Lucky Phil

Here you go John https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/kalamunda/motorcycle-scooter-accessories/will-creedon-eprom-chip-daytona-rs/1243440643

Yes docc but the total weight is 3 kg heavier than a V11 Sport. Griso's look very long and stretched out to me. I find the look appealing and not depending on variables I not sure about. I wonder how they would look with a tasteful, not too large colour co ordinated belly pan to increase the perception of being deeper in the centre which would lessen the look of length. Like a visual trick. Petes bike looks really nice in that shot. Ciao

Me to I think Chuck. Ciao

This one looks nice. Not sure about the mufflers but apart from that looks quite cool. Ciao

I saw an unused Will Creedon chip for a daytona on Gumtree a few days ago. $160au original price $260us. Made Feb this year. Ciao

Vertical up or vertical down docc? Ciao

You can buy banjo bolts with a bleed nipple on them. I just as the last processes unbolt the master and tilt it so the reservoir is higher than the connection and then just work the lever in the "slack" gently and the air in that location comes into the master. Only takes a few movements of the lever. The other thing is to remove the calipers off the disks one at a time and pump the pistons out maybe 2 mm each (put a 3mm spacer between the pads) then lever them into the caliper again gently until they just slide back over the disk. This releases the seals from the pistons and allows them to reset at a different position. This alone even without bleeding will reduce the lever travel to the bar. Ciao

This one Pete? It's very nice but you need an external filter adaptor to run an oil cooler which is what Paul Minnaert has done. It's also got a sight glass which is nice. The other thing is on a V11 the small side stand support bolt wont work. I seem to recall Paul mentioned that the daytonas didnt have the smaller mount bolt anyway and nor does his bike.Personally I'd prefer the small bolt as well and thats what's stopped me buying one for years. Interestingly even with the extra capacity Paul says the Daytona's still needs an oil cooler even in European summer traffic. Ciao

Yes Pete, Not much different to Ducati at the time. Ciao

I believe you are in this case:) The primary reason to change out brake fluid ( for normal road use) is moisture content which causes reduced boiling point and component corrosion. 2% is the maximum recommended contamination and a few years ago I was shocked to find my 2 year old car which I had owned from new was at 4% already. I then checked every vehicle I owned (7) and the only one that was ok was the 1 year old car. The rest got changed out. Invest in one of these, I checked the calibration and they are accurate. Cheaper and easier than changing brake components in the long run. The other advantage of using the pressure bleeder is that you dont need to stroke the master cylinder piston right down to a point in the bore where there may be corrosion damage that will ruin the seal. Especially a consideration in older vehicles that havent had regular fluid changes. This is just for a look at the tester. I dont know the efficacy of doing the test in conductive containers but you get the drift. I also did the cal with water but I used a measured qty of water and brake fluid so the percentages were correct and the tool was spot on. Ciao

Yes Chuck, I tend to agree. I must say the RAM clutch on the new engine is quiet as a mouse, engaged or disengaged. Ciao

Forget about these things and buy one of these....https://www.motiveproducts.com/products/power-bleeders-power-bleeders-domestic-bleeder-kits-power-bleeders-import-bleeder-kits-power-bleeders-single-adapter-bleeder-kit-power-bleeders-classic-car-and-marine-kits I bought one to do fluid changes on the cars and its brilliant. Screw the cap onto the fluid reservoir and pump up the unit to 15 psi or so and open the bleed nipple. System empty or full air or no air doesnt matter now more lever pumping etc they just push the air out. Vacuum bleeders are also a bit useless as well, I have one of those and I'll never use it again. After you've used one of these you wont go back to the old way. Ciao

Yes. Ciao

The twin clutch plate unit on my old engine would rattle at idle just like yours and and the quick clutch "flick" would reduce it about 50% Its just allowing the intermediate plate and the friction plate splines to unalign themselves and take up some of the backlash in the splines. If your bike isn't affected by the recall then you dont have an issue in that regard. It's easy to get focused on a normal noise that you haven't noticed before,happens to me sometimes. Your bike sound like its way above 750 rpm to me, might just be the recording and of course TB balance makes a difference in clutch rattle Ciao

Yes John that looks correct for the non US Swiss and Singapore RS. The manual is hopeless and shows wrong images ( turn crank to 49 before BDC and actually shows After BDC) and text mixing up inlet and exhaust. Ciao

If you rapidly disengage and reengage the clutch does the noise change? IE quickly as you can pullthe clutch lever all the way to the bar and let it out again. Did you have the revs elevated for that sound clip? if not the idle sounds really high. Ciao

How bad is this? I'd hate to listen to a V11 gearbox with a stethoscope at idle. That would be scary. Ciao

Look up the recall and see if it's applicable to your bike.Guzzi_transmission_recall.pdf Ciao

Ok cool, looks like a professional outfit. Ciao

Ok cool thanks for that. Who did your mapping for you if I may ask? Ciao

Thanks Jaap, yes the plan is to get it running acceptably well to ride it round and put around 1000 klms on it and then do the dyno tuning. What ecu did you run? Ciao

First thing to do is change out the fuel filter and measure the fuel pressure if you can before going down the re-flashing the map path. Ciao

Well here it is out and about today. First ride.I started off trying a std V11 map. Strangely my bike has a very early 1.5M ecu and for some reason doesn't present any baro pressure info. Paul Minnaert seems to recall the early version ecus have something different about their baro sensor. He's going to get back to me when he has access to his info.Hopefully this just means for the moment the baro pressure is set to a default. The other odd thing about my ecu is it's loaded with a 2002 LeMans map. I've owned this bike for 10 years so pre Guzzidiag days so how this has gotten in there I dont know. Any thoughts anyone? Maybe this is why the baro info isnt displayed because that function of the early ecu isnt compatible with the later maps. Hopefully Paul can shed some light. I reset the CO trim to Zero from -12 and the bike seemed to idle fine on the V11 map. Starting's a bit ropey though. So out I went for a ride around the block. It didnt run that well to be honest, I mean it got me around the block a few times but you wouldn't go out for a ride like that. It did allow me to check the oil pressure though with the temp oil pressure gauge though with the oil a bit warmer and 60 psi @ 2500 rpm at around 52 deg C oil temp on 15W-40 which will be adequate. I believe that figure will turn out to be the relief valve setting. If I feel the need for more pressure I'll go to a 10W-50 but I'm OK with 60psi max. I came back and decided to load the map Gritman had sent me for his V11/Daytona and see what that was like. Out I went and it was way better, not really great but you could go for a ride at a pinch with this map although truthfully it will need to be a lot better than this. Gritmans bike has pod filters and I'm not sure what crossover so it was never going to be perfect. The gearbox shifted nicely and the bike went well in all other areas so now its just about the tuning. Hopefully I'll be able to get some help with that. Now Then. How it was when I bought it 10 years ago Ciao