Lucky Phil
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Posts posted by Lucky Phil
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Sorry I missed the point here, you said after 200 km what happened, If it's sort of working under 200km, your OK.
Time for another IPA.
Cheers tom
After 200kph you switch over to Mach Number for speed:) Whats the mach speed indicator showing?
Ciao
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A brief search and I see these various names for the paint marks to reveal a loosened fastener, and to indicate that "someone" declared it correctly torqued;
witness mark, torque seal, torque stripe
(Haha - the wife has taken to calling them "Witness Protection Lines" . . .
Here's what you need docc for that professional aviation look, pick any colour you like. Cheap for you guys but prohibitive shipping wise for us Aussies. I used to use a plain white one at work on jets which we refered to simply as "Bird Shit"
Chucks probably got a draw full of the stuff:)
Ciao
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Hello Lukcy Phil.
I used nailpolish, because my wife always have a heck of trouble removing it. So I thought it will be durable. And it was easy to applicate with the built-in brush, and furthermore cheap, because I stole it from "She Who Must Be Obeyed."
Greetings from Dk.
Niels.
Sounds logical:) thanks.
Ciao
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Amazing stuff. This year Aussie Rennie Scaysbrook ( son of Aussie journo Jim Scaysbrook great friend and race partner of Mike Hailwood in a few Australian endurance rides as warmups to his 78 IOM return) finished 2nd to Carlin Dunne on a Ducati by some 0.06 seconds in the heavyweigh class.
This run by Chris Filmore was only around 5 second slower despite the capacity deficit.
Ciao
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The marks on the cross do not go all the way round the mating surface, only about 25% around. Pretty much what you see there. The other cap was destroyed in the bashing about.
The u joint itself is toast docc, I noticed the flattened rollers in the first post and the hard face missing off the male spigots confirms but not enough to cause whats happened here I believe.
Maybe one of those things with a combination of causes leading to the yoke failure.
Ciao
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Yes docc looks like it has the classic "beach marks" that define a progressive fatigue failure.
Ciao
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Hi all.Last week both my speedometer and tacho stopped working. Speedo at Zero and tacho steady at 7000 rpm working upwards. Pointers very fainted. Decided to repair. Removed bezel as otherwise described, painted pointers with red nailpolish. Found loose counterweight in tachohousing (clic-clac). Repositioned counterweigt and glued it. Put meters back together. Speedocable was broken, replaced. Now a happy man......Photos at this link:Greetings from Niels Knudsen, DK
Nice work but why nail polish? Is it more durable than red paint?
I spoke to a local automotive instrument repair company a couple of years ago about these instruments and re colouring the pointer. He was faimiliar with the colour which he refered to as Dogs @#$$#! red.
Dont know what dog he owns and dont want to find out either.
Ciao
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Rest assured I’ll get to ride the Vincent in the video. I’ll let you know how ordinary it is. All of the Vincent riders I’ve had the pleasure to accompany are very rapid even when riding with modern bikes.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Excellent. Look forward to a review. Just dont sign anything before hand:)
Ciao
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Funny. Perhaps this story is the other side of the coin.
I met this guy stuck on the side of the road just on the other side of town. We never got it running and we pushed it to his house. He had just taken delivery. He had changed the plugs and installed the wrong ones. He later called the restorer and got it all right.
Series C Rapides are such a nice looking bike, they seem to have the right proportions. Engine designed by and Australian as well:)
Funny story I read in a bike mag a few years ago. This Journo reccons there is a world wide Vincent owners conspiracy. Says no Vincent owner will let you ride their bike, not because they are afraid you will crash it but because if they do other riders will find out just how very ordinary they actually are,lol. Once you buy one and find out you then need to keep the secret, which apparently isnt hard to do after shelling out silly money.
PS........ I've know someone for many years thats owned one for as long as I've known him and he would never let me ride it.
Ciao
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Hey docc, just musing on the failure mechanism here which may well simply be a failed uni joint but is there any chance it could have been a loose clamp bolt causing the yoke to fail first? Maybe even backing out and catching the collar?
Just thought and hoping you would get a decent warning before the uni failed and caused that sort of carnage.
Ciao
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What happened docc?
Ciao
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Okay, that last track was just fun, but check out this Norah Jones performance . . .
(especially the third cut at about 9:00, "Light as a Feather") . . .
Love Norah Jones docc. Two performances come to mind, Her version of Bob Dylans "Forever Young" at the Steve Jobs memorial and her duet with Dave Grohl of "Maybe I'm Amazed" at the tribute to Paul McCartney.
Ciao
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You only worry when its not leaking oil............cause then you know its run out.
Ciao
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Uh oh. Turning into a Norton thread.
You don't have to go inside a Commando engine to see the parts, wait long enough and they will come out to see you.
Bought my Commando new in '72. Rode home and noticed the rear indicator bracket had snapped off. A week later the centre stand snapped. Mains failed at 3,000 miles. Advance and retard at 5,000 which went to full retard and turned the downpipes bright red, not a problem as one then snapped a while later so needed changing anyways. Zener diode failure and boiled battery. The disc pads are not really held in too well, when the pad wears down you find the backing plate is the same thickness as the gap between the disc and the caliper so it flies out in front of you. Does alert you to the brake failure, what a cunning design. Oh, oil tank lower mount cracks through dumping all oil onto rear wheel, carb float bowl screws fall out...... Actually I love the bike and still have it today after 46 years, although safely in bits in the shed.
Love it. If a Commando owner ever suggests you go touring together politely decline unless love roadside rebuilds more than riding:)
The Combat engines were the worst, hand grenades. Superblend main bearings and gearbox needle bearing conversion helps.
Ciao
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Sizzlin' Silver Sport!
The silver ones alway photograph well I think.
Ciao
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Just pulled in from about 35 miles riding, the last 15 at about 80 mph. Rear drive: 122ºF, rear brake disc: 88ºF.
Nice one docc, I love data. Maybe we should have a "data" sticky thread. You know when someone lists some data that may be useful for comparitive purposes you can go there if you have an issue and are curious. Obviously there will be a scatter of data but you can get a general idea.
Heres a few to consider.
Idle rpm
Rear drive temp
Altenator output voltage
Tyre pressures and mileage obtained.
Oil pressure
Oil consumption
Wheel Bearing life
Other bearing life.
Oil seal life
Drive shaft uni joint life.
Ciao
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Vapor lock hunt today. I installed new nicely shielded fuel line from Scud - even fits after I scooted my fuel pump forward by 1/4" to get it "that much further away" from the hot cylinders. Pump is in the orig V11 Sport location under the spine
. I also put some heat shielding over fuel line on right side for the heck of it and installed a new fuel filter and breather line (no real reason). Re-tacked on the heat shielding under the tank as best I could. Cleaned and oiled the pods. Of all things, I almost could not get the tank bolt in - I think tank might be slightly swollen. Bike started up with no leaks....am too greasy to put on my gear and test ride. Oh I spilled some gas and it turned my epoxy paint job under the bike to grey crud.
I'd say you have a fuel pump issue if you're getting vapor lock. Even in 40 deg C heat in traffic here in an Australian summer i've never had an issue with vapor lock.
Ciao
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Uh oh. Turning into a Norton thread.
Sorry, with Guzzi content. A pair of 74's
I've been inside Commando engines and transmissions a few times in the past and I find the engineering design somewhat offensive I'm afraid. A couple of dozen fasteners press ganged onto a vibrating self destructing thrashing machine all looking for a way to jump ship.
Ciao
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Cant remember but does the 02 Le Mans have the single plate alloy flywheel?
Ciao
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I wouldnt do this normally for any reason because all bikes have a speed where the natural resonant frequencey coecides with a particular speed and if you release the bars they shake. Some are far worse than others and my first experience of it was when I was part of a road test team for a local magazine back in the mid 1980s. We were testing 4 bikes ( Gpz900, Honda VF1000R, Yamaha 1000 and the Suzuki) over a weekend trip one of which was a GSX1100E, the model with the 16" front wheel. I noticed the bike would shake the bars quite badly at around 60 klm/hr if you had one hand off the bars and just light pressure on the other.
As Chuck pointed out the propensity to do it and the magnitude varies on each particular bike dependent on mechanical/wear factors and some bikes you will never actually experience it because you dont release the bars or reduce the input at a speed which that particular bike experiences the shake.
The only reason I really noticed it on the Suzuki was because from memory we were riding in suburban conditions in the rain and I was clearing my visor regularly so had one hand off the bar and with the throttle shut and no braking and light grip on the right bar it would shake. I then released the right hand entirly to see what the effect would be and it shook a lot. Didnt try it too much after that.
Replace the front tire, check the wheel bearings,steering head bearings, wheel for trueness and the steering damper for binding and no dead spot and see how it goes.
Ciao
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Can you use a pair of pliers scudd and squeeze the female connectors down a little to improve the snugness?
Ciao
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A few years ago, my Suzuki TL1000 S developed the same problem. I hadn't done anything to the brake system beforehand - it just appeared one day. Brakes were tight and normal at a stop but almost immediately the lever went to the grip when moving. I could pump the brake lever up some but it immediately goes soft again. At a stop, everything is okay. I bled the system numerous times but the problem persisted. I've been tinkering with motorcycles for over 40 years and I was really stumped. The bike was basically unrideable because of this problem. One day when testing it in my neighborhood, I watched the brake discs as I was moving slow and noticed they were warped. I replaced them and the problem went away.
Maybe this will help.
Frank
Trashed wheel bearings will do the same but I'm under the impression here that if you push the bike a few wheel rotations it will happen, so a bent disk is probable. Worn out wheel bearings need to be ridden before they do the same thing.
Ciao
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it's a stand alone question. in general. you've got a bolt in with thread loc and you want to re torque or check for tightness. if you move it at all, you break the bond, right?
Pretty much. If you just check torque it without backing it off and it doesnt tighten you're fine.
Ciao
Where are you on your V11?
in 24/7 V11
Posted
I'd be interested to ride one and I love the look of them and the engineering. Quality engineering is timeless even just to admire.
When I see the cost of some of these bikes I reflect upon the fact that for the same money or in some cases even considerably less you can buy a garanteed future classic new or almost new right now. Ducati 1098R for example, sand cast crankcases, Titanium rods, limited production Ohlins suspension plus other bespoke stuff. A future classic for a fraction of the price right now. Second hand of course.
I bet for a $100,000US you could get a Britten V1000 built for you by the Britten guys in NZ as well.
Ciao