Chuck

Yep.

Ahh, a true Guzzi Guy.

I would just change all the fluids, adjust valves, sync throttle bodies, etc. and ride the crap out of it. It's been sitting a long time, and you may just have some sticking rings. Some Marvel Mystery oil in the gas (upper cylinder lubricant) can't hurt. I see this sort of thing all the time in airplanes that sit a lot. No need for surgery, yet. Check back after a few hundred miles.. if it is still acting up, it's time for a leak down compression test to see what is going on.

Filter tightness or looseness may be one of those enigmas that are unsolvable by the mind of mere mortals. I had one hell of a time changing the filter on the Mighty Scura this time. The gasket tore off the filter before the filter came off. There was no way Superman could have removed it via the sump hole. Who put it on last time?? Me. Same way I always do it.

Thanks for the advice - I think I'll decline the Tenni - I wouldn't have the patience / tools / skill to tackle this job, it would be not financially worth the risk etc. I think that's a good decision if you can't do the work. Look for any LeMans or the 03-04 V11s.

Ventura luggage system (or just the racks) for a V11S.

Thank-you all for your considered replies, they put my mind at rest at least until I took the bike out this evening. It would not change out of first gear! I really annoyed the neighbours coming home! Off to seach the forums once again ......... Not shifting out of first gear is another thing entirely. *Assuming* your linkage is ok, it'll be a broken return spring on the transmission. There is plenty of info on this list on fixing that..

Simple, effective.

:grin:

No production manufacturing process is perfect. This is truly a weird failure, though. You would *expect* the rod bolt to fail, but this doesn't appear to be the case. I don't think I'll be worrying about Rosie or the Mighty Scura doing the same thing..

The impact driver you need is a hand tool, not an air tool. You hit it with a hammer (I use a mini sledge hammer) and it applies a twisting motion in addition to the impact force of being hit with the hammer. They are relatively cheap to buy at any store that sells tools. If you are applying the heat to the outside of the wheel with a propane torch I don't think you could heat the rubber wedges inside the wheel up hot enough to melt. Just apply the heat to the wheel itself where the bolts screw in to, not to the bolt it self. Impact drivers are required equipment if you're going to work on a motorcycle. Don't cost much. The brass or copper hammer you use to hit it with costs more.. Heat those suckers to soften the thread locker, whack it with the impact diver, unscrew it. Nothing to it.

Hey! A rubber chicken is all right, innit?

If it were mine, I think I'd be firing up the lathe and making some delrin bushings.. dunno.

Well, I have 2 of em, so I must like them, too..

Really........... no one with a prestine low milage rosso out there........ Im a nice person. Pics if you dare. PM me The only low-mileage NC or RC models I've seen online have been DECIDEDLY less than pristine (crashed): it seems to me that the folks who payed extra for the good suspension parts & fancy paint jobs really like to ride'em not hide'em! Good luck on your search! Aw........... Its a big world out there,me thinks some ones hiding one!! Pm . me if you want to keep a secret...... I wont tell. regards; There was a girl on the east coast, Ga, I think, that was trying to sell her dad's (RIP) Rosso. I was watching it on Craigs list. She started at 12K and had come down to around 10 or so when Ebay shut down the Craigs list search engines. Don't know if she sold it or not, but maybe it's a clue for your hunt.. Rosso's and Neros are scarce. Trust me. Pristine ones are almost non existant.

To the best of my knowledge, the only way to swap the early white face Vag with the ITI is to use the gear drive from a 5 speed. They're a different gear ratio. Now, maybe the V11 Vag is the same gear ratio, but *I think* the threads on the back of the tach are different. I'd make sure before going ahead, at any rate.

I have heard about synthetic possibly damaging the plastic retainers on the transmission input and output shaft in early 90s Guzzis.That said, I just filled the Scura transmission and and rear drive with Redline.

Why don't you ping him? Todd@Guzzitech.com

If you have it *exactly* on TDC, it won't blow the piston down.

Aircraft mechanics use a leak down tester to determine an engine's condition at every annual inspection. It's used by bringing the cylinder up on TDC on the compression stroke, and applying 80 psi to the unit by adjusting the regulator on the left. The air goes through a metered orifice, and the second gauge shows the amount of leakage. Naturally, a perfect cylinder will show 80/80. That almost never happens. 10% leakage would be 80/72, and is fine. Investigation begins when a cylinder is under 80/70, although that is not necessarily bad. The good thing about this is this: If you listen to the exhaust, you can tell whether an exhaust valve is leaking, at the carb for intake valve, or at the engine breather, rings. Simple, no? And a much better way of ascertaining engine condition than a "compression gauge." It's $50-100 at aircraft suppliers.

Did you buy Derek's?

Hope you have a boat.

Damn it's nice being spoon fed; thank you. I just dug out my CA schematic and noticed it's for a 1999 model. My 2003ish owner's manual tells the other, less happy story. Sorry if I've missed this, but is the solution a fused hotwire to pin 30 on the starter relay? I occasionally need to thumb the start switch more than once, and none of my attempts to rejuvenate switches/contacts/starter have cured it. That may very well be the solenoid itself that is sticking. Pull it off and clean it. Betcha a dollar that will cure it.

More good stuff.. Thanks!

This.