Lucky Phil

The RS Sport was a much better looking bike. Different wheels, much better looking seat unit, painted engine, usd forks, more power than the original Daytona and Carrillo rods.

The only thing I can add is if I were going to use a Daytona seat assy I wouldn't be using this god awful bread box version but the Daytona RS version. Gundagai where this one is made isn't a million miles away from Pete Ropers place and about a 5 hour drive from mine. This one has been on the HMB site as a special for years. Take off 19% and add shipping. Michael may cut you a deal who knows. https://hmb-moto.de/Rear-Cover-Sport-Corsa-yellow-black

Every single person I've known over the years that gets into home brewing doesn't stick at it for more than a year or two. Too fiddly and finicky esp when you are woken up in the middle of the night with bottled beer blowing the caps off on occasions. Phil

You know you can buy beer at the shops I actually drink zero alcohol beer these days in summer. You can drink as much as you like, it's available at the Supermarket and cheaper than soft drink. Coopers make a nice one but it's a bit high in sugar so these days I drink Great Northern. Phil

Cant understand why you still have one fitted. Phil

On the subject of hose clamps these are the best. Re useable and the special tool isn't required. Neat, compact, simple and reliable. I hate screw clamps on small hoses. They look like shite. 5/16 EFI hose needs the "purple banded" Norma Cobra clamps. You can buy them at many places or on line. https://www.irrigationworks.com.au/hose-clamps

You could re arrange everything like my bike I guess. EFI Fuel hose often leaks after long term storage at the clamps and after a bit of running they swell and seal again. Phil

Std bush. Buy them anywhere for far less. https://www.sp-spareparts.com/en/p/egb-1615-e40-b-ina?srsltid=AfmBOopEQweX5noDan8IK06-n8jMwp2x23nsWgj79duzIrKvL2X86Efe Phil

If 12 keeps coming off 10 the lever arm it's not related to the missing shift lever bush. More likely an issue with the lever or the arm itself. Spline condition or clamping action etc. The spring shown in the image isn't std I don't believe and the only measurement for the bush worth having is from an unused bush. You might just have to measure the ID of the frame support for the shift lever and the OD of the shift lever shaft itself and make or source your own bush if you can't buy an oem one. Old bike engineering.

3 small wires that sit in the thread pitch dia, so in the thread valleys so to speak. Two on one side and one on the other and then use a std mike to measure the bolt dia. Useful when single point cutting on a lathe. This is better than my explanation.

Personally I prefer the much more compact, affordable and convenient set of thread gauges I have sitting on the Lathe. These and a set of 6" Vernia callipers tell me what I need to know about bolt size and thread pitch and profile. If it's really tricky I'll use my thread mike or the 3 wire and std Mike method. Phil https://www.ausee.com.au/products/thread-gauges-set?variant=45253772935332&country=AU&currency=AUD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2oW-BhC2ARIsADSIAWqLnzdb2iEZdt8iF1pAa0ExarJb-NDhZ0TOE5jKY98gNN_JAZ0VmfwaAoSpEALw_wcB https://www.tester.co.uk/mitutoyo-series-125-screw-thread-micrometer-0-4-0-5-mm-5-5-7-mm-choice-of-model

You don't want to use the generic torque for a 21mm or 22mm thread depending on the model that's for sure. Phil

They are a decorative lock nut for the pins. You need to use your judgement based on that. Hold the pin with the allen key and tighten the lock nuts tight enough to stop the pin backing off. Is a very fine thread so a little more than "nipped up" Phil

Ok I'll join in. When I was but 16 years old and a first year apprentice my best mate bought a 122S that had been a rally car and been stuffed into a tree front on. His dad was the service manager at a local Volvo dealer and a classic car guy with "contacts". We pulled the front off the 122 and repaired and panel beet the hood (where I learned how to "heat shrink" panels by an award winning restorer of the day) and got it straight and true then re sprayed the whole car. He and I put quite a few miles on that car with it's 1800 pushrod engine over the next few years. We painted it a pale yellow colour almost a light mustard. My friends older brother also had the four door version the 124 as well and it was a light grey colour. Back then it wasn't exactly a "cool" car to be seen in as a young bloke but it was faster and handled better than many thought it would. Phil

Screwed on reverse thread. Phil