Lucky Phil

You say that like its a bad thing And yes I at least accept your apology for your lack of previous clarity and loose interpretation of figures.I can't comment for the others. Ciao

I love how this internet stuff works. People throw out there some second hand, unsubstantiated, fuzzy grey claim as fact and when they're called out on it and asked to justify/verify this info they start back pedaling, clarifying, and accusing the ones asking for the facts as involving them in an internet pissing competition. The joys of trying to wade your way through off the cuff dross masquerading as fact and getting to some genuine information that might be of actual use now or in the future. Ciao

My moneys on NOT, by some margin as well. Ciao

This unit will fit your bike with the exception of the gearbox input hub which should still be useable on your bike. So you will end up with a spare part to suit a 5 speed bike. http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=1698 Or you can spend 4 times the money with TLM. I know which I'd choose. Ciao

Yes I used the Benz one on the Daytona throttle bodies and it worked fine. Ciao

I wouldn't buy anything from TLM due to the frankly outrageous prices they charge. You can buy a complete new clutch assembly including flywheel for your bike from MG Cycles for around 6-700 euros. I also agree you check the clutch lever freeplay screw isn't restricting the master cylinder piston from returning to the fully out position which may cause the clutch to slip. Ciao

I have one of these. http://www.dynaplug.com/pro.html Ciao

That's because it is. Carb conversions are generally done by two types, first group, the strip it down to the bare bones and bugger the common sense real world day to day useable bike and the second group that's incapable for one reason or another of getting their head around even the basics of a std EFI system. The bonus is of course you get to spend around $700US to do the carb conversion when its all said and done to save a reputed 25LBS. Dont quite know where that figure comes from but there you go. Ciao

You probably had some air in the system before you replaced the levers so it was a little spongy which would give you an engagement point closer to the bar. Now with the system bled the engagement point is further out because the system has less sponge in it. Dont your new levers have adjustable reach? BTW the best method for bleeding by light years is with a pressure bleeder. You can buy one in the states for $60. Thats what I did. Vacuum bleeding is pretty rubbish and there is always the risk that when manual bleeding you push the master piston a lot deeper in the cylinder than normal and risk seal damage from the seal passing over an area it doesn't normally see. Pressure bleeding avoids this and makes fluid flushing really easy. Ciao

I cant honestly cant remember where my images came from. Ciao

Are these of any use? Larger version in my album. Ciao

Best and cheapest way to go I think is wheel hubs off a Cali and re lace with 17 inch modern tubeless alloy rims. There are wheels available from Ghezzi Brian and others but they are expensive. Personally I dont think wire wheels suit the style of a V11. Ciao

No, still working on it, I'm getting more patient as I get older. I'm visiting my friend in a month for a social visit and to get the welding done. He lives a thousand miles away these days so a visit and a few days catching up will be nice. I know whats going to happen when I pull the engine, I'll want to repaint the frame and pork chops as well. One thing turns into another. Probably end up a full resto. More patient but less sensable Ciao

Do the horn or any of the lights work with the ignition off chuck? Ciao

Now he tells us. Pilots, same everywhere:) Sounds like high resistance in the switch to me. Where's Kiwi Roy when you need him. Ciao

Chuck, try replacing the lights relay. If its stuck closed you will have power to the LOP light, the low fuel level switch and the tacho with the ignition switch off. You wont notice the power to the low fuel level light unless its low and not the tacho either. Ciao

After starting the bike on the charger you might. Always thought this was a big no,no Ciao

^ +1. Ciao

So here's my attempt to minimise any chance of cracking on the L/H mount. I've Radiused the sharp edge on the casting without reducing the thin section of the casing. This should help. I think the other side is the primary problem area. I need to get my friend who is highly experienced in these sort of repairs to weld the other side. The process is to chase out the crack entirely which I've done, pre-heat the case so its nice and hot and then make several small welds to fill the area and add some extra material. The welds will be peened in between each weld run while the material is still soft to reduce/correct any distortion of the end plate face. If necessary he'll re machine the end plate face. Ciao

Well the cracked gearbox case has been a factor. I need to visit a mate of mine to get it welded and i also need to get the side flow injectors cleaned and flow tested. Plus there's this little fellow (Merlin) thats arrived. I havent had a dog in a very very long time. Forgotten how much time goes into a puppy. More work than a toddler. Std Schnauzer btw. Ciao

Green top feed Bosch, cant remember off hand the flow rate but greater than the top feed red Bosch. The green side feed are also of greater flow rate than the green top feed. The side flow injectors are not only greater flow but also give cleaner and simplified plumbing and dont have the highly delicate feed hose connectors for which parts arent readily available any more. Ciao