Lucky Phil

Oooh, thats nasty. Glad you got away with that, Relatively. Yes I'd go with the non lubed sealed units. I'll check my Rossopuro unit rod ends.How many miles on the torque arm? Ciao Edit....my Rossopuro arm has sealed rod ends, ie... no lube points. and yes I've seen rod ends fail like this before through the lube point.

Well.. seeing as how you are there.. that statement has gotten a lot of people in trouble.. it only takes a few minutes to lap the valves in if necessary. Edit: I see we were typing at the same time, Phil, so let me say that if the valves aren't leaking, I wouldn't bother. You can turn them upside down, pour a little kerosene in the chamber and see if they leak. It's interesting, things come back full circle. The original post about the valve work is probably from years ago when you used to "pull the heads" periodically to de coke the valves and pistons so when the re ring time came you would freshen up the heads as well. Those long gone days are now back again! I see a significant issue with the latest direct injection petrol engines is inlet valve carbon build up that requires mechanical cleaning methods. The reason? no more port injection spraying fuel and its detergents onto the back of the inlet valves to keep them clean. PCV recirc air with a little oil vapour in it and no fuel wash builds up on the valves and causes poor performance and ecconomy and when it gets really bad hesitation and misfires. To complicate matters you can't just use water injection or sea foam or the like to break it free because a lot of these engines are turbo and any broken free carbon going down the exhaust will take out the turbo turbine vanes. Ciao

Well.. seeing as how you are there.. that statement has gotten a lot of people in trouble.. it only takes a few minutes to lap the valves in if necessary. Edit: I see we were typing at the same time, Phil, so let me say that if the valves aren't leaking, I wouldn't bother. You can turn them upside down, pour a little kerosene in the chamber and see if they leak. Ha yes Chuck I stray off the subject some times and need to look at the post a few times and edit:) Ciao

Thanks, will be interested to see how durable it is. I need some grey for the Daytona cases. Ciao It's holding up really well on my BMW transmission and driveline - and so far so good on the Scura. Note that the Engine Case paint is different than the Engine Enamel - I'm not sure how it's different, but the case paint says it's specifically for motorcycle engines. I got a can of VHT's Engine Enamel in a color they call Nu-Cast Aluminum. I'm hoping that will be a good match for the cylinder heads. Ah, very good thanks for the feedback. Ciao

Well it's not a bad idea while you're there with the heads off to pull the valves and clean the carbon off the back and look at the sealing faces but thats just a "nice to do seeing I'm in here" thing. If the valves and seats are in decent shape then re lapping them wont be necessary. All you're doing is taking life out the seats and valve faces. So unless there is some sort of significant valve issue then no, the re ring wont affect the valves. Chuck? Ciao

Hey Chuck, identical to the one I use most often. Ditto on the methodology. Ciao

Thanks, will be interested to see how durable it is. I need some grey for the Daytona cases. At 12,000 miles I'd do nothing but repalce the gaskets an O rings. Pull the pistons and install them in the cylinders with a piston ring compressor from the cylinder base. They are cheap and if you break a ring you'll need to buy a full set which isnt cheap. You need a ring compressor, everyone does, doesnt need to be an expensive one. Ciao

I had this issue until I turned the spring up side down, then it didnt drag. Ciao

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19814&p=218299 PM sent. Ciao

Hey Scud what brand of paint are you using? Ciao

When you line up the timing marks on the crank sprocket and the cam drive sprocket the drive pin for the cam and the phonic wheel should be at around 11 oclock when looking at it from the front. The missing teeth in the phonic wheel should be at about 8 oclock. Ciao

I personally like the Braking front disks I have on my 1000ss over the Galfers. Just look nicer IMHO and work just as well. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BRAKING-BREMSSCHEIBEN-ANTER-WELLE-FLOTT-MOTO-GUZZI-1100-V11-LE-MANS-00-2001-02-/132132091960?hash=item1ec3afb838:g:jfwAAOSwHnFVxu3W Ciao

The clearance to the small eccentric was loose. Thinking back on it, it's probably my fault. When I initially did the shift-improvement on this bike, it was the first time I had ever opened any transmission - so it's not a surprise that I didn't get it right the first time. Then I just assumed all my problems were due to the clutch not being right. I did't notice the lack of bushing till I went to put the cover back on the spare trans. Two bushings. Wouldn't fit. So yeah... I'll go soak both bushings in some penetrating fluid and see if I can remove one easily. Then drain the oil, remove the starter, pop the cover (yet again). I might sneak in a few more miles before I do it though, cuz I am so happy on my red bike now - like this little fellow. Do you know why Moto Guzzi added the metal banana? What's it supposed to do? Cheese-head wants to know. Oh OK, the banana link seems to add some support to prevent the selector wheel posts from flexing. I fitted the mod kit to mine which came with all the required parts. Still cant imagine those posts flexing though, I suspect the Guzzi flywheel man looked at the mechanism and figured it was underweigh and corrected it.) Ciao

Galfer front and rear. Front are very common fit listed for V11 and many other bikes inc my 2003 Ducati 1000SS the rear is for some sort of scooter Galfer P/N DF005W. Ciao

Which eccentric was loose Scud, the small one? Glad you got it sorted and the info is valuable. I would still pull the cover and fit the bush though, but thats just me. Ciao

I would try the spare but for the purposes of comparison and information check the differences between the two. As you shift through the gear selections on the bench look at the minimum clearance on the shift pawl arm to the smaller eccentric adjuster shown ctr left on the photo. Make sure it's at least 0.030". 0.040" should be ok as well. Next select the gears one by one while using your fingers to provide a little resistance to the selector wheels and note when the selector wheel drops into the detent whether or not the input arm has contacted the large adjustable stop. You will probably find that in some gears it will hit the stop in one direction befor the selector wheel detents ( meaning the detent arm,roller and spring are actually doing the work of pulling the gear into final mesh, not your foot on the lever) and will be off the stop in the other direction when it detents and if you continue to move the shift lever input arm it will actually start to move the selector wheel back in the direction of de selecting that gear. You need to provide resitance to the selector wheels thought as you do this so they dont snap into the selected position. so you can see whats going on. If there is a big difference between the gears selected positions after this check then adjust the main stop eccentric so that it selects the gears fully with no or minimal overtravel ( or tendency to try and de select the gear). It is very sensative and fiddly which is why you shouldnt do it on the bike. It will probably be a compromise which is why on my other trans I added some weld to the stops to eliminate the compromise. The other reason you MAY have 3rd to 4th issues is that the selector sleeve and/or gear dogs are worn and a little rounded off from missed shifts. When these are worn and have rounded corners then they dont "grab" the next gear as effectivley early in the shift phase and its harder to get a clean shift. Ciao

From a local company Metalgear Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk I still like mine better:) Ciao

Actually, there is more to it than that. There is a thermal shock element, I think. At any rate, baking before welding is a better than good idea. That's somewhat true Chuck, more the mitigation of distortion though I think. The lesser the heat gradient during welding the less distortion. My friend that has vast experience welding Ducati cases showed me how after welding near the main bearing bore the hole became somewhat out of round. The solution?......a hammer and small steel drift and peen around the cases internally adjacent to the main bearing bore and weld and presto tension forces released and bearing bore round again. I have used the clean the cases and warm them up to locate cracks before. The oil will seep out of the crack and is faintly visable. Dye check is way better though. Dont know where the l/h lug crack originates but I do know it has a flat face machined on its outer face with no real radius on it. Anyone confirm if this is where it cracks or is it where the lug joins the main case? Ciao I am pretty clueless what you asking about. Perhaps the photo doesn't answer your question. If you follow the face of the lug ( the machined face where the frame member clamps onto) down towards the body of the case from the rounded top there is a small step created by the process of machining the face flat. It then steps out to a wider cast step ( where your fingernail appears to be resting) and then again to the main body of the case. Is the cracs origin at the first small ( maybe 2mm wide) step caused by the machining the lug face? Ciao

Actually, there is more to it than that. There is a thermal shock element, I think. At any rate, baking before welding is a better than good idea. That's somewhat true Chuck, more the mitigation of distortion though I think. The lesser the heat gradient during welding the less distortion. My friend that has vast experience welding Ducati cases showed me how after welding near the main bearing bore the hole became somewhat out of round. The solution?......a hammer and small steel drift and peen around the cases internally adjacent to the main bearing bore and weld and presto tension forces released and bearing bore round again. I have used the clean the cases and warm them up to locate cracks before. The oil will seep out of the crack and is faintly visable. Dye check is way better though. Dont know where the l/h lug crack originates but I do know it has a flat face machined on its outer face with no real radius on it. Anyone confirm if this is where it cracks or is it where the lug joins the main case? Ciao

Maybe the guy has never done this on a V11 before, so his mind is not clouded by *conventional wisdom* and really has found a great way to get the gearbox out&in with minimal wrenching? Sign of brilliance . . . Yes, rather clever. The only thing connecting the rear wheel assembly to the frame is the brake line. I would not have thought it possible to get the tranny out without at least somehow disconnecting the engine from the frame. He will need to be careful getting the swingarm pivots threaded back in without stripping the threads, mine are very fiddly without all that wheel and stuff hanging on to the arm Ciao

Depending on stock, etc.. that price is *easily* beatable. Dont know that this part would fit the V11. The original V11 p/n is 01202830. Ciao That diagram is for a 1995 Sport (1100) and is the correct part: GU37202805 Gearbox connecting plate Let me check my records on the part number I posted to be sure it is not a dealer stocking number or a mistake. edit: The dealer invoice from 5 Feb 2004, only says "bracket" and "item number" 01202830. ($18.75US back then!) So, I am not convinced that is the actual Moto Guzzi part number. It is Docc, straight from the parts manual for a 1999-2000 V11 Ciao

Depending on stock, etc.. that price is *easily* beatable. Dont know that this part would fit the V11. The original V11 p/n is 01202830. Ciao

Thanks Docc, I got both the size and material wrong, doh Ciao

Ok cool, looks like I was wrong about the size and material of the original plate, sorry. Ciao

As I mentioned in my selector rework thread I would never attempt to adjust the excentric on the bike,its way too sensitive for that.Try pulling it off and adjusting it on the bench. It adjusts the relationship between the shift stop and gear selector travel. I found that you can actually adjust it so that in some gears it will underselect the gear and conversly overselect another and fully select the gear and then start to actually pull it out of gear before detenting. It's then up to the gear dogs to drag it fully back into engagement.Try pulling it off the trans, put it on the bench and run through the selecting and you will see the relationship I'm talking about and see how it is in the 3rd to 4th selection. If its not great then adjust the eccentric to optimise this pair even if it compromises another pair a little. I actually added some weld to the stops on one of my transmissions. Hows it up shift 3rd to 4th without the clutch Scud? Ciao