Lucky Phil

Here's an image of my gearbox sleeve fully engaged in 3rd gear. The minor width of the sleeve is 10.4 mm and the major across the dog faces is 20.00 mm. From the parts manual all the part numbers for all versions from 99-2007 are the same the 3,4,5,6 sleeves (2 off) are 04214900 and the 1,2 (2 off) are 04213900. The MGS-01 are both different. Ciao

Thanks Scud, I have a new single plate hub so I know what the rim you are talking about is and I dont think its an issue. I would take a dual plate hub and get it surface ground back to the correct width with a bevel on the fwd face of the teeth.

Ok, cool its just nice to get an idea of the experience new people on the board have as it can help troubleshooting issues sometimes. Yes by load the lever I mean applying foot pressure and loading the lever before you pull the clutch. In effect you are loading up the gearbox dogs a fraction before you pull the clutch or roll off the throttle or both (if you do clutchless shifts) which means that when the load comes off due to roll off or disengaging the clutch the trans is already trying to select the next gear and the change is then instant and clean. I see a lot of mainly cruizer riders that pull the clutch then push on the shift lever in that order and it results in a clunky, noisy,balky and on some bikes missed shift. I rarely ride my bike around town so from second gear up I generally shift without the clutch but either way its clean and reliable. Generally a little slicker without the clutch. Personally I'd attack the origins of the problem even if it means pulling the box apart. I'm about to pull one down so I can strip old paint and repaint the cases. I'll get you a measurement today on the sleeve. I just cant see why it would be too wide unless its a sleeve from another gearbox or maybe an MGS-01 or something or the gearbox is somehow incorrectly assembled or shimmed. I havent had one apart as yet so I'm not totally familiar with what mistakes you can make during assembly. Scuds had one apart maybe he can think of a reason. Ciao

Without trying to be condescending but just to get an idea of your riding experience how much riding time and on what do you have. I ask only because the Guzzi technique tends to require you deliberately load the lever before you pull the clutch and roll the throttle. I see a lot of riders these days when I'm just walking about and they are riding the suburbs with the gear changes all clunky and horrible because they dont load the lever. On a Japanese bike you wont have an issue it will just deliver a clunky shift but on a Guzzi 6 speed it will result in missed shifts. Its also important to note that on a Guzzi you shouldnt be using 5th or 6th gear around town, or possibly even 4th as well. Like a lot of bikes the gearbox isnt spinning fast enough to give clean shifts at these speeds for the upper gears and a big twin engine wont like it either. You seem to be able to shift a Japanese bike into 6th at 60 kph for the most part so if you are used to them then it can be a bit of a shock to have to concentrate on shifting when you go to a Guzzi. You may know this already and sorry if that's the case. Very important to load the lever on the up and down shifts for it to give a clean and reliable shift 99% of the time. The major advantage of the extended shift lever is it requires more foot force or greater load on the shift lever (due to less leverage at the input arm) which when the clutch disengages the gearbox results in a reduced lever movement but also a faster action and cleaner shifts. Ciao

Scud can you take a twin plate hub and grind the face down to fit the single plater? I dont have a twin plate hub in my hand to compare. Ciao

Scud would be correct here, he's done a swap. Sorry if I misled you in a previous post. You do indeed need the single plate hub for the single plate clutch. Ciao

You need to get to the core of the issue which is why the drive dog or "hose" as the manual calls it appears to be too thick. Trying to grind the selector tracks to suit will not only be near on impossible but isnt dealing with the real reason for the problem. I doubt that an extra 2mm on the width of the drive sleeve or "hose" would be an issue anyway as that 2mm extra overall is 1mm each direction of movement and most transmissions have enough play in them that they when correctly adjusted they dont actually fully engage the dogs anyway but rely on the slight undercut to pull the dogs into full engagement. So its not unusual for the drive sleeve or the actual gear itself with its integral dogs to be a couple of mm short of total engagement when shifted on the bench. On a Ducati box you shim the shafts to try and even out this but its a compromise and as I mentioned when the clutch is released the slight undercut on each dog finishes the job of pulling the dogs into full engagement. The additional 2mm of width if in fact that's the case could well be where the additional strength of the drive sleeve is compared to the original. I'd be looking for another reason myself. I could measure the drive sleeve width for you so you can compare it with yours. How are you measuring the width? I dont think you can get a set of calipers in there or a mike. Ciao

From my dodgy memory the clutch pushrod needs to be machined down slightly on the OD at the pressure plate end to fit the ram pressure plate actuating button unless you can source a std single disk pushrod. Ill find out soon as I'll be fitting a 6 speed box behind my Daytona engine with a RAM clutch. whatever, it's not a big deal to sort out. ciao

No it shouldn't need adjusting after updating but it's worth checking as people have been known to fiddle with it anyway to try and improve the shift action. It seems you don't actually know how the box shifted before it was pulled down and updated, is that right? it sounds like the selector is over shifting the drive sleeve and jamming the selector arm and not allowing it to release so it can be in position to engage the selector wheel pin for the next gear. does your gearbox selector assembly have the second smaller accentric adjustment for the selector arm? I suspect it doesn't as its too early but you never know. If it does that could also be in the frame as a cause. ciao

Sounds like the main shift eccentric stop is out of adjustment. Check out the V11 shift improvement sticky thread and pull the selector assembly off and adjust it on the bench. Don't attempt it on the bike. ciao [docc/edit/link: V11 Shift improvement in "How To . . ." Thanks docc I'm working remote at the moment. ciao

That's it ciao

The kit comes with the gearbox input spline for the 5 speed box which won't fit your 6 speeder but you can use your original one if its not badly worn. Seems a shame though to fit a whole new clutch and flywheel and use an already worn gearbox input drive. ciao

It will but the gearbox input drive spline won't fit the 6 speed gearbox and the clutch pushrod MAY need to be modified. You can still buy the 6 speed input drive spline separately. ciao

When my drive side rear wheel bearing failed I found the bearing spacer was too short so I shimmed it to stop it loading the bearing. I did however notice that the bearings felt a little tight when installed and I postulated about fitting bearings with more radial clearance. ciao

Yes docc source some decent brand bearings, Timken, SKF, Koyo etc. After you install the new bearings can you report back on how the bearing feels to turn by finger. I suspect these may actually need bearings with C2 or C3 clearance for greater life. ciao

Worked on the sump and oil system today. Fitted it all up along with the ubiquitous Roper Plate. Engine kind of looks like a beach whale now resting on its flywheel. Next mission is to make a wooden engine support for the sump so I can get it upright again and pre oil the engine. For all the external fasteners I invested in all new Titanium fasteners. I cant stand the way passive plated ones weather and look horrible after a while. They are costly but if you sell the bike you can always swap them back to the std type and the new owner wont care or be the wiser. Its only nutters like me that will know,and everyone here now. New filter screen. Very nice oil filter access plate thanks to scudd.

Original oil pressure relief valve spring on the left and replacement on the right. Original wont get you past 55psi crack pressure, new spring takes you to the 70psi required. Heads are on, just sump to fit, prime the oil system then fit the oil pump drive, front cover and do the cam timing. Ciao

Thanks antmanbee, very kind of you. Ciao

Thanks Pete, much appreciated. Ciao

I'm with you Pete if someone could add me to your order I'd be greatfull and could help out with the shipping of course. Ciao

Hi Meinolf, is there any difference between the old large style TPS voltage profile and the later smaller version. I'd like to use the Centauro throttle bodies with the larger style TPS when I fit the engine to my 2000 V11 greeny which uses the 15RC ( I think?) ecu and smaller TPS. Thanks Ciao