Lucky Phil

Not much of any consequence happening really. I'm looking at the oil pressure relief valve at present and calibrating it. Its leaking badly and wont hold much more than 50 psi (manual says 70psi) It wouldnt cause an issue in reality but I'm trying to get it better than that. I've lapped the valve face to the body and checked it with engineers blue and its faces look good but it still leaks and if you shim it to a point where its getting acceptable then there's too much spring preload and very little travel left. I looked at Chucks old Aero engine thread as I remembered something about this and it turned out we arrived at the same testing procedure and solutions but not the same outcome as yet. I looked on Harpers at a new spring and interestingly their image with a rule next to it shows the new spring is around 1/8" longer than mine so it may well be that the spring has sacked out. I've ordered one so hopefully that sorts it. I find it hard to believe by virtue of its design that this valve wont have some leakage past the seal face before crack pressure is reached. Here's the inner sealing face(the blueish line at the bottom around the hole) And again. The valve sealing shoulder after lapping (The matt face on the flange after lapping) The inner and shoulder faces have complete contact after lapping. The whole assembly with spring preload washers and shroud. Oil enters from the threaded end of the body and applies pressure to the inside of the sliding valve which is held on the inner shoulder sealing face by a spring pre loaded by the threaded cap on the other end. Crack pressure is in theory adjusted by preload washers. Ciao

Dont worry too much about the valve stem seals. Ciao

Yep. Ciao

all the factory tanks are painted?? the only bubbling I'v e seen personally is the Rosso Corsa graphics, a film applied over color and (I think) under clear coat. Clearly this is complete rubbish as std tanks are painted and mine is 20 years old without bubbling paint. I've also had plastic Ducati tanks painted without issue. Ciao WRT paint damage, my Norge and Griso tanks have had the pox. The swelling of the tanks is a greater concern than the cosmetic "bubbles," as it's difficult to impossible to bolt the tank back in place. Ethanol is evil. Make bourbon from corn, not ICE fuel! I bought "spares" and swap them out after a year or so. After removing, I rinse them well with water and allow to dry. Have not tried the various internal coatings as they are co$tly and, it seems, also problematic with mixed results. My "fix" isn't cheap, but it's weasy and works. All bubbles disappear and the tanks shrink back to original size. WRT "wrapping," I have used the Plastidip https://www.dipyourcar.com-- assume this or similar what Walter means by "wrap" -- on Norge panniers and fairing after a gravity experiment went awry. Interestingly, the Plastidip red is almost identical to the Norge's red and with a the clear-coat Plastidip follow-on, the result isn't bad at all, especially for an on-the-road hiding of one's riding incompetence! That said, my level of application skill was, at least when I tried it last, insufficient and I have had those items repainted bu folks who knew what they were doing. It is nigh on to impossible to "feather" the stuff for a blended finish, so one must apply several coats over an entire surface to get the coverage and removal benefits. Hope the above was lucid, but no time to reread for accuracy. My "supervisor" wants breakfast; must go or pay the price. Bill Next time Bill leave this step out. It's not the Ethanol that causes plastic tanks to swell its the water it attracts. The tank material isn't totally impervious to water and that's what causes the swelling and that's why drying them out brings them back. It leaches the water back out of the tank material. Its also why straight petrol isn't an issue because it's not hydroscopic like Methanol Ciao

Pha....what, better looking than this Dave?

Clearly this is complete rubbish as std tanks are painted and mine is 20 years old without bubbling paint. I've also had plastic Ducati tanks painted without issue. Ciao

Would assembly lube also work? Yes I have moly assembly lube which I'll use on the gears same as when I fitted the v11 gears although then I used a very light coat of grease. What I'll also do which I did on the v11 gear install is put 300ml or so of oil into the timing case via the ignition pickup hole. This provides oil into the well area that doesn't drain into the sump which the oil pump gear runs in and when the engine starts the oil pump gear picks up the oil and transfers it to the crank and jackshaft/cam drive gear. Ciao

The Bimota? yes it is and small. I'm 6'2" and it was the only bike I've ever owned that while riding along no part of the bike was visible to you, even in your peripheral vision. Was like wooshing along 1/2 meter off the ground suspened in space. An absolute bastard to work on as well. Ciao

Best bike i saw in the collection of images was the DB1 (one of which I used to own) Its the ones he has messed with the least. Ciao

I've been there Chuck, should have dealt with something when I was in San Francisco when I was over there but didnt even think of it till I got home. I happened to buy 2 of these granite plates at the same auction and gave one to a good friend with an engineering business. His was nicer looking than mine with a green hue to it and a return around the perimeters. Apart from the obvious dimensional stability compared to steel he pointed out that if you do happen to damage one it will chip and not deform locally so although if damaged its still dead flat. Its a bit like owning a lathe, you dont use it all the time but when you need it you really need it and it nice to have there. The lapping plate is great to have, many of the crankcase surfaces, heads and barrels get a session on that to clean up the finish and confirm flatness. I even managed to use it on the crankcase sump surface, the plate was just big enough for that as well. I love the independence having equipment gives you and in reality I dont have much really. I'd have a lot more if I could afford it, justifiable or not:) Ciao

Progressing slowly. Cylinder and pistons fitted along with sundry cam drive bearings and spacers. New tensioner rollers and bearings fitted and seals replaced although it looks like I need to turn the tensioner rollers around for some reason looking at the shop manual images. No idea why it matters as they are dimensionally the same whichever way around they are fitted. All the ring gaps were measured and fine without adjusting. Piston to cylinder clearances were both 0.04mm and cylinder barrel faces given a light lapping on the lapping plate. I'll probably move onto the sump next and leave the heads until last just for the convenience of fitment and having the engine on the bench. A proper engine stand is what I really need. The plan is to have it all together with the exception of the timing cover and oil pump drive so I can spin the pump with a drill and prime the oil system then fit the pump gear and front cover. I expect it to be a bit messy this approach. Ciao Here's my granite surface plate and my lapping plate. I bought these about 20 years at a closing down auction for an engineering shop. Best money I ever spent. If you see some under the same situation snap them up. they come in handy for many things. Way to expensive to buy retail new, well back then they were.

Funny story. Couple of years ago they set the drug bus up on the hill coming out of Queanbeyan and were pulling over everyone. I was on the Griso with Mistral Hi-Pipe with dB killer in and the bloke in front was on an R6/R1 type thing. He had not only an open pipe but had tried that thing that 'tards do of mounting his numberplate inboard of the wheel in front of the shock. Oh my! That was fun seeing him get the third degree as they defected him on the spot, made him unscrew his plate, drug and piss tested him and then told him to @#!#$# off and walk home! They drug tested me but probably only because when they asked me if I'd ever taken narcotics I said "Shit yeah!" But then explained the last time was probably close to forty years ago and it was really shitty sulphate and I was ripped off! Not huge on the sense of humour that one! No issues with the noise though. Even though my Griso sounds like cheesgraters fornicating in an iron tank! Good one Pete. No sense of humor coppers. All about 18 years old these days and not enough mileage on them yet. I thought it was pretty typical when they were busted recently for fiddling the RBT tests to make their stats look good,sigh. Of course there are no booking quotas either. Ciao

When Pete says something, it pays to listen. He has worked on Moto Guzzis before. Looking at your first post, it seems like pic 1 oscilloscope trace shows a lower sensor voltage and lower speed than pic 2. The SENS813 is an inductive pickup, which would put out lower voltage pulses if the gap to the phonic wheel was large. I think you could try reducing the SEN813 sensor gap to the minimum, and temporarily leave the o-ring seal out, just to check. As I see it, the sequence of events in the ECU are: 1. ECU Power on, self test, sensor check, and pump prime. 2. The ECU then waits until SEN813 pulses reach a "run" threshold. 3. The ECU will then turn on coils and injectors as instructed by the BIN file program. If the SEN813 sensor is faulty, or if the gap is too large, the ECU will not power the coils and injectors. As Chuck mentioned, electrical connectors can cause problems, and it is a good idea to remove and clean the connector to the ECU. What does your instrument panel RPM display show during cranking when it is sparking and not sparking? Be aware too that your manual says "If in the wrong position, the bank angle sensor may lead to sudden engine stalling". You mentioned this at the start, but you could try disconnecting it. thanks marty. Today I heard from the owner, car hit the parked MGS! so reassembled the left engine head by ex-repair shop before. and that the engine did not start after that. If so, it would have been reassembled the timing belt. Fortunately,the valve and the pistons are not contact. there is strong doubt in timing belt assemble. i want to reassemble timing belt, but the contents of the manual are not sufficient. if there incorrect belt assemble, Could there be a difficult section of the starter motor running? (when Left piston do uprise, Right piston cause a pull?) I agree If starter motor running slow, it could interfere with the operation of Sen8I3 as pete said. As I said, troubleshooting step 1, what was the very last thing done on the bike before the issue? Ciao

I'm hearing you Pete. I despair these days watching morons riding around on old shitters from the 70's and 80's stripped back with no guards,indicators or mufflers, just straight pipes and the type of tires shown in the OP image. Back then (1980's) I had to keep a sharp eye out for the cops and those pricks from the EPA that pulled you over for a random noise check all because I rode a bevel drive Ducati fitted with Conti's. Now apparently anything go's including Harleys without any form of muffler. I swear 90% of Harleys here dont have mufflers but you never see them on the side of the road getting a defect notice. Rant over. Ciao

Mine stopped the cough as soon as I went to gear driven cams. Ciao

All I can say is I'd decline any ride on a bike with a front tyre like that. Ciao

I've just got this feeling that something basic but unusual is being missed and we've jumped to the complex stuff to soon. Try the bump just for the sake of elimination. Ciao

I didnt actually see the video in the original post so I checked it out. How about you put it all together and try bump starting it. Its a pain bumping a big Vtwin but i'd be interested to see what happens with the starter out of the equation. Even to see if it tries to fire up. IE you get an ignition event. I suspect the starter itself or the starter relay pulling the voltage down even with the other battery. Ciao

I could have sent you one of Chucks springs. Anyone out there that has a broken spring let me know I can send you one as I have spares generously donated from from scudd. Ciao

Excellent, do they by chance also have a bar that serves up a decent red as well Pete? Ciao

Here's a basic question......what was the very last thing you did to the bike before it wouldnt start? You would be surprised at the answers you get at times......" nothing really, gave it a wash thats all!!! Water, electrical connections? you know what I mean. Think about the very last thing. Ciao