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Lucky Phil

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Everything posted by Lucky Phil

  1. A fix as old as time. Those connectors have always been an issue. Ciao
  2. At the very least we've saved you from a Norton Commando,lol Ciao
  3. Would require a whole new rear gearbox housing with an internal bevel drive. Better in there than dangling off the back wheel. Ciao
  4. I'm thinking something like the Magni chain drive conversion for 70's MV Agustas Ciao
  5. If you want to really improve the bike and save a massive amount of weight and dont mind spending money commission an elegant chain drive conversion and rid the bike of the heavy leaky inefficient POS shaft drive system altogether. Ciao
  6. You need to make a commitment to owning a Guzzi. As long as the bike is fundamentally sound and the price is as good as others here have indicated then you cant afford to sweat the small stuff. The valve cover may have a porosity spot in it which would be the first I have heard of and would be an easy fix internally. More likely its been damaged at some point and repaired without sealing 100%. Also forget about a test ride to see if you "like" the bike because chances you wont be in love with it on a test ride. The joy of Guzzi ownership grows on you as you commit yourself to adapting to what the bike requires from the rider/owner.The test ride is just to make sure everything works. Ciao
  7. Welcome to the board. Both my brother in laws had 850T's back in the 1980's while I was riding Japanese bikes. One had an 850T and the other a T3. A friend I rode with in the early 90's had a T5. As for the highlighted point,well dismiss it from your mind. My 2000 model is stable as a locomotive on our Aussie roads and I know what a full blooded tank slapper is like on a GSXR1000 on the straight at Phillip Island at 200kph with the triple clamp hitting the stops in both directions. There are plenty of people here on this forum with many.many miles on red framed bikes that will tell you they have never experienced an issue. Why Guzzi did what the did with the later bikes is a mystery. I suspect they moved the flywheel guy to the frame department around that time. Buy the 2001 bike and have some fun. Ciao
  8. Sorry not seeing this. Ones an adventure bike and ones a pseudo flat tracker for the suburbs. Ciao
  9. I've just had my bar end weights out and it was a matter of removing the rubber plugs that covered the allen head socket in the end of the weight and loosening the screw and the weight unscrewed from the bar. The weight itself is threaded into the ID of the bar itself. Ciao
  10. good tip Ciao
  11. Might just borrow from Pete Rolf. Thanks for the offer but my use will just be a one off hopefully so no need to have tooling sitting around doing nothing. Ciao
  12. Stein dinse have them https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?products_id=9011 https://www.stein-dinse.biz/advanced_search_result.php?inc_subcat=1&keywords=29711960&x=9&y=2&categories_id= Ciao
  13. HMB Guzzi or MG Cycles Pete off the top. https://hmb-guzzi.de/Clutch-Internals_1 http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=193 Ciao
  14. No sorry I didnt look at the sizes just the Big Block ref. I dont believe it matters a whole lot as they will make whatever you want. Email them and ask for a price for a price for the V11 valve sizes. You may need to send them a std valve but all the BB's are probably the same with the exception of the major dia. Ciao
  15. If you're in desperate need Pete I have a spare new smaller lock washer (p/n 04055000) which you can have. I also have a single new larger ( 95028020) which I'll need replaced to put my box back together. Ciao
  16. Yep but about 6 or more years ago off Ferracci Ebay site. Still have them in my spares box but I'd go the Kibblewhite black diamonds as I mentioned before. The coated valves have way less friction than the SS valves and so less guide wear. Even on the bench you can feel this, by inserting a valve in a guide and applying some side load and moving the valve you can feel the reduced resistance. Ciao
  17. ^ +1 Pete, locking tabs are missing. These are the ring nuts I need to borrow your sockets to torque up Pete. Ciao
  18. This is correct.To get the overall gearing and relationship to the engine speed you need to add the gearbox gear ration of whatever gear you're looking at assuming the tyre circumference is the same. Ciao
  19. Its 11/32 docc. 2.9 to 1. Ciao
  20. I dont think I use 5th until around 80-90kph.(50mph) If your bike wont pull 5th until 85mph then there's an issue with your bike. Probably needs a tune up and throttle sync. All the V11's are the same final drive ratio. Sounds like you may have the same issue as others that have migrated from Japanese 4 cylinder bikes to twins like Ducati's esp and feel they need to be in 5th or 6th gear at moderate speeds. Around town my Guzzi and Ducatis spend most of their life in 3rd gear. The issue with shorter gearing is then you have an absurdly low 1st gear. Ciao
  21. Yes I agree, and I'm aware that values are a personal thing. I was aware of the pieces origin however I thought the member had them made by a third party. My point still remains though for a piece of printed plastic they are very pricey. Not that I would ever go down the pod path but my value system would price point them at $100. Just for comparative purposes and no doubt make a target of myself. Ciao
  22. $252AUD, for 3D printed plastic! I thought the advantage of 3D was cheap and fast. Ciao
  23. Replace the valves and K-line the guides. The Ferracci valves are 1/2mm oversize from memory. I bought a set on ebay years ago. Personally I'd go for Kibblewhite black diamond valves which are gas nitrided. Way less guide wear with them and a US company as well. http://shop.kpmivalvetrain.com/c/sport_moto-guzzi_all-2-valve-big-blocks-1971-2012_valve-black-diamond Ciao
  24. Dont bother, its a lot of work with the wire wheel,wet and dry, scotchbright etc and they just end up the same way before you know it. Ciao
  25. Not at all, I've personally never used a torque wrench on exhaust studs or nuts for that matter in 50 years. As a matter of fact I dont use a torque wrench all that often. Just for critical fasteners and groups of fasteners that need to be tensioned evenly. The reality is its not a very accurate way to tension a bolt its just that its better than free hand for the overwhelming majority of people. Get rid of the spring washer though, they are an embarrassment. Whenever I see spring washers i think "someone got the engineering wrong then".Buy a couple of Nord-Lock washers. Ciao
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