Chuck

I'm at my wit's end. After hooking up a fused wire to pole 30 of the start relay, the oil pressure light is on with the switch off. All I did was that and clean/lube the ignition switch. Thinking I must have put the switch together incorrectly, I took it apart again.. and again. It certainly appears to be assembled correctly according to some pix on this site. When I turn on the key, everything works. Starter cranks and it runs. Oil pressure light goes out. Shut it off and the oil pressure lights again as soon as oil pressure falls enough to trigger it. Why is that circuit hot all the time?? What I don't know about electricity would fill a couple of volumes..

While I'm fooling with doing technical electrical work on the Mighty Scura, I thought I'd address this issue. It's 17 years old, now.. From looking at the schematic, it looks like I could just run a wire from Fuse F3 to the 30 post on the start relay and save yet another connection to the battery post. Is this a logical thing to do? TIA

Yep. Most of the time, it's the simple stuff..

Pretty much. Fuse 4 feeds the ignition switch, then about everything else on the motorcycle. Maybe I'll just put a penny in it.. Oh, and while I have it on the lift, is there any reason I can't piggy back a lead from Fuse 3 to the 30 pin on the start relay? That looks like an easy way to get some serious power to the starter..

Yeah, you're right, Docc. I'll overhaul the ignition switch. It's an easy job. It's no guarantee that it will fix it, though. I still think I'll buy a couple of spare fuses..

Eewww, that's ugly. That's *not* an airworthy connection.

This one won't be so easy, I'm thinkin.. from maintenance log: This is the fuse that blew Thursday. Maybe I'll just buy a couple more? At 4 years per fuse, that might just do it..

What causes fuse 4 to blow over time? Looking back through my records, I see that it failed when I was out in SoCal several years ago. It just failed again while cranking. Out in SoCal, it failed when coasting to a stop.. <scratching head>

You can pack the bars with 38 special boolits, fishing sinkers, etc. Add some Pro Grips gel, and you're golden.

To see where the main battery ground goes. It's hidden under it. I'd serviced it back in SoCal during the Pleistocene, but had forgotten. Had a dead bike syndrome, and just *knew* it was the main ground. That wasn't it. No fone service in SW Wisconsin, so I couldn't look here, or download a schematic. I didn't even have a volt meter with me.. after all, the Mighty Scura is the most reliable motorcycle I've ever had. It was an interesting experience anyway. Got to meet some new people..

Nice, Tom..

Lucky Phil would say otherwise, but it's too gaudy for me.

Just a heads up. If you should happen to need to remove a side cover in BF Wisconsin, the Guzzi tool kit doesn't have one.

I've loved those from when I first saw one.. be still, my beating heart.

This weekend. Free beer. (Guzzi content) Good beer, too.. generally 10 or more micro brews on tap thurs-sun. Great riding in the bucolic driftless region of western Wisconsin. Oh, yeah.. Wisconsin cheese and brats.. (always wanted to use that one) Plenty of characters to hang with.

I learned the hard way that if you have a USB gizmo hooked up to a battery, it will kill it dead as a mackerel if you forget to unhook the USB gizmo and let the bike set over a period of time.

I wouldn't need it back.

What I could do is send you the one off of the Mighty Scura, and use one of my non QC approved blanks, form it up and save it for myself. It would have to be after the Wisconsin rally, though. Maybe later this fall after the rally season is over?

I have three of the original prototypes that I hand made if Scud is out.

Wow. I'm surprised at that. Did Ron K get his? We talked at the Virginia rally, and he said he'd get with you..

So *that's* what that cable thing is for..

That sounds like the Mighty Scura. The light starts coming on around 160-165 miles. There is a little less than a gallon useable at that point.

Since you have nothing to lose at this point.. try this.. Take your Copper Hammer and a small prick punch, and put a gazillion punch marks around the ID of the bore. Leave the outer 1/8" unmarred so the bearing will start straight. Lube the outer race, (Lubriplate is good) and press that bad boy in there. The worse thing that can happen is you will have to sleeve it anyway, and this will probably work.

Internal spacer length should be 113mm.

Pulling off the lead and grounding it will test the bulb. Uh.. with the key on. Checking resistance between the two wires on the sensor will show *some* on a good one, probably open on a failed one. It's a thermistor, and resistance varies with temperature.