rwake

Very good condition. 17,000 miles. Mistral mufflers and crossover. Power Commander. Stock airbox. Stucchi rack. Very well maintained in the 7 years that I've owned it. New Michelin Pilot Road 4 tires 1,500miles ago. Recent fluid changes to final drive, transmission, brakes and clutch. Includes front and rear stands, chock, uninstalled Roper plate, Carbtune (to balance throttle bodies), and Odyssey battery charger. Also stock exhaust parts. Illness forces sale. $4,500/offers. Located in Adrian, MI I wasn't able to post most photos here because of file size, even when reduced. I will email more to interested parties. PM me. rwake

8 years later: One of mine was stuck in the up position, the other stiff. I was able to remove the circlip at the bottom of the pin with a small hook tool without removing the muffler. There are 2 through holes in the peg; one for the pivot pin and the other for the spring and ball. The ball is at the bottom (be ready to catch it), as is the thicker of the 2 steel wear plates (with the second hole for the ball to engage) which slide out with the peg. I cleaned the parts of the stuck one with mineral spirits and reassembled after lubing lightly with wheel bearing grease. It works great. I hadn't forced it so nothing was damaged. The ball hole in the stiff one was deformed such that the ball could not fully retract, causing a groove in the lower wear plate. I tapped out the ball with a punch and trued up the hole with a quarter inch drill bit, which was very slightly undersized, but sufficient for the spring and ball to move freely. I filed down the displaced metal by the groove in the plate and put it back together. Because of the groove, the ball doesn't engage as "crisply" in the up position, but I doubt that anyone else would notice. Ditto on fighting the impulse to force a stuck peg down. Both appeared to have been assembled dry originally. Edit: I noticed that the "up" side of the lower wear plate, where the spring loaded ball rides, must have been the "down" side when the 2 holes were punched, as, there was a slight exit burr around the holes. I used a ball-nose bit in my drill press to remove the burr and leave a slight chamfer. Perhaps that sharp edge caused the groove in the ball mentioned above by slug. Both balls in my rear pegs looked alright, but they have not been used at all in the 6 years I've owned it. But I'm ready now if I ever find a passenger.

4 years ago, I noticed that the Mistral decal on my left muffler was much more faded than the right. Thinking it might be heat related, I started feeling the "tailpipes" after riding. The right side I could touch for 2 or 3 seconds before becoming painful, but the left side was really hot. I couldn't hold my fingers on it at all. So, I bought a Carbtune Pro and balanced the throttle bodies. No change. Next I bought a Power Commander and installed a map from their website for stock airbox, stock crossover and Mistral Cans, which was my setup. No change. Then I bought an infrared thermometer to see just how much hotter the left cylinder was than the right. Surprisingly, they were about the same. The big temp difference was only at the aft portion of the exhaust system. I had read on these forums accounts of owners who cut apart the stock crossover, and found inside a baffle plate and some sort of wire wool, as it also functions as a pre-muffler. Thinking that something was amiss in the guts of mine, I replaced it with a Mistral crossover, and changed the PC map accordingly. Now the temp of the tailpipes are the same, and much cooler. Even after a long ride, I can now hold my fingers on both sides indefinitely without getting burned. It seems likely to me that something inside the stock crossover shifted to cause uneven flow through it. All along, the bike ran well. Its louder now, with the Mistral crossover, and maybe a bit torquier at the lower revs. Also it used to spark knock a little under sudden load at middle rpms, which has subsided. So if others here notice that one side is much hotter than the other, it might be because of the stock crossover. Edit: I forgot to mention above that I keep an eye on valve clearances, which I suspected initially. I run .006 & .008, same as my old BMW. I made the above changes over a period of 2 or 3 years, as money permitted. They were mostly things that I wanted to do eventually anyway, and am glad that I no longer have to worry that the left cylinder seemed to run much hotter than the right.

Anyone looking for a tail bag for the Stucchi rack might want to consider the 3516-0135 from Moose Racing. Its semi-rigid, fits the rack well, can be removed quickly with finger clips, and can be extended upward by opening a zipper. Anyone with the Stucchi rack knows that cargo cannot be strapped all the way forward without chaffing the carapace behind the seat. To prevent this, I laced black paracord among the rack rails to standoff the tailbag. Even so located, it does not overhang the rack. Its rather small, but suits my purpose, so I'm happy with it. My intent was to post a few photos of how it looks on the bike, but the 200KB max attachment allowance for this posting precludes even one picture. If anyone is curious about fit and appearance, send me a message I will email pics. rwake 5-12-16: Photos are now linked below in the 3rd post, with Docc's help.