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Lucky Phil

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Everything posted by Lucky Phil

  1. Must be like me visiting the states and not seeing Jeeps. I swear I see a million more Jeeps here than over there. Maybe Americans are smarter than us. Ciao
  2. Biesel is not refering to the wrinkle finish paint but the satin black of later models. Ciao
  3. Bad news indeed,sigh.I had bought a bit of Daytona engine stuff from them and their service was brilliant. Ciao
  4. I dont think vapour lock will be an issue as the fuel is moving through the lines at a rate that precludes this. I've had bikes that vapour lock and its only ever happened when the bike is stationary fully warmed up on hot days. During normal ops they have been fine. There is an actual calculation for required fuel flow from memory so you can work out for the power you are generating what fuel flow you require and measure what you have with a stop watch and container. Edit.....try this. I havent had time to go through it and it wasnt the one I was thinking of but you get the idea. My back of the envelope calculation for a 100hp engine is 16 litres/hour (gas) so if your taps will flow half each of this you're golden. You should also check the needle valves will flow enough as well of course and the venting is capable. http://blog.cantonracingproducts.com/blog/how_to_estimate_your_engines_fuel_flow Ciao
  5. The flat tappet failures on the Nuovo 8V are I believe spring related, at least that is what I believe to be the root cause and over the last five or six years I've put a lot of time and research into it. Having stopped counting the number of rollerisations we've done once we went past a hundred I can assure you I've had a lot of failed componentry to examine and the pattern of failure is always near identical but the time it takes to occur can vary drastically. At the end of the day though I have not seen one motor go over 25,000 Km without damage, the problem is that unless you know where to look you won't know it's eating itself until it's way, way too late. If anyone wants the full explanation I can write it up again and post it up, I've done it piecemeal before but if you'd like the whole thing from the early history to when I drew my conclusions I can do that. For the last twelve years the CARC bikes and particularly the 8V's have been my muse. I really think they are superb motorcycles and the 8V engine, while not perfect, is certainly a tremendously enjoyable power plant and once the 'Elephant in the corner' of the flat tappet fiasco has been addressed are stone axe reliable. Mapped and tuned correctly they will produce an HONEST 100RWHP and over 70 ft/lbs of torque. Our 1400 motor makes little more in the way of HP but brings mid eighties ft/lbs of torque to the table basically from 3,000 right through to the rev limiter which was lowered from the 9,000 that was being used with the 1200 to 8,250 in respect for the heavier pistons. Note that our figures are almost universally lower than other 'Tuners' claim. This is because we aren't fantasists who put their 'Thumb on the scales'. I'd also like to take this opportunity to apologise to the people who have recently, (And not so recently!) PM'd me about sloppage sheets. I haven't been dropping in to V11.com much and have missed stuff but I've been tied up with what has become our 'Core business' which is 8V's and CARC bikes. Things have recently taken a huge turn for the worse though as my younger employee who was 'Learning the ropes' of Guzzi from me and was what was my 'Succession Plan' for the business recently had a serious crash on his RS125 'Prila and is currently in hospital after being airlifted to Sydney with a broken back. Unfortunately the prognosis is far from rosy. I have my own health issues too, most noticeably fairly serious and rapid onset rheumatoid arthritis which means it's getting really difficult for me to actually work on the tools for any length of time. As such I feel that the days of my business may be numbered but if there are still people after sloppage sheets I'm going to put in an order tomorrow morning for another ten which I'll keep 'On the shelf'. Best way to contact me though is probably via email motomodadotroperatgmaildotcom (you should be able to work that out! Anyway. Take care out there in V11 land! Pete Hey Pete, sorry to hear about you're young employee, hope he make a full or decent recovery. My wife has just been recently diagnosed with your affliction and its been a difficult year or so for her as someone that was at the gym 3 times a week and running half marathons trying to figure what was wrong. All that activity stopped for a year, but she is now diagnosed as of a few months ago and on the mainstream drugs prescribed and is returning back to normality. Hang in there and be patient, positive results will come. Ciao
  6. Hey docc, interesting SG data. I just assumed the water SG would be the greater but there you go. I did calibrate the tester I had by measuring out 10ml of brake fluid checking the reading and then adding water via a syringe at .1ml incriments and it looked accurate. The water mixed with the brake fluid quite well seemingly after a bit of shaking and stiring. Ciao
  7. V11 calls for "Maintenance - Check - Adjustment- Eventual replacement " every 12000 miles or 2 years whichever first. The Matrix has a header "Kilometers covered" then goes on to identify each mileage column in Miles Sound like there's a lot of arse covering at Guzzi:) Ciao
  8. I remembered something today and re visited the Dayton workshop manual. if you look at the servicing schedule it says for the "shaft with drive joints" "In the event of sporting use or regular high speed travel" REPLACE every 15,000 klms. So lube every 5000klms and replace every 15,000. Less regular lubing but more replacing than an O ring chain. Ciao
  9. As an aside docc my Focus reservior cap was leaking slightly a few months back and long story short I was surprised to find a lot of the modern automotive reserviors aren't a totally sealed unit as you might expect from the past or the motorcycle world. I checked carefully the rubber bellows and found a very small slit in the centre and thought I had found the culprit. Turns out the Escape cap seal/bellows was the same! Did some research including a patent search and found this is typical of systems these days on cars with small reserviors. Its a deliberate slit to allow for expansion and contraction that the small reservior bellows cant always accomodate. So there is an avenue for water ingress it seems. Issue on the Focus turned out to be due to over filling and in these non totally sealed systems that can cause annoying leakage around the cap. Ciao
  10. The Daytona / Centauro motors are the ones with "high wear"? Are you sure? Pretty sure the 8 valve Griso motor design was so F'd up they had to retro-fit roller lifters as the valve train was trashing itself. It seems they did not get the original design right. Perhaps the roller version will last, we don't know yet. But I would not call the 8 valve motor a better designed motor. But for me, the main thing that puts the Daytona / Centauro motor ahead of the 8 valve motor is I prefer the feel, the raw character, of the old 4 valve motor. The new 8 valve motor is too boring for me. The 8 valve motor had a history of lifter failure due to using DLC coated lifters which wasnt appropriate for the application and oil "mayo" that used to effect engines esp in cool climates. There was also a cam shimming mod. Once they got those items sorted with the roller conversions and included into production they were a great engine from all reports. Oil cooling to the heads another benifit. I have a Daytona/Centauro engine apart in my workshop for rebuilding plus a spare set of cases and 6 cylinder heads. I've never seen such bad guide wear as the original heads displayed. Guide wear on several were 0.030" or 0.80mm!!!! thats not stem wobble thats actual guide to stem clearance. All the lifters are gone on the faces along with the rocker feet where they ride on the lifters, and serious valve seat recession on at least 2 seats which will require replacement of the seats. The other second hand heads aren't much better. I investigated the valve geometery and its not good at all which is part of the reason for the heavy guide wear. So the fix will be new gas nitrided valves along with K-line of the guides although the really bad ones will need guide replacement and then K-lining, new lifters, cams have escaped damage, new seats on the bad head plus all the usual. May convert to the later MGS roller bearings on the cams, dont know. The valve coating and K-lining should help the guide wear esp since I dont do a lot of klms. parts are either non existant or maga expensive if you can get them. I'm embarrased to say this engine has been awaiting the heads rebuilt for quite some time now as the rest of it is ready to go back together, re nikasiled bores and new pistons, refurbished carrillo rods ( done by Carrillo) all new bearings, Caruso steel cam and oil pump drive gears and German oil pump.Must get onto this:) The Dayton/Centauro engines are beautiful looking engines but as I said a bit fragile and wear prone in std form even before hotting up. The 8 valve motors have been around in their final roller form for about 5 or 6 years now and by all acounts bullitproof. Pete Roper would be in a better position to comment but I think I can garantee he would back me up on this. Ciao
  11. Its an interesting question and since water is heavier than oil I'd assume it would work its way to the bottom of the system eventually. Data would be interesting for sure. Ciao
  12. You just made my point. Recommended replacement is every 2 years, not that I've been particular about doing it this often. The dealer called the other day during the service of my wifes 2 year old Ford Escape saying the brake fluid needed changing out as it was +4%. Being the scepticle type I said dont bother as it was and added cost and It sounded over the phone like a extra work generating thing. As I said I am aware that the recommendation is change every 2 years but this car gets an easy life in benign weather conditions so I let it slide but thought I'd invest in the tool. I was thinking it should go well past 2 years, but I was wrong, it was over 4%. I actually checked the calibration of the tool before I started as well to be sure. I also checked my 1 year old Focus and it was under 1%. The V11 was over 4% as well and I changed the fluid out. The V11 didnt surprise me but the wifes car did and based on the Focus being under 1 % I can only assume the Escape probably left the factory with suspect fluid. So I've got a lot of brakes to bleed now. I've had a vacuum bleeder for years and not been impressed with it to be honest so I also invested in one of these. Makes brake bleeding super simple on cars esp, dirt cheap and adaptors available for just about everything made including bikes. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Motive-Products-0100-Pressure-Brake-Bleeder-Wilwood-Master-Cylinder/131499801918?epid=1128155773&hash=item1e9dffbd3e:g:BjkAAOSwMl9aXVVA Ciao
  13. I would say the 4Valve Grisso motor with the roller lifters is a far better unit than the Daytona or Centauro engines which have less than ideal valve geometery and high wear on everthing head related really. Guides, rocker pins, lifters, rocker feet, cracking at the guide bores, the list goes on.Top end engine parts are now almost non existent as well but if you can find them you will need to sell your first born to afford them. Maybe not so dear after all:) Ciao
  14. Thats commitment right there:) BTW I've owned 3 RSV Aprilia's, 2 R models and a stocker, very underated sports bike. Ciao
  15. Mine arrived today, everyone needs one. Same as the image in the post below. Ten bucks on fleabay. I checked the accuracy and its spot on. Ciao
  16. Yep docc that'l do it. You can use it on the tank as well or anywhere else for that matter. You can install it by wetting the surface( and the the film) with water with a tiny little bit of Johnson baby shampoo and applying and sliding around till you have it where you want it then squeegy out the water and its on there. Quite amazing really. Its very stretchy and will form around a 3D surface. Plenty of youtube stuff on it. You might have to compromise on the metal mount inserts docc simply due to the scarcity of sellers for Guzzi stuff, but you could ask them I guess. You can afford to be picky about the Ducati stuff as there is a ton of it out there. I'm surprised about the first post supplier as the mounts look like they are around 6mm or so in depth which would seem to indicate its a replacement for the original cover. If it was designed to go over the original alloy one the mount tabs would only be a mm or 2 thick. Translation issue maybe? Ciao
  17. I tell you docc the 3M pro clear car bra stuff is mega for this. It obviously wont help if a big rock hits your cover but for everthing else its great. I just fitted some to my car front and hood to help with stone chips. These days the tech is impressive, self healing so if it gets damaged you can either leave it in the sun and it will heal or hit it with a heat gun and watch the damage disappear. I believe you can also get it in a non gloss finish and its also available in small quantaties on flebay. With it fitted it also protects your car from keying scumbags, truly impressive stuff. Ciao
  18. Sound good. Ciao
  19. Yes docc add it to the faint clunking/rattle feel through the footpeg on floating throttle when your rear wheel bearing is totally shot with about 500klms left in it. Ciao
  20. Gee Chuck beers expensive in your parts. Ciao
  21. As Chuck said OEM and VERY hard to come by these days. Grab one if you see one for sale, they are by far the best looking rack out there and aluminium to boot. Ciao
  22. Not really docc, not specifically, there's just so much of it out there. I've bought a LOT of CF stuff over the years for Ducati's mainly, including genuine factory WSB stuff including fuel tanks and the quality is massivly variable. Its mostly ok these days the major difference being wet lay CF verses the proper Autoclaved pre preg stuff. The later is a lot more expensive and aimed more at genuine weight reduction and strength. CF has become 21st century chrome now and deviated a lot from its origin of purpose but as long as you accept it as predominently modern bling then its all good. This cover looks wet lay to me not prepreg, probably polyester resin, room cured and vacuum bagged but you need to see the non finished side to tell for sure. 'The main reason I havent bought one of these for the V11 in the past is because this cover cops a fair amount of road debris damage and the CF one will look pretty tatty in fairly short order unless you put something like 3M Pro clear over it. You can buy this in small amounts and its self healing as well. That should protect it. Ciao
  23. One of my touchstones for quality CF docc is the mounts. Do they have alluminium inserts at the mount points? Generally speaking the quality stuff makes the extra effort to have the inserts to prevent overtightening of the mount screws and cracking the CF. These dont but it doesnt disqualify them altogether as it is an almost purely decorative cover for the most part. You just need to be very carefull when mounting and use loctite on the screws without much torque. The cost isnt outrageous. Ciao
  24. I think you need to add a zero to that number. 100,000US is about 10 billion Kiwi dollars remember:) Ciao
  25. Series C Rapides are such a nice looking bike, they seem to have the right proportions. Engine designed by and Australian as well:) Funny story I read in a bike mag a few years ago. This Journo reccons there is a world wide Vincent owners conspiracy. Says no Vincent owner will let you ride their bike, not because they are afraid you will crash it but because if they do other riders will find out just how very ordinary they actually are,lol. Once you buy one and find out you then need to keep the secret, which apparently isnt hard to do after shelling out silly money. PS........ I've know someone for many years thats owned one for as long as I've known him and he would never let me ride it. Ciao I think you might be right about Vincent owners not wanting folks to touch their bikes. He was totally gassed when let me finally try to kick start it. And then he had no choice but to have me help him push it up to his house. He mentioned to an inquiring onlooker driving a new Corvette that the bike cost him $60k. He and I went riding a few days later, he on his Multi 1200 and me on the Greenie. He didn't leave me but we did kick it over 100. He told me he got the Vincent running but I've not seen it run personally. I'd be interested to ride one and I love the look of them and the engineering. Quality engineering is timeless even just to admire. When I see the cost of some of these bikes I reflect upon the fact that for the same money or in some cases even considerably less you can buy a garanteed future classic new or almost new right now. Ducati 1098R for example, sand cast crankcases, Titanium rods, limited production Ohlins suspension plus other bespoke stuff. A future classic for a fraction of the price right now. Second hand of course. I bet for a $100,000US you could get a Britten V1000 built for you by the Britten guys in NZ as well. Ciao
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