Lucky Phil

So the engine and gearbox are together after some confusion regarding a couple of the mounting studs. Seemed i'd lost 2 of the shorter studs but then realised the engine is originally mated up to a 5 speed box and the shorter studs were different. I robbed them off the 2 valve engine. The clutch push rod length seemed fine compared to the original and I used some dry molycote lube painted onto the clutch and gearbox splines sparingly. I use this on Ducati dry clutches as well to ease the wear factor. My neutral switch lasted zero time as it fell apart when my finger pushed sideways against it fitting the gearbox. Robbed that off the original gearbox as well. Ciao

You miss the point entirely, its not about how much I or anyone else knows its about giving basic information so others can assist with help in the most efficient way. The OP is obviously capable enough to have done the work he has on the bike so its not unreasonable to expect he can provide all the information at the beginning. What I'm asking for is reasonable and sensible and the most efficient way to troubleshoot technical issues, its nothing to do with attacking anyone. It is however a direct comment on getting help without wasting time and energy of people willing to assist. Ciao

Without being impolite when asking for help with a running issue this stuff needs to be included at the beginning. This seems to be a common event, people asking for troubleshooting help and not including very important information from the start, its very annoying. Like going to the doctor complaining of a headache and not telling him it started after you banged your head. Its troubleshooting 101......provide ALL associated information at the beginning, not drip fed over pages of a thread. Ciao

Have you checked the compression and valve clearances? Ciao

Ok, no idea what the markings are then. The 2002 gearbox I'm using behind the Daytona engine has nout markings. Ciao

Progress,got my bench back. Stopped procrastinating and used the ramp method to transfer the engine to the lifter. Need to remove the TB's and fit the gearbox and offer the lot up to the frame. Ciao

Yes as you get older and the wear and tear and injuries add up you need to start thinking your way through these things instead of using brute force which you no longer have. I have a plan which involves using the bike lifter bench at full height and the ramp from the bench to the lifter. Get it on the lifter and lower it down. The lifter actuator has now decided to blow its seal of course so that will probably need fixing first. Ciao

Ceilings all lined I'm afraid, not my doing. Otherwise it would be a winch from the rafters. Thought of a car engine trolly hoist but need to see how high the arm will lift off the floor. Once I get it on the ground I'm fine. Ciao

Here you go docc. Trying to figure a way to get the engine off the bench. My bench is 1200mm high and this engine is 70kg and awkward plus after 25 years of lifting heavy jet wheels and brakes and 90 kva generators and CSD's off jet engines my back is a little delicate. Oh and 2 broken vertebrae from PI turn 12. I need to use brains not brawn to achieve outcomes these days so its a slow process figuring it out. Old engines new home for the time being. Ciao

As I mentioned previously the rated torque is for the purpose of stretching the fastener to prevent it losing its tension. You dont design a piece of engineering with an 8mm bolt and then require it to be torqued to half spec. What you do is design the item to use 2 smaller fasteners so you can achieve the similar clamping force at a lower torque. The rated torque is about the fastener and the required clamping force is about the design. Ciao

1200 oclock docc. Number doesnt match the engine. I'll get an image later. Ciao

Which is the 17 to 22ft/lbs (24.5 to 30nm) std torque for an 8mm bolt. Ciao

Well it had the recall done on it here in Australia when owned previously to me but the s/n markings are factory applied. Ciao

Took me a while to work out how to pull the engine single handed but got there eventually. Dropped the engine down and then slid it off the stand down my loading ramp which I normally use on the end as the Ducati's drag their under engine pipe as you roll them on and off. No idea what to do next. Might build another timber cradle as this one is a nice way to store the engine and move it around without damaging it. I need to fit the new engine and trans to the frame and determine the design for the front tank mount and make something up as it needs to be raised around 30mm. There is also some interference issues at the rear between the fuel regulator and the TPS I believe which swapping the reg and the fuel tap may just alleviate, time will tell. After that I'll decide on whether I strip the frame down entirely and repaint it. Oddly my gearbox has a serial number engraved on the bell housing.Its a factory done thing with the eagles at both ends. The new trans doesnt have one. Is this typical? Ciao

I dont believe the cracking is due to any torque related issues or even transmission/engine support. The engine and trans assembly are supported at 3 main locations (front timing cover, upper and lower gearbox mounts) which from my experience is plenty for an old 2 valve engine of this torque and weight etc. I also dont think its from rear mount bolt crush either as the webs between the upper lugs on the rear mount seem adequate. There has been a suggestion that the later cases are cast from superior material but unless someone can show me some specific data I doubt this. The cracking simply wasn't any sort of issue when the bikes were being produced and Guzzi aren't the sort of company that reacts with any kind of haste even if it was. By the time Guzzi would have reacted the gearbox would have been 10 years out of production. I still know people that have been dealing with Guzzi's for 30 years and have never heard of gearbox case cracking on 6 speeds. I believe the cracking is initiated during cooling after the casting process. The areas where the cracking occurs is at very tightly cast corners where the casting transitions from a thin to a very thick section. I think that some castings suffer from this and some dont and the cracking propagates over a period of time for the ones that do. This I believe is why some bikes suffer and some dont. Of course there is also accident damage as a possibility. I have fitted the extra gearbox mount plate but frankly with the bike stripped down and looking at it I dont see the necessity for it. I'll continue to run it for the belt and braces feel but I dont see it as necessary. I'll also dye check the original gearbox case when I get a chance. Ciao

Ohlins forks had the same issue Chuck back in 09 and were subject to a recall for new fork legs. It wasnt the bolt torque that was an issue but a fork lower manufacturing fault. Over depth bored fastener head clearance holes from memory. Ciao

When in doubt use the std torque for the bolt dia and grade. The torque is there to provide the appropriate stretch to the bolt to prevent loosening, the bolt specified in the design is whats required to carry the load. So most triple clamp bolts from my experience are 8mm dia so the std torque will be 24.5 to 30nm. Ciao

Because its a totally pointless motorcycle on anything other than a race track and even then would be totally outgunned by any other one litre sports bike. Don't get me wrong I love the look of the thing and it would be fun on the track (until it wore you out wrestling around the weight and semi trailer wheel base) but by the time you add all the stuff it would need to become a registerable road bike it would look and perform completely differently. Guzzi dint make money selling the MGS01 I can guarantee you that. Ciao