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Lucky Phil

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Everything posted by Lucky Phil

  1. No the end is just drilled for the live centre. Too much stick out for a 10mm shaft for threading Titanium. You need the support. Safety wire is .028" my preference for most fasteners. Anything thinner is too thin and .032" is a pain to use. I have some thinner wire maybe .022" or something for light fasteners but I don't have much use for it on things these days. The breather is standard as far as I'm aware. Phil
  2. It's very common to have the rebound and comp in separate legs. USD forks and axles are very ridged these days so it's no issue.
  3. You should still be able to feel the damping working in the compression leg if they are indeed comp one side rebound the other especially if you remove the spring and pump the cart itself. Phil
  4. What was it like before you replaced the seals? Did you notice. The cart may have failed internally before you pulled it apart and you hadn't noticed. Failing that remove the cap and spring and manually pump the cartridge. Phil
  5. Ok thanks for letting us know. Looks like a few things to replace to bring it up to scratch. What part of the casing is cracked? Phil
  6. Machined up the other special bolt for the rear drive.
  7. Lucky Phil

    IMG_3689.JPG

    From the album: lucky phils V11

  8. Lucky Phil

    IMG_3687.JPG

    From the album: lucky phils V11

  9. Second bolt made and fitted.
  10. Lucky Phil

    IMG_3685.JPG

    From the album: V10 Engine

  11. I've used a lot of aluminium fasteners in aluminium cases without anti-seize and never had an issue. It's what I used before Titanium became affordable. They were anodised 7000 series though. A steel shaft in a bronze bushing is a bearing situation not a galling situation we are talking about here. In Ducati oil pumps the driven steel gear rotates on a ground steel post without any galling. Phil
  12. The thing people forget with dissimilar metal use is there needs to be some form of electrolyte between the 2 for any issue to arise. Putting dissimilar materials together in a benign environment isn't an issue but in a salt air or salt water laden environment then you can have problems. Phil
  13. Black 40mm Marzocchi forks without a separate axle nut ( the axle threads into the l/h fork leg) then yes they will fit. They will not fit the early silver 40mm forks because the fork bracket is different internally and the later black 43mm forks because the fork cap thread pitch and Diameter is different. Phil
  14. Yes, copper anti seize. Phil
  15. Not disappointed at all I'm aware of this and buy a lot of stuff that's made in China, pretty hard not to these days. The thing to bare in mind though is that at least large "known" brands have the buying power and leverage with the manufacturer to ensure high quality and sometimes I suspect better materials. There is also the question of quality grading. I have bought identical machinery tooling and accessories like rotary tables etc from a particular retailer and the exact same part from the exact same factory from other independent sources a few times now and the part from the original large retailer is always slightly better quality, fit and finish. I suspect they have the buying power to make the manufacturer send them the first quality items only and the lesser outlets get the second grade stuff. Phil
  16. I decided to fine tune the fuel mapping on the Daytona engine. The bike ran very nicely but at town speeds the initial crack of the throttle needed some refinement. It didn't jerk around or anything like that but I could here from the exhaust it wasn't perfectly clean although as I said it didn't present any rideability issues. I'm being super fussy here but I also now have access to original .bin files for the Daytona and Centy engines and my original map was quite a bit different so I decided to make up 5 new maps and load them and evaluate by the old seat of the pants methodology. Once I got to the second of my new maps I stopped there because the bike was running as close to perfect as you could ever want. Anyway here are the Delta main and offset maps to show the differences between my original maps and the new map I came up with and decided to stick with.
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  17. In my continuing journey to improve my machining skills I decided to make replacement Titanium bolts and washers that mount the rear bevel box torque arm bracket to the bevel box. One bolt and two washers done one bolt to go. I've also got enough Ti stock to make a replacement bevel box torque arm bolt as well. Phil
  18. Lucky Phil

    IMG_3677.JPG

    From the album: lucky phils V11

  19. Lucky Phil

    IMG_3681.JPG

    From the album: lucky phils V11

  20. I considered Aliexpress seals when I rebuilt my last 43mm forks but considering what a PITA fork seal replacement is and the small saving you make on the seals I went with a known brand. Phil
  21. The old help me fix this with "drip feed" information thread. Bean here many times. I guess we'll find out in 2 pages time it's got a 2 into one exhaust, pod air filters and high comp pistons. Phil
  22. So you don't mention that in the OP! Phil
  23. It's the sensor. Why would you chose the ECU ( the expensive bit) over the cheap less reliable component? As the engine warms up the trim reduces to zero at 90 deg C and then goes negative the hotter it gets after that. I think if you disconnect the sensor the ecu goes to a default temp setting. Phil
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