Jump to content

Lucky Phil

Members
  • Posts

    5,002
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    257

Everything posted by Lucky Phil

  1. What brand was the Amazon one Chuck, for future reference? Ciao
  2. Big call:) Ciao
  3. Yes an aircraft welder would be a good start. Mounts on the cover are a good thing, I've had a few Ducati engine mounts repaired and they are part of the main case. I'd rather just replace a removable cover than weld the cases. The Ford Ecoboost 4 cylinder engine has one engine mount incorporated in the timing chain cover and is no problem as does quite a few 4 cylinder FWD engines. Ciao
  4. There always seems to be lots of new ones on ebay. Cant comment on their quality but they are readily available. Seems an intermittent solenoid would be fixable.I would imagine a toasted solenoid would just not work period. Kiwi Roy will have some ideas I'm sure. Ciao
  5. Yes I saw that on ebay when I was having a look for the OP. Some people will try to make a dollar from anything. I've seen clowns selling Ducati matched crankcase pairs as separate listings. Ciao
  6. Well the wall thickness on the outside of the mount looks a bit thin for an insert but they are quite deep so thats good. Generally the item needs to be designed for the insert. I'd just flatten the mounting faces off on a plate if possible then screw it down without too much force with some blue loctite. When you bolt it down look to see if it tends to distort and load up the mounts too much. When this happens I usually use some small thin homemade rubber washers under the mounts and then torque up lightly with the loctite. Ciao
  7. The main advantage of the fine wire platinum plugs is longevity. Modern engines with these plugs often have change out intervals of 80,000 klms. Old style plugs wont go this sort of mileage without maintenance. Of course there's also all the other supposed advantages but for an old Guzzi engine I am happy to stick with the old style plugs. One thing I dont like about the fine wire plugs is once they are fouled they are generally done. Almost never clear and dont respond well to cleaning either. If you do manage to recover a fouled plug they seem far more susceptible to it happening again and in a modern engine where plug access is often quite painful I just bin them and fit a new one. Old style plugs dont seem to be an issue though, clean em up and there're good to go again. Ciao
  8. Thats an annoying break to repair as its also broken through or adjacent to one of the 6 mm mount holes. Its really 2 repairs, one for the cracking near the small mount hole and another for the major mount. From the images I think I'd be inclined to remove the mount repair the smaller crack then refit the main mount back in the correct position and weld repair it. As usual the devil's in the detail and all the cracks and weld areas need to be V'ed out to get good weld penetration and expertly welded and the mounting faces machined true again. You generally heat the case to around 150 deg C before welding to minimise the distortion. It's quite a process and would probably be cheaper to buy a second hand case if you can find one. I'd exhaust all the Guzzi parts suppliers such as Reboot spares, HMB, etc that deal in second hand stuff or wait for an ebay item. I have a friend here that could repair it but he's currently out of action health wise. I'd imagine he would charge around $200US plus there would be postage on top. Just to give you an idea of the costs that someone that's expert in these things would charge. BTW if you need another front frame support I may be able to help you out for cheap. Ciao
  9. Replaces. Ciao
  10. An image of the damage would be helpful. Most things can be successfully repaired by the right people. Ciao
  11. Others can chime in here but the cover your'e looking at(G5 1000) is from a Tonti framed bike and doesn't even have the front mounts your cover has broken if I understand you correctly. It also wont have the same alternator so the front of the crank nose will be different and the alternator wont fit the case. My suggestion would be without having an image of the damage would be to cut the original mount off and position it correctly and have an aircraft welder weld it back on or preferably someone well versed in welding cast crankcases until you can source a second hand unit. Ciao
  12. I must say the mounts look quite thick and robust depth wise anyway. Others I have seen have mounts about 2mm thick. Ciao
  13. You guys have great taste in music. I've learned a lot here. Ciao
  14. At that price I'd be interested to know if the mount points have aluminium inserts. Cheap CF guards and such generally dont and this prevents you getting the full torque on the fastener so it doesn't loosen off all the time and if you do tighten them properly then the mounts end up cracking due to stress. If it doesn't have the inserts then I suggest you install the fasteners with blue loctite and tighten them down to a minimal torque and also use a thin rubber washer under the mounts of a mm or so thickness. Stops the non insert type mounts from fatiguing and the loctite prevents the screws backing off due to low torque installation. Ciao
  15. Try Stein Dinse they have 3 options. The -Z part numbers are aftermarket equivalents.Outer 159.9 cm inner 144.5 cm. (62' and 61/64ths by 56' and 57/64ths ) https://www.stein-dinse.biz/advanced_search_result.php?inc_subcat=1&keywords=03093000&x=9&y=5&categories_id= Ciao
  16. You might be able to pull the new one through attached to the end of the old one docc and avoid the tank off. Ciao
  17. Later bikes have an eccentric adjuster instead of the roll pin. Cant really see it makes any difference to shift action unless you have the adjustment wrong. Early recall transmissions needed upgraded selector sleeves and belville washers on the output shaft damper. Acquiring the parts may be an issue these days if it hasn't been done and the entire trans need to be disassembled. Ciao
  18. Yes the later one is longer by 20mm as mentioned. Fwd of the fwd mount. I would have thought that the bike with the extra gearbox support struts would be the longer frame with the in tank pump. Does this bike have the later front engine support frame with the aft mounted tube pair running straight down to the front engine mount? Like your other V11 does.The earlier front frame supports had these struts running more horizontal and intersecting the fwd tubes running to the front engine mounts around the mid point. Ciao
  19. The link shows an external pump and my bikes external pump plastic outlets are white so I assumed its external however the 02 parts manual shows internal pump. Internal aftermarket pump kits are as cheap as chips so that also made me think external. The issue with the in tank pump is the tank is longer from the fwd mounts to the tune of around 20mm due to the longer frame. I just tried one of my spare internal pump tanks on my bike and it limits the steering lock too much to use but mines reduced as it is with the tank lifted 40 mm at the front anyway. I dont know about the pump mounting plate. I have one that I could take an image of an give you the dimensions if that helps. Ciao
  20. Lucky it didnt break when you were riding. Imagine fuel pumping out at 3 bar all over a hot engine. Ciao
  21. It looks nice but when you look at the grief the original one cops from road debris I wonder about the logic of replacing it with something more fragile. Its pretty now for sure but it wont last. Carbon Fibre.......21st century chrome:) I just repainted my oil cooler guard the std black because the powder coat was flaking off in big chunks on the mounts. Black is best as it blends in better. Ciao
  22. Yes, if you've been on a racetrack you will know that brakes are more important than horsepower. Far and away the best thing about riding a modern bike is the fact you use zero mental capacity compensating for the poor performance of machine dynamics compared to even 1980's bikes. Forget worrying about fading brakes,gearbox shifting woes, ground clearance,poor suspension, brakes that dont work in the wet, etc etc. Get on it and focus 100% on the riding. The bike is way better than you are. Ciao
  23. Interesting.In 35 years of mounting carbon guards to Ohlins forks I've never seen this and have never even heard of it. My bikes all have carbon parts mounted to ally everywhere, to swingarms petrol tanks exhaust systems. never had an issue. Same working on commercial jets, aluminium fitting brackets washers etc mounting carbon flight control panes etc, never had an issue. I've even had race bikes with carbon tanks with embedded aluminium fuel fittings etc without issue. Ciao
  24. Pretty much. All the V11's used the same style guard but with double mount points on the front and 1 behind the forks so 3 per leg except on the Ohlins bikes. Ohlins equipped models had the same general design but with different mounts like your bike 1 mount point front and rear. My 1198 ohlins equipped bike has 2 mounts/side front only as does my 1000ss. The Guzzi style guard is unique and a PITA for removal and install as you need to pull the front wheel and calipers. Ducati you can remove and install easily, 4 bolts and a brake line grommet and its off. Race bred engineering. Ciao
  25. This has to be the shittiest looking race track surface I've ever seen. Ciao
×
×
  • Create New...