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Lucky Phil

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Everything posted by Lucky Phil

  1. Ok cool Thanks Jaap. EDIT......all good now thanks again. Ciao
  2. Sound glorious docc. You guys are heading into summer and hopefully that helps virus wise. At the very least its better for the spirits. Yes strangely my 2 albums switched around there for a while as well. Ciao
  3. No joy docc. Even tried uploading an image I have previously uploaded and all I get is this message NoDecodeDelegateForThisImageFormat `/tmp/imagicke0XTUm' @ error/constitute.c/ReadImage/544 Please contact us for assistance. Ciao
  4. No the Stucchi. The Stucchi is the best, it fills in the hole in the middle of the torque curve and maintains the top end and is supported,robust and doesnt crack. Here's a link worth reading again from Brad Black....http://www.bikeboy.org/v11sport.html Plenty of other Guzzi tuning stuff of Brads to read as well. This was what I made my cross over decision on all those years ago and it proved to be right I think. Ciao
  5. Meant this one docc. Ciao
  6. I like the stripes on the silver tank, at least from that angle. What do you think docc? Ciao
  7. Thanks docc I havent done anything differently to my knowledge. I'm at 10% in attachments also. Ciao
  8. Let me know when you find one Chuck, I have a lot of questions. Ciao
  9. Well as Paul Minnaert informed me the map for an MGS-01 is identical to a V11 map. Go figure. Ciao
  10. Fair way to go yet I think tuning wise. Ciao
  11. It lives! Long day today. The last pieces showed up yesterday so I got them fitted and installed the tank ready to start the bike. I've been talking to Paul Minnaert about fuelling stuff which has been great and informative. Pauls still recovering from the Covid-19 although he didn't go into details he still has a bit to go.Many things affected and it takes some time. Apparently my 15M is an early one and there may be an issue with it's pressure sensor compared to later units which affects the maps you can run. I've also been getting great help from Gritman that was on here a few years ago and has done the same thing. He sent me his bin file which is a really nice of him and much appreciated. I need to see if my 15M and its differences will be ok with this bin. Hopefully it will be usable. Anyway to business. Paul and others reccon the std V11 map isnt a bad starting point anyway so I decided to just try and run it on the map in my ecu and confirm the mechanical stuff and then move onto the tuning. The bike fired up after a little cranking but was only running on the right cylinder which was a bit disappointing The other think I was keen to check was the oil pressure after my relief valve spring mod so I was watching it like a hawk ( I'd hooked up a remote gauge). The oil pressure was too high at 100 psi cold idle so I wasn't keen to to run it too much until I'd fixed that. The issue with the left cylinder was my bad. I had to extend the left injector harness and for the first time I used those new all in one solder and heat shrink joiners. In the middle of a fitted wiring harness you cant use a heat gun so I tried it with my soldering iron which is how I usually do heat shrink in these situations. I wasnt entirely happy with the outcome and went back to the tried and tested process for everything else however I put a meter across the joints and they had continuity so I left them. Bad mistake, feeding and flexing the left injector harness into place dislodged the wires. When I saw then the ends didn't even have any solder on them,DOH so back to the old way, problem solved. I then dropped the sump off and pulled the relief valve and fitted the original spring and shims and threw it back together and cranked it over with the plugs out to get some oil pressure which came right up anyway. Started it up and away it went. Cranking oil pressure cold was 50 psi as was cold idle. Once the oil got to 45degC the idle pressure dropped back to around 43 psi. I blipped the throttle a few times to 2750 rpm and got just under 60 psi with oil at 45 deg C. I was conscious of keeping the engine temp within reason as I didn't have any fans set up. So a bit of fiddling with the balance and idle screw and it sat there idling at 1100 rpm fairly happily. I haven't even checked the CO setting on the ecu so the next job is to hook up the Guzzi Diag and see what we have. No images as for some reason the site isn't happy with the formatting all of a sudden. Ciao
  12. Just buy it its a really nice example. Worry about the finance later, you wont be sorry. Love the Ducati BTW. Ciao
  13. Seems to me docc the idle value is just a ball park starting figure after the TPS setting so when you start the bike it's somewhere near the mark. It's not in my view a "tuning setting" just a starting reference point. Ciao
  14. You may as well just change out the switch anyway as they dont cost much and be done with it. If the light still stays on then go looking for the issue. I asked about the time the light was on just in case you fired it up and only ran it for 4 or 5 seconds and shut it down. Its a slight possibility after sitting for a long time the pump lost its prime. Running it at low rpm for 10 or 15 seconds wont cause it damage and may be whats needed if its lost prime. Ciao
  15. Yes respect, I'm just reading Churchills biography as we speak. Ciao
  16. How long was it on for? Ciao
  17. You remove the rockers John and run the dial indicator off the exhaust lifter. That way you can easily turn the cam with all the belts fitted and tensioned to align it with the crank position and then fit the vernia adjuster. Nice system. You cant adjust the inlet and exhaust timing independently. Unless someone has messed with your timing or its been assembled incorrectly at the factory or the belts have been installed a tooth out it should be fine. Ciao
  18. Yes Chuck, it's a nice system on the Daytona engine and makes valve timing easy. I dont think timings Johns issue though. I'm not sure the Australia with the fairings is a great suburban low speed proposition, I think these things need to be a naked to be an all rounder as they naturally run hot. All Guzzi's struggle with overheating at low speeds even the Grisso's. I remember riding my 2 valver home through the suburbs when I thought it was failing a drive shaft uni so I avoided any more than about 40kph and left it in 2nd or third gear for about 3 or 4 klms. It got pretty hot which surprised me at the time. Ciao
  19. My grandfather and another friend I had at work that races a Ducati both only had sight in one eye so no depth perception either and I've always wondered how they rode or drove and got braking distances right etc. Ciao
  20. Maybe I can wheel it into the driveway and take a shot. I'm a bit over waiting for stuff to arrive from OS. Ordered 5 weeks ago and still no sign...sigh. Ciao
  21. If it's got a Guzzi in it docc it's going to be moving all right.......................slow moving:) Nice juxtaposition though. Ciao
  22. If its not causing an issue then dont worry about it. It's probably an isolated hole. Ducati just used to fill them with Araldite back in the 70's and it lasted for years although there's better stuff around now like JB and Devcon F if you feel the need. Ciao
  23. Clearances are too wide for a road bike. Set them to what I mentioned above and see how it goes. Ciao
  24. I know what the upper red arrow is pointing to John but whats the lower red arrow indicating? none of my 6 heads have any form of hole here.Is it porosity? Ciao
  25. What are Raceco specs? ( 0.004" and 0.006"?)and whats the CO set at? Ciao
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