Lucky Phil

This sounds like a brain fart question:) My bike wont engage the starter unless the clutch is pulled in to start with. Does that answer the question? Ciao

Air in the system makes it spongy not solid. Ciao

Sounds feasible, btw 0.9mm wear to a friction plate is quite a lot. How many miles had that plate done? Ciao

You can get them here https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/fp-hosekit.htm Along with other useful BMW and Guzzi stuff. Ciao

Yes its an easy mod to do, a drill a steel rule a hacksaw a file,some 4mm (from memory) piece of scrap mild steel and a welder. My test iteration wasn't even welded but bolted together as proof of concept then Chuck got all show offy and made lovely crafts person type ones and retired to the Bahamas Ciao

Yep wasn't really commentating on the origin of this thing other than to say that this sort of issue is now just a factor in globalisation. Can't put the genie back in the bottle now, modern world stuff. Ultimately this will be a life changing situation for everyone after the initial actions have passed and into the future. Much like 911 in a way in that day to day life will now have added requirements and obligations. I foresee temperature monitoring machines much like metal detectors popping up everywhere at major populated locations like stadiums and airports etc. temp too high and no entry allowed. Ciao

Just looking at these mana's Pete because I know nothing about them. The pillion seat look very high to me, is this the case? Totally different bike to a 1400 Cali. How many dunny rolls did you get for your Stelvio:) Ciao

Maybe I wasnt clear. My quest was to have the old style tank with the external pump and somehow convert it to run an internal pump and filter without getting into sawing holes into the tank,ie leaving the old style tank standard and somehow arranging the fitment of pump,filter and hoses through the original tank cap hole. If you managed to get that done and the outlet and return sorted you could just fill the tank with anti sloshing foam to stop the pump and filter assembly from flopping about as I couldnt see any way of anchoring them inside the tank. The only issue with your old school look idea is the major sacrifice you would make to fuel quantity Ciao

I spent a lot of time and mental energy trying to find a solution for fitting an internal pump to an older external pump tank and shelved the idea. Like most things its probably possible but just too hard to physically do. My criteria was to be able to fit a pump and filter inside the old style tank without modifying the tank itself. Ciao

Did you machine the end of the pushrod diameter or the length. I just re read your original post and the issue is that the clutch lever is solid,ie it has no ability to be pulled back towards the handlebar.Is this correct? What is the actual measurement I mentioned previously? What is the clutch you have fitted? Is it a new clutch assembly recently fitted? If its an old clutch why would you machine the pushrod to correct a slipping issue? Ciao

I'll guess and say its sheared the top off one of the stops? in which case you can get it built up with weld and reshaped again. See my latest V11 daytona post with regards to the stops. Ciao

You would need to get an aluminium mount plate made up to mould into the new tank. Easiest way would be to take a mould from the later tank. I've made fibreglass fuel tank moulds and tanks from scratch as well. The wiring for the internal pump is no big issue just a wiring splice and plug for the level sensor and pump. Ciao

Wrong length push rod. If you remove the slave cylinder and measure from the face of the actuating piston to the outer face of the gearbox housing face where the slave cylinder bolts to you should have a measurement of 18.5 - 19mm with a new single plate clutch. If you have fitted a new RAM clutch then its probable you have used a 5 speed unit which I think needs the 5 speed pushrod with the end dia machined down. Ciao

No stop worrying. Ciao

True....ish:) Ciao

Everyone seems to be forgetting that when the engine is fitted you get a massively rigid structure esp with regards to twisting. The truth is this thread is all a bit crazy to be honest. From someone that has bought around half a dozen wrecks and repaired them the only way to be sure how straight they are without alignment tools is to check the vulnerable areas like engine/gearbox mount points for cracking and steering head area for distortion and eye up the forks in relation to each other and put your hand up at the auction. Get it home and evaluate properly stripped down and hope you got it right. Its always worked out fine for me. Most bikes dont get bent unless they hit something fairly solid or cartwheel and then you generally get frame member distortion and or engine mount damage and bent forks. Ciao

Yes docc, the main issue with the V11 is the frame design. A single spine doesnt leave a lot of options for routing wiring and cramming in things like fuel pumps and filters etc thats why I think the later in tank pump arrangement is a bonus. Gets a couple of large bulky items out of the way and simplifies the plumbing and makes tank removal less messy. The V11 though comes from the same era of design as the 851 Ducati which was literally a frame, engine, swingarm forks and wheels set on a lift and they then built everything around that.Old school ad hock design which makes them messy. The 916 Ducati was a massive leap in this regard as it was CAD designed and fitted together like a watch by comparison. Ciao

Never thought of that, didnt realise they were dead straight. You learn all sorts of things here:) You can of course source yourself a piece of 50X20 aluminium rectangular tube and adjust it for dead straight then drill 4 holes with bolts 2 at each end that are spaced to rest on the fwd and rear edges of the rims to check the alignment. Then you can use it on any bike by just drilling extra bolt holes to suit differing wheel bases and use longer/shorter bolts for different wheel width combinations.The vertical you do with plumb bobs. The trick is knowing how much misalignment is production based. Ciao

True but as with all things its the details that make or break. So some of the issues in that regard are pump dimensions, pump mounting requirements, outlet and inlet sizes compared to the tank, pump inlet and outlet orientation, etc,etc. it always looks easy on paper but can turn into a head @#!#$# when it comes time to actually do the install. Then if you do have a running issue initially you are always wondering whether you failed to consider something with the new hybrid system and you start digging yourself a hole. My bike is an example, seems simple sourcing a new/replacement fuel filter to fit but believe me it took a lot of research mainly because of the space requirements and i still took and educated guess on the filtering requirements. Ciao

Some of the later injection systems are a variable pressure arrangement that vary the speed of the pump via the ecu as a primary control of pressure and therefore dont require a return circuit and regulator but you could in principle use any pressure source and reg you like,BUT take it from me after years of experience with these sort of things its wise where possible to not mix and match components from different manufacturers and systems to this extent. If you use the later V11 system you take out a whole lot of possible variables on a whole lot of levels and when and if you run into an issue at least you know you are dealing with a system that is proven to work on your specific installation. A large access hole is an advantage not a disadvantage foe maintenance and possible repairs. If you want the cheapest possible solution then go with an external pump,reg and filter for sure. Just 2 simple and cheap spigots to incorporate into the tank. Ciao

True docc but that relies on the vented fuel having an escape route and in the case of a V11 that route is the tank cap recess drain. Ciao

I would forget the keyed cap and use a nice race cap. I have one on my bike. You can even buy race style caps these days with a dedicated small tool key that you keep on your key ring if you worry about people stealing fuel or such things. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fuel-Filler-Cover-Gas-Tank-Cap-w-Key-For-Suzuki-GSXR-1000-600-GSXR750-Hayabusa/264583557906?hash=item3d9a68b312:g:2rgAAOSw3fFeCcxK Ciao

The best solution if you are going to make a tank from scratch is to use the pump/filter/regulator and mount plate assy from one of the later v11's with the in tank pump. This keeps the regulated pressure standard and tidies up the fuel hoses around the engine. using a pump and reg assy from a Japanese bike seriously complicates matters. As for venting and cap, well there are a gazillion different aftermarket cap solutions out there quite cheap, take your pick. Same for the venting. The simplest solution is a small fitting on the front of the tank with an in line check valve to a small remote catch tank ( I used to use old small plastic pill bottles) or dump to the ground such as we used to run on race bikes a few years ago. Once again a million affordable options out there. Ciao

Don't stress NZ doesn't have the same issues as Italy in that it has the worlds 2nd oldest average population compounded by the fact that they also have a very high level of contact with the younger members of their family's which tend to be less/minimally affected but transfer the virus to their elders. The panic buying here is just nuts. I totally refuse to get involved with that moronic behaviour. Ciao

So onto the steering stops. My preferred option was to machine off the original lower triple clamp stops and make new adjustable bolt on ones but I simply dont have access to the equipment required these days so I thought long and hard and decided on plan B for the time being at least. I tapped and drilled a hole in each stop and machines up some Ti spacers combined with button head caps. Drilling and tapping accurately the stops in situ was interesting to say the least but I surprised myself and got it right for a change. I made up a rather crude tiny 5mm thick alloy plate with an accurate hole through it to be my guide and clamped it to the face of each stop and used my die grinder with a drill chucked up to drill the holes as there was limited room for a hand drill. Used the same process to get the tap aligned for the tapping process as well. Next job is the top triple clamp off to freshen up the paint where the previous owner used to ride with a key fob flapping about damaging the paint work. Why the hell people ride with key fobs flapping around is beyond me. I've never used such a thing in 50 years of riding. Ciao