Chuck

FTFY.

^^^^^Naa, it takes about an hour for fork seals on Ohlins. Where they hose you is on Ohlins oil.. Edit: I did a tutorial here.. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19782&hl=+ohlins%20+fork%20+seal&page=2

Yer in a heap o trouble, boy..

Yes, it's an 04. The 10th digit designates the year. Soul. Yep. "If I have to explain, you wouldn't understand.."

Well, the next thing to do is I'll make up a couple to send to Scud for "real world" testing to make sure they'll work in the bike. He said early on, though, that he didn't want to be a spring purveyor.. and I don't blame him. I spent a *lot* of time doing paperwork on the Lucky Phil shifter extenders. Out of country is the worst with having to fill out customs declarations in triplicate, taking them to the post office, and waiting while they fill out customs declarations in triplicate. (!) He mentioned maybe having MG cycle stock them.. but I don't know if they ship over seas. It's still too early to worry about that, though. We'll have to wait until Scud gives the yeah or meh. ps, if we order 20,000 we can get them for $.09 each.

Thankya thankya Hopefully, what we've collectively learned will work. I'm passing the baton to Scud.

What material? Part of this is by design, maybe.. but much of that is there just isn't a skilled workforce any more. At least here in the states. Manufacturing went overseas in the 80s and 90s, and there weren't any young people joining the trades. Chrysler has been bugging a friend to come be a tool and die maker for them, and he's in his 60s. (!) They can't find any one.. Well, I don't know about the fairy thing, but you lucked out, there all right.. Like This

16mm is .630" especially, if it is *over* 16mm like Footgoose says, it would break. Honestly, I'm getting tired of doing this. I haven't kept track but have many hours in it. I hope it works. If it doesn't, we'll have to explore the coil spring, but getting something together that the average home mechanic could install would be difficult, at best.

Sounds epic..

One other thing: I moved the lever out so there was only about 1/16" of the end of the spring riding on it to test whether it would break there. That is the other place the stock spring breaks. I think I can say with reasonable certainty that this spring won't break. Will it work? It certainly works fine in the preselector on the bench. It's still TBD whether it works in the real world. 2017-12-02_10-52-07 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

Alright, stress test complete. 250,000 down and up shifts without issue on the spring with 28 degrees preload. (over stressed) Here is my report from the reliability lab. This is what I'll recommend. .071 dia. spring with 2.45 active coils. The spring calculator says this spring has 62.5 degrees safe travel. Total travel of this spring in service is 39+15= 54 degrees. Max safe torque of this spring is 6.8 inch lbs. At 54 degrees, this spring generates 5.88 inch lbs. At 54 degrees it's inner diameter is .622" The post it rides on in the Guzzi part is .590" diameter. (15mm) Shouldn't be any coil binding. Now, it needs to go to the Winter Desert Proving Grounds in the deep southwest for "real world" testing to see if it actually works. I'll make up a couple and send them out to our test engineer, along with the preselector, early next week.

I've never even seen the inside of one of those boogers, but Shirley the shims and spacers could be fabricated? Or are they more complicated than that?

Yeah, I just cracked up the first time I saw it. In related news, 155520 downshifts and upshifts on the seriously overstressed .071 spring as we speak. I'll let it run a while longer and test it to see if it's lost it's ju ju.

I very seldom watch movies.. and almost never watch one again. I've seen O Brother several times. One of my all time favorites.

"We.. thought.. you was a toad.." Gotta watch them si reens.

Ok, back at it. It was too cold to play this morning. Welded a couple of wear pads on the lever, and am currently testing the limit of the .071 spring wire. It has 28 degrees of preload, and maximum safe travel is 60 degrees, according to the spring calculator. 28+39=67, so we'll see if this sucker breaks or takes a set. The Guzzi 080 spring with 1 1/2 coils has 1250 grams of pressure on the pawl in neutral, and essentially nothing at the limits of the upshift. This spring has 1150 grams in neutral and I haven't measured at the limit of travel, but it's substantial. The .071 spring with 5 degrees preload has 700 grams of pressure, and still has positive pressure on the upshift. I'm thinking that we'll probably end up with an .071 spring with 10-15 degrees preload. We'll see how well the over stressed test works out. 2017-12-01_12-05-29 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr I hear the Scura calling. Time to go for a ride.

Docc's method worked a treat for me. The Odyssey battery on the Aero Lario had "issues." No more. Discharged it, blasted it with 10 amps for an hour or so. It's been fine ever since.

Well said. Believe me, brother.. I feel your pain, and know *exactly* what you are talking about.

this engine is amazing. When I bought the project, it had the original engine. 1800 hours since new, 300 since a top overhaul, and had been sitting for years. Because of the cam sitting high in the case, they rust cams and lifters when not in use. It was of practically no value. cheap. (Guzzi content) I pulled it apart, cleaned light surface rust off the cam and lifters, reassembled with all new gaskets, put an oil filter mod on it, and it runs like new. Burns a quart in 14 hours. Doesn't leak. (!) Sometimes, you get the bear.. Sound like you got a good one there Chuck, unlike the old P&W radials I worked on as an apprentice. They used to leak more oil than they burnt. If they weren't leaking you got worried:) Ciao Oh, I have a radial in the shop. It's a 90 hp Lambert. 1930. It was overhauled, test run, oil drained and pickled in the late 90s. Supposedly, there's no oil in it, but there are a *lot* of oil spots under it.

this engine is amazing. When I bought the project, it had the original engine. 1800 hours since new, 300 since a top overhaul, and had been sitting for years. Because of the cam sitting high in the case, they rust cams and lifters when not in use. It was of practically no value. cheap. (Guzzi content) I pulled it apart, cleaned light surface rust off the cam and lifters, reassembled with all new gaskets, put an oil filter mod on it, and it runs like new. Burns a quart in 14 hours. Doesn't leak. (!) Sometimes, you get the bear..

Candy is dandy, but likker is quicker. I've never tried the rose thing..

I can send you my best guess spring if you want to do some real world testing. Right now, I'm riding (fabulous day today) and doing an annual inspection on the Colt. My lovely assistant helped me get the cowling off without damage this afternoon to start on the "powerplant" part of the inspection. 2017-11-29_08-08-00 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

Sorry, I've been slackin today.. and will continue slackin until this stretch of warm weather goes away.

Well.. she *is* Italian.

One thing that is difficult to design against is vibrations. Could the spring buzz itself to death? Are there any wear marks where the spring sits in the shifter mechanism? If, for example the spring resonates at 4000rpm, then the fatigue cycle count could get into very high numbers without much shifting. Changing the resonance frequency could make a steel spring last forever if the design stresses were below the fatigue limit. A resonance change could come from different thickness wire, different length spring, different oil in gbox. Just a thought. I know it doesn't help your design, but it may explain why you can't break that spring by shift cycles alone. Interesting thought, but beyond my meager ability to test. Wear marks? Very subtle. I had to look at the used one with a 10X glass to make sure it wasn't new when I first looked at it. Then, when I took the new one out of Scud's preselector, I could see the old one was sacked when placed side by side.