go back to first, neutral, and second, but that is all it will do. It's not the shifter spring, apparently, and the linkage looks fine. Has anyone seen this before? I've never heard of it. Fortunately, Dorcia had the van in camp, so we roared back at 40 mph for 40 miles. . borrowed a ramp, and loaded the Mighty Scura in the van. Any ideas? TIA

Just a heads up, and I'm certainly no expert on brakes..but when I rescued Rosie (Rosso Corsa) the rear rotor was blue, and seriously warped. The rear brake line had gotten out of the clip that holds it, and had been rubbed through, to boot. Decide it was time for a new rotor, caliper, brake line, and rebuilt the master cyl. Went for a ride, came back, and the rear rotor was hot. (!) I seldom use it. Hmmmm. One trick I use is to hang a 20 lb. weight on the brake pedal overnight, and I hadn't done that yet. That gets all the micro bubbles of air to go into the master. Rode it the next day, and it was fine. Don't ask me why, but I've read of this problem on the spineys, and it cured it for me.

YMMV. I had to take the brass holder off to get my Sport running right. Me too. I think it had too slow of a heat-sink effect, meaning it took too long to heat up and cool down under different conditions, so the ECU was always a little behind in fueling and ignition changes. It ran much better when I put a new, OEM blue plastic holder back in. While it is clear that having (or not having) a brass temp sensor holder can change the way the V11 runs, I am not sure about the notion that it slowed down the heating up and cooling down of the sensor. Having the plastic sensor holder, as opposed to the brass holder, more likely slightly insulates the sensor compared to the brass holder and allows for the sensor to always run a little colder than it may otherwise run with the brass holder. The brass holder would obviously better conduct heat from the head to the sensor but is incapable of being hotter than the head it is attached to. The plastic holder would likely insulate and slow heat transfer from the head to the sensor, resulting in a lower temp reading. A lower temp reading could result in a slightly richer mixture, often a good thing but not always. Thus, some run better with the brass, some run better with the plastic, depending on whether richer is better or worse. FWIW. It took me fully 2 years of fooling with my Centauro until I was happy with the way it ran. One thing I noticed was when I was caning the tits off it, I got *better* fuel economy than when just riding around. This was with the Creedon 5, Stucci x over, K&N's and Guzzitech mapped PC. Other things, too, but those were the major ones. There was also a hiccup (occasionally) at (sorry, Ive forgotten the RPM. 3400 rings a bell, but I wouldn't bet on it. I thought, "maybe the computer thinks the engine is too cold, and is enriching the mixture." Put the brass temp sensor on, and mileage suddenly went from the mid to high 30s to the low 40s. Magically, the hiccup was gone,too. I put 42000 on it before mistakenly hearing the siren song of the Norge. Everyone that has ridden it since remarks about what a great running bike it is. Just my experience, of course.. YMMV..

Filled the tank an put Stabil in it before the rains came. Put it on the work stand with a block under the oil pan to keep both wheels off the floor. Said sleep well to it..

Thanks, Phil..

Have you had one of them apart? The piston seats in the bottom of the bore and closes an orfice. If it doesn't seat, it leaks. It is a perfectly adequate test.

Not good. That's a sign of loose bearings. Does sound like the PRV is ok, though.. I'm hoping it is a sign that an important part of the gasket was missing - and that the bearings still have some life in them. Stay tuned for parts delivery, reassembly, and testing. Oh, I thought you'd already replaced the gasket, and oil pressure dropped rapidly as the oil warmed up. Carry on..

Not good. That's a sign of loose bearings. Does sound like the PRV is ok, though..

YMMV. I had to take the brass holder off to get my Sport running right. There must be more than one way to skin a cat..

Scud.. I haven't read this whole thread, but The final answer to my old Centauro's hiccup was a brass temp sensor holder. It also cured my Kid's greenie back in the day, and a couple of other Centauros that I tuned for guys.

I had heard about the importance of keeping the electric bits together, but I always appreciate a timely reminder. And I have previously installed the bonus ground wire. That job doesn't look so bad after all - but it will have to wait till the LeMans gets back together. Nothin to it, really..

From the left side. The handle will barely clear the muffler when everything is straight.

Well, I can't do it and take pix at the same time, but basically stand the bike vertical or a little toward you and fit the stand notch on the nut you can see using the handle in your right hand. Peer over the seat and see where the stand is in relation to the opposite nut. Get it close, still using the handle with your right hand. Push the handle down a little, and you'll feel it engage. (or not) This will also move the bike more to the vertical. Be ready for that. No need to let it fall over on it's right side. One last look to make sure it is engaged, and push the handle down. Nothin to it.

Is it an 1100 cc V-twin snowblower? I've appreciated your past tool recommendations, such as the Pit Posse wheel bearing remover (works like a charm). Could I trouble you for a suggestion about exactly what rotor removal tool to get? BTW - I ordered a timing cover gasket today. No rotor removal tool needed on the Ducati alternator. It'll come right off. Keep the rotor and stator together, it's a permanent magnet alternator, and can lose it's ju ju if the rotor and stator are separated for an extended period. You *do* know about the external ground wire to the regulator on this system, right?

Ok, I've read the whole thread, now. Thought you were just asking how the PRV worked. I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings, but as I've said many times, "If you look for problems on an old machine, you *will* find them." If that tab on the gasket has been missing for a long time.. I'm betting it has because of the abnormal wear on the thrust washers.. it could very well have had low oil pressure for an extended period. If so, your bearings "might" be toast. What I would do is check the PRV. Put the new gasket on. Check oil pressure. Pressure ok? You probably dodged a bullet. Still low? *Now* it's time to investigate the bearings. Report back before doing that.

Scud, here's how the pressure relief valve works. This is a small block PRV from the Aero engine conversion, but they work the same.. Nothing but a piston closed by a spring. The washers control spring pre load. Simple.. but.. Here's a quicky test rig I made up. Pressure is controlled by an unseen regulator. The Lario PRV blew off at 20 lbs. (!) Washers made very little difference. I used some fine lapping compound, and lapped the piston into the orfice. Viola! 75 lbs. Need I say to clean the lapping compound out very well? I would look here, first.

Yeah, but he had to get a real job.. I think the combo of Guzzi and Ural put him under.

Both. I live near Elwood on a farm. Bikeseamus kept emailing me about various V11s he had found here and there, asking if they were worth the money, and I told him.. for that price, you could have Rosie. "Sold." Oops. Yeah.. I'll be around. There are several Guzzi guys in Indiana that I haven't met, yet..

Hey, Scud and Rox.. here's a couple of more pix from roads we never explored at all. There are many.. As you said, pictures don't do them justice. I don't normally go out on weekends or holidays..why fight the traffic.. but it suddenly dawned on me that this trip will more than likely be the last time the Mighty Scura will see real twistys. (!) I'll probably go out Saturday and Sunday, too. Strangely enough, there weren't any soccer moms in the canyons today..

Well, I'm late (as usual) to this thread. Haven't been here lately, I've been doing the Aero Engine in a Lario thing. Sold my Rosso Corsa because I found when I opened the garage door I'd back out the Lario mot of the time. Besides that, I'll be taking the Mighty Scura back to Indiana this summer and bringing out an MZ Skorpion for the hills. It was a good time, of course. Great to have met Scud and Rox. I just tried to give them an overview.. there are some wonderful roads in these hills. Uh, yeah.

Yep..