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Lucky Phil

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Everything posted by Lucky Phil

  1. Here's an Aussie classic from the 80's. Best opening guitar riff ever for mine. Ciao
  2. Here's one of the great Aussie band of all time, Powderfinger. The last song of their farewell concert 9 or so years ago. One of their best songs, its all a bit emotional for everybody. Ciao
  3. I dont know what the mileage actually was which makes it hard to evaluate the longevity of components and where to focus on improving. I know what I was told it was by the seller that operates out of the states and we all would know but I cant seriously believe that figure after receiving the engine.The same as I cant seriously believe that it was a strong and healthy runner at the time it was parted out. To say I was disappointed at its condition when I received it would be an understatement. Wont be dealing with him again I can assure you. What I do know about these engines after 7 years of research and owning 3 pairs of heads off different engines is that the main issue with them is the top end. Valve guides wear badly as do lifters, rocker bushes and to some extent valve seats. Cams seem fine. The valve guide issue can be eliminated by using micropolished gas nitrided valves instead of the stainless versions. The bottom end has issues with the aluminium cam drive gear and oil pump drive gear and the oil pump running no bushing or bearing. The cam gears and oil pump gear in my engine were worn badly enough to replace but paradoxically the oil pump was fine. A little worn but usable. The heads on my engine had very bad guide wear (by that I mean 0.030" actual stem to guide clearance) and one head had 2 completely toasted exhaust valve seats, all four rocker arm bushes and pins were worn out and all the lifters were toast. Cams were ok. If my engine had a genuine 100,000 miles on it I would be ok with that level of wear but if it had 40 or 50,000 miles then I would be horrified. In general the std Daytona engine has a reputation as being a little fragile and wear prone and I would probably agree with that. Once the cam and oil pump drive gears and the oil pump are addressed then the bottom end is bullet proof. New guides and the afore mentioned valves and the use of high quality oil and I think the top end issues are also largely addressed as well. Ciao
  4. German DAS/DHS? oil pump and Joe Caruso steel gears. Sent the rods back to Carrillo for a refresh as well Ciao Yep good reliable setup. Joe Caruso is making oil pumps as well with the idler gear rotating on a fixed steel shaft like a Ducati pump. A better idea than all the Guzzi and even the aftermarket pumps with the idler gear shaft rotating in the pump housing. Ciao
  5. Perhaps I can stop filling the neck well up into the tank and see if this improves or abates. Maybe it only occurs after a fill up and that's why it has been so sporadic. As the tank heat soaks from the engine after you park it post tank fill they will often pass some fuel out the vent docc. Try topping right up and not so full and see the difference if any with regards to "spooging" When I refitted the tank after I put in the cam gears I kinked the vent hose. First indication was after the first ride I went to park the bike and the front fork leg hit the tank to the point where I couldnt lock the steering, both sides. I fixed the vent line and the tank stopped expanding and all was good. Amazing the tank would stretch on each side at least by 1/4 inch due to the pressure and heat rising from the engine. Ciao
  6. If you put your finger on the bottom of the butterfly shaft on the l/h throttle body you may also find where "spooge" is coming from. Raw fuel leaking from the shaft and dripping onto the starter cover and then the ground. Ciao
  7. No failure, just heavily worn top end really. I just wanted to do a full and proper rebuild. Its generally all or nothing for me in most things, or it used to be when I was more financial. I need to be a little more pragmatic these days. All this stuff was bought before I retired. I measured up the old mains yesterday and they are totally usable but I have new ones to fit. The heads will have brand new lifters, rocker arms, guides, L/H cam, valve springs,valves and seals. The cylinders have been re nikasiled as well, new piston and rings and I have a new RAM single plate clutch assy. Its basically going to be a brand new engine. Ciao
  8. German DAS/DHS? oil pump and Joe Caruso steel gears. Sent the rods back to Carrillo for a refresh as well Ciao
  9. I think earlier in this thread they said the 6 speed clutch was no longer available. You can still get them apparently. https://hmb-guzzi.de/Clutch-Internals_1 Ciao
  10. Big end clearances, both the same .038 mm or maybe a fraction under, perfect. Front and rear mains were spot on at .040 both ends.Middle of the range for the front and bottom of the range for the rear. Crank end float 0.10 mm, again spot on. ​Also spent some time with the die grinder de burring the crankcases, don't know why I bother really, just driven to do it. A bit of Chuck therapy I think. We all get it in different ways:) Ciao
  11. Lucky Phil

    DSC00685

    From the album: lucky phils V11

    Big end clearances, both the same .038 mm or maybe a fraction under, perfect. Front and rear mains were spot on at .040 both ends.Middle of the range for the front and bottom of the range for the rear. Crank end float 0.10 mm, again spot on. Ciao
  12. WTF, there's rubber toothed belts under the front cover as well !!!! Ciao
  13. Thing is Chuck the prep is so onerous stripping off the old paint and prepping the cases the painting itself takes on an elevated importance. You dont want mess it up and have to do that process again. I actually set up my bead blaster to use Sodium Bicarbonate. I'd not used it before. The Sodium media is quite mild and I just used it to clean up the cases after stripping. Its a good media to use if you have a small car body repair to do or a spot repair on a motorcycle you dont need to worry about the contamination of the surrounding areas. Just wash it off with water when your finished. Same with engine cases, no contamination issues unlike glass bead. The major PITA is the spare black crinkle finish gearbox that I plan on using. That stuff is a complete nightmare to remove! Ciao
  14. I've come to the conclusion that whatever paint scheme draws the eye to focus and centralize the image on the engine and fuel tank works for the V11. Looks good. Have you messed with the shift eccentric adjuster on the gearbox access cover? Ciao
  15. Just started to get this together after quite a few years. Prepping and painting engine components, what a PITA. Heads and crankcases to go. Used the kitchen oven to cure the paint today, hope the wife understands that needs must. Its slightly aromatic in the kitchen at the present:).Cylinder heads still require a light valve seat cut and grind after guide replacement. The grey turned out a little darker than I hoped for but what can you do. Ciao
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