Lucky Phil

They are trying to remove the debris from the oil return before it gets back to the sump. Better than relying on the sump screen or having the rusty dust like particles go through the sump screen, scour the pump housing before being captured by the filter. Ciao

I tried that with my Daytona (same basic set up). It did not work out well, there was too much oil loss. I wanted it to work as I had issues with the spine frame leaking oil due to poor welding. So I wanted to be able to vent the motor to a catch can like a typical roadrace bike. It did not work out well due to the high amount of oil that was in the air being pumped out. I think it has the whole oil separator set up in the spine frame because it needs a way of separating out the oil from the air. Other big block Guzzi motors have also used a system that separates the oil from the air in a tank. You just need something of sufficient volume. You can also use a media like stainless steel wool to help. But you still have to provide a path for the oil to flow back into the sump. I actually like the Guzzi system, except when the frame is not welded properly and leaks / drips oil. Perhaps your results will be different. What you could use is a catch can type arrangement in the line thats designed to function as a gravity trap. Oil enters and leaves from the top of the can on its way back to the sump and all the contaminants have the time and space to settle to the bottom of the small receptacle where they can periodically be removed. Ciao

A one piece 270 degree crank would be fantastic. Its what all parallel twins need in reality. Ciao

Yes I understand that, just pointing out if you need new rods then steel is the superior way to go from an engineering perspective. Also the harsh reality is and not trying to be an ass about it is that you also can do without the oil pressure gauge if you eliminate the assembly errors. Ciao

What caused to Oil pressure failure? Ally rods in my view have their place.....in drag cars. The metallurgical facts remain as valid now as ever. Aluminium will fail eventually due to cyclic load strain no matter how small the loads are it will eventually fail. Steel properties are totally different in this regard, steel will sustain cyclic loads below the yield point for an infinite number of cycles. A second hand alloy rod that looks and measures up perfect will always have a question mark over it where a steel rod under the same circumstances wont. Tell you what if I was living in the states where Carrillo rods come from I know what i'd be using. The Daytona engine I'm currently putting together uses Carrillo's as standard. I sent them back to the factory states side and they refurbished them for me and posted them back for $120/rod. Great service and company. Ciao

Doesnt matter about the case numbers as you shouldn't/cant swap out one side for another. Vertical split cases generally have the main bearing bores align bored so cases are a pair. Ducati cases are number stamped on both sides with a matching 3 digit number so you can tell that you have a matched pair. You could always bolt odd ones together and align bore them and sleeve them I guess but thats getting fiddly. Ciao

Uh, have you ever tried to tune Dellortos? Nope never messed with Dells. But I have had some good experience with Webers on an Italian V12 or two not to mention Porsche and the older style Weber IDA's on an AC Cobra with the 427 side oiler of which was a major pain in the tush. As for motorcycles I mainly messed with a few sets of Keihin on my Old 78 Honda CBX's that had some work done on them with cams along with a D&D race exhaust and the Dyna S ignition system or to say just a tune up. And of course the old Mikuni carbs on the older bikes. Mainly going from the 28MM on the Z1 900 to the 29MM that came out on the J model 1000 and then tossed it for a Turbo and a Holley 650 under the seat. . So yes I used to be and still am a little bit of one of those guys on one wheel with their hair on fire. Back to the topic. With some help with the good people of this forum I might be able to overcome my O knowledge of electronic stuff and be dragged into at least what makes the V11 run. But those Mikuni flat slides sure do grab at me lol. Yep, they do look good. Ciao

Really?......I'll take the EFI every time. Thinking back on those carb tuning days makes me shudder, petrol and tiny jets and needles and crap. Fuel tank off bits everywhere, plug chops,ugh. Now plug and play, its all presented to you graphically as well as a 3d image and you keystroke what you desire and away you go. Perfection. The other advantage for EFI is that you can run a throttle body size to accommodate the horsepower you can make and not have the problem of trying to get the slower running carburation right. So to take an extreme example, a modern Ducati twin runs a 65mm throttle body which allows it to make the horsepower. The efi allows an engine of this capacity and power with the required 65mm size throttle body to carburate in the lower areas perfectly. If you swapped out the efi and fitted a carb that allowed you to make the equivalent power its almost impossible to get the carburation right down low without some extremely complex carb of large physical size and even then you have the all the horrible mess of the physical tuning. EFI was the breakthrough that made the original Ducati 851 series in the late 80's a competitive race bike, a large throttle body size to make the power without the almost impossible task of trying to get an equivalent size carburetor to carburate cleanly everywhere else. The same even applies to the old Guzzi, not quite as dramatically but its still basically the same. Ciao

I've been buying parts off them for years. Never had them do any shop work for me though. Ciao

Thanks,yes Griso Ciao

Hmmmm, I remember an issue with the Mighty Scura that required several people to fix at the spine raid.. 2018-09-10_08-34-08 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr No shortage of,ahem, experience there:) If thats your accommodation at a rally these days I must start getting to a few. Ciao

They looked fine to me @ 42,000 klm docc but more Guzzi experienced people might want to comment, Pete? Tensioner wear between .98 and 1.44mm, drive teeth looked perfect. Ciao

I agree and as I said was very skeptical. The only reason I can think of is the timing chain drives the ignition pickup wheel on the back of the cam gear which obviously is used by the ignition pickup to time the ignition event. Does cam chain slack affect the position slightly of the wheel and its triggering cutout to mess with the ignition timing occasionally? I still think its unlikely thats why I was wondering if a bike like doccs with quite a lot of miles up has the hiccup. I emailed Joe to let him know how satisfied I was with the gear conversion and he did mention without me translating to him of my running experiences that people that have converted to gear drive report the engine is sharper in response with the gears so my feelings were confirmed. So carbed bikes also suffer from the hiccup as well? If so then thats definitely an ignition issue. Ciao

This one docc is at around 2800-3000 rpm under just a wiff of throttle but in 3rd gear, not lugging it at all. It will just cough and miss a beat every klm or so under those conditions. Ciao Resolved with the timing gears? It appears so docc. I read years ago of the theory from many that experienced the same and couldnt tune it out that it was down to timing chain slack affecting the ignition pickup. I was skeptical so was wondering does yours do it seeing it has a quite a few miles up? Ciao

This one docc is at around 2800-3000 rpm under just a wiff of throttle but in 3rd gear, not lugging it at all. It will just cough and miss a beat every klm or so under those conditions. Ciao

Well spent a whole ride today trying my very best to induce a cough or hiccup but it just wouldn't do it. Maybe it is timing chain slack that is the reason. doccs got a lot of miles up and I assume his has some chain slack by now, wonder if his does it?....docc? Ciao