Chuck

Check's in the mail. Oh. You've heard that one?

Uhh, the original premise was.. I might have been the first to add an opinion. Sorry.

Hey! I have an RC.. even cooler.. Rubber Chicken

Ok, I'll play. Currently, Motrex 10-60 syn in the powerplant, and Redline shockproof light in the transmission and rear drive. I ran the Centauro (similar architecture) 42K miles on Mobil 1 V twin and Mobil 1 75W/90 in the transmission and rear drive without issue. Using synthetics, I change once a year or every 6K miles. Filter once a year. If a guy is willing to change more often, I'm sure that any quality SG rated dino oil from around 20-50 would be fine. Why Shockproof light? Many if not most run heavy. Heavy is so tenacious that if you follow a regimen of drain and measure, quite a bit of Heavy will stick to the gears and you will overfill (especially) the rear drive. BTDT. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it..

Oh, boy.. an oil thread. Where's that popcorn emoticon?

Actually, the GrisoGirl wasn't half bad.. for an ..ahem.. older girl. She went out on the "fast guys" ride and looked pretty good. 2017-10-15_01-41-22 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr Scud has a better picture with her bike.

Crap. At any rate, here's the bearing number.. http://www.mcmaster.com/#5909K13 and the washers http://www.mcmaster.com/#5909K73 I've been meaning to do it when I get a a round touit, but haven't done it yet..

I *think* I remember reading somewhere that the trim setting affected fuel and ignition across the board.. but I could be dreaming.

You have uncovered my evil scheme..

I'm betting that is your noise. What do I win?

He's as bad as me about carrying a phone. He may or may not answer a text today. Some work with calipers should get you the answer. https://www.mcmaster.com/#thrust-washers/=19x8u71 You need the thrust/needle bearings, of course. Ace told me he experimented with running with a valve cover off at high rpm (kind of messy) and the pressure of the pushrods moved the rocker arm back and forth in a blur. He assumes that eats horsepower, and came up with this bearing idea.

Brad (The Kid) used the bearings in his 1100 Spot. I'll shoot him a text and see if he still has the part numbers. They were inexpensive..

I remember reading something about it back in the day. Thanks! 2017-10-16_02-39-32 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

To make a long story short.. when you said I found when the Mighty Scura was set -40 from where it should be, not only was it doing a lot of lean stumbling at small throttle openings, I was getting 50+ mpg. (!) Normally, it gets high 30s.

^^^^^ What Docc sez.

Scud.. the book say the arrow A on top of the piston points to the exhaust. Are the springs on the rocker arms in good shape? Ace Mallot sez the rocker arms can clack back and forth. McMaster Carr sells a radial bearing that can replace the spring and keep that from happening. Looks like the clutch throwout bearing, but I don't have a part number. Naturally, you are going to have to look at the rings, so it doesn't matter which way you pull the cylinders. I personally leave the piston in the bore.

I beg to differ..

Yo.. Scud.. save one for me.

Rope, hanging the laundry variety, 1/4 inch or so diameter..

Carb springs work really well.

I'd keep that greenie, too..

I'm a fan of HH pads, too. I modified the (now) Mighty MZs calipers to use them.

She's a looker all right. The kind of girl that could make you lose your happy home.

Those brackets would be cheap to make. No form die to make, no fussy dimensions.

"They appear to lightly be touching the piston, which obviously isn't good, but since they don't seem to be hitting that hard, I'm hopeful that they will be in good condition (I can still turn it over by hand, so they valves aren't stopping the pistons). " when I was building the Aero engine, Ilooked up a lot of this kind of stuff. Of course.. I've promptly forgotten, but .030" clearance rings a bell. At any rate, look it up to be sure.