Lucky Phil

These look cooler Ciao

You're back Chuck, not a slow trip i see Ciao

I straightened the pawl arm in the vice with a large shifter to do the tweeking. Its easy to over bend and you need to ID the point at which the bend needs to be made or if its truly banana shaped. With regard to the pivot end use a set square and make sure the arm is at 90 deg to the pivot pin and adjust if not. Make sure the shifter input shaft is fully seated in its cover bush and the return spring isnt fouling anything ( its the right way up)as this will cause the selector arm to be too high. As long as when the shifter arm is properly located and you pull up on the wheel (with its circlip installed) there is just a fraction of clearance this will be ok. It will only need a thou or so. If all else fails I would take a little off the input shaft bush and shim the selector arm down a the pivot with a small shim to clear the gear wheel but it would be a last resort. Get it straight first and the surfaces fully on the pins. Your finishing of the selector arm faces looks fine now. From memory the shift action is normal and the force required is controlled by the detent spring and the profile of the detent cutouts. They will be slightly small than the DIA of the detent roller so there is not freeplay when in gear. Check the detent roller is sitting parallel to the selector wheel so the roller sits correctly in the depressions and if not pull the arm and bend it a little so it does. Its a mechanism full of stamped arms which never come out flat and its put together on a production line with no time to properly fettle so all this is normal blue printing adjustments. Ciao

A few things, the selector arm needs to be straight for bend and twist and the correct angle to the pivot pin and getting there is not as easy as you may think. Finding the point where it is bent with a straight edge is the way to go and working it. As I said its not easy and requires some experience. The marks on the pivot end seem to be factory grind marks as well not wear or rubbing. The marks on the return faces of the selector arm in the second photo are an issue for the return. See how notchy it is and bears on one side, see my rework thread but essentially you draw file the face ( ie file along the surface not accross) to remove the wear knotches and align the surface so it bears fully on the pins. Depending on how deep the notches are you may not be able to remove them completely but you need the full face bearing against the pin. Partially assemble the mechanism and check with some engineers blue or similar to confirm you have it right. Do both faces of course. I would replace the return spring while you are in there and check you have it the right way up as one arm can rub on the cresent shaped section of the cover internally if its not and that can affect operation. Some slight rubbing of the selector arm on the wheel will be ok but it should not be creating any friction. Adjust the main eccentric so that as you run through the gears it doesnt over select or under select to any great extent. Its a balance and its a sensitive thing . Ditto the Three bond 1194 Ciao

Will that product Flitz put the shine back in the CF parts? mine are definitely faded. Yours aren't faded they are a matt finish. Nicer looking in my opinion Ciao

Yes they need to be pulled into place somewhat. Ciao

Strangely you and I have owned the same bikes but not concurrently. I to have had a VFR750 and an RC30 as well as the current V11 Greeny. Ciao

We know that you got the idea, trialed it, and then told everyone. Well done you too!It wouldn't have happened without your efforts. Thanks, as long as people are happy with the way it works then I'm happy. Ciao

I was interested in the mechanics of this Chuck and now I know. That's quite a bit of work there, well done. You've made my attempt look rather pathetic:) Enjoy your days off at the rally. Ciao

You know, come to think of it...I think I did actually hear boiling when I tried to start her up after the struggling startups yesterday. Thank you Scud! You wont hear any clutch fluid boiling and it wont happen anyway, not with the arrangement a guzzi has. Did you check the fluid quantity? if its overfull the fluid has nowhere to expand to when the engine and OAT warms up. Its a long shot but the first thing to check Ciao

Check all the usual stuff from easy to difficult. 1.Check the master cylinder is fully extending ( IE the clutch lever doesn't have a lot of free play and is flopping around) the piston may be corroded up and the seals leaking or the holes into the reservoir are blocked. This may have caused the slippage initially and if the seals have now gone or the reservoir holes are blocked may be the reason for the failure to now not disengaging. Check the fluid level isn't too high. 2. If the master cylinder is ok pull the slave off and check that for leakage or damaged seals which is a whole lot harder. 3. Leave the splitting the engine and trans till last Ciao

On my bike, the bush protrudes from the foot pedal lever (item 1), and just fits into the hole in the pushrod drive lever (16). That lever (16), that Chuck is making, has the rear lower hole the same size as the bush (2) OD, not the pivot bolt (5) OD. At least that's what I'm expecting when the slow boat from California arrives, and that's what Chuck's CAD drawing seems to show.I made new bushes (2) for my Pedal Lever, and I expected to be able to drive them further in, as Docc suggested, and trim them off later, but no. The counterbore for the outboard bush was about 10mm for a 10mm long bush. At the inboard side, the counterbore was about 8mm for the 10mm bush. The bush is designed to protrude. V11 Shift Lever.jpg This is correct from my experience. I did the same, made new bushes and modified the bolt so the threads didn't destroy the inner bush. Ciao

The part numbers for all models from 99-07 are the same. Complete assembly and the steel lever itself. Ciao

Well docc if they were for my bike they would be in the rear caliper un-bedded in for all eternity Ciao

Skud my 2000 Greeny is the same as the top one in the photo with the extended bush. I also have a spare assy off a V11 Rosso Corse and its the same, with the extended bush and they came out when, 2004? Dont know. Ciao

I'm happy if it improves the riding experience for you guys. Besides Chuck has done all the amazing work Ciao

In 5 or 10 years time Chuck we will be just emailing the the file around for this to everyone and you'll take it down to the 3D print shop at your local shops and they'll print you one up on their powdered metal laser 3D printer.In the mean time we have to rely on skilled people like yourself to create something out of nothing:) Ciao

Remove the cover and adjust the main eccentric as explained on the bench. Don't try it on the bike, it's too sensitive.While you have it apart follow the rework info as well if possible Ciao

You're the man Chuck I'll take one for the cause. I looked at making a complete one as well but I'd have to do it by hand which I would have if it was a flat piece, so I just went the weld on option. I did do a validation trial with a bolted on piece just to test though. I'll have a "Gator red" one Chuck Ciao

Docc the surface has turned to metal because they are sintered metal pads, thats how they look. Put them on a flat surface with some 180 wet and dry and give them a dry rub. Although they do look like they need replacing. Ciao

What you are refering to is the "Swiss Cheese" model of accident causation, well known in the aviation industry. For those interested in such things check the link (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_cheese_model) I've seen many filter related issues over the years and generally over torquing can be as bad as under torquing filters.Under torquing them sees too little compression of the seal and they will come loose, over torquing them sees seal distortion and the seal can leak or under some conditions be displaced and leak catastrophically (cold oil and high pressure) I've seen them come loose and throw the rider off in an Australian Superbike round, I've had them pop the filter seal off on a cold morning in the pits warming up the engine before practice (refit the seal and re-torque the filter and its all good??) etc, etc. I also had an MV 750 for a while there ( modern one) and one model came out with incorrectly machined oil filter mount fitting threads and the filter would come loose after a while. A friend of mine experienced this at Easter Creek on the front straight at a track day. People wildly waving their arms at him as he was tucked in down the chute heading for turn 1 at 250KPH with the bike smoking madly. Didn't see them of course and tipped in with oil all over the rear tire. It didn't end well. For what its worth I just torque it to the manufacturers specs use no hose clamp and check the oil pressure light is on before start up. A filter fitted right shouldn't come loose, it doesn't on any other engine (apart from a specific technical issue as with the MV) and a Guzzi twin is nothing special in that regard. I think the main issue is that the old Guzzi is probably worked on by more backyard mechanics than most and not enough regard is given to proper fitment. Ciao

It was a Wix 51215 with a square rubber O-ring. I have a new pump waiting to go in. The old one was scored up a bit. There are 2-3 tiny (~0.5mm) pits on the crankcase surface of the pump as well. I don't think they will hurt. I am completely tearing down the engine. At this point the only thing left together is the oil regulator and I have yet to get the studs out of the crank case. Why do you need to remove the crankcase studs? Ciao

You can use the undersize bearings from the earlier models I here, like the old Ambassadors etc Was you oil pressure warning light working in the end? Ciao

If I could buy a grp 4 or 5, -10W/40 then I would. Ciao

Hi Phil, I agree that Mobil 1 is good oil, but is it a "group 4" these days?I see ExxonMobil make this claim on their website about Mobil 1: "A synthetic lubricant contains more highly refined base oils than conventional mineral oils". This is very different to their claims years ago, when they were very specific about their chemistry being man made, not made from crude oil. When Castrol reformulated (downgraded/cheapened) their group 4 Syntec to group 3 mineral oil in the mid 90s, and still called it synthetic, Mobil sued Castrol over misuse of the word synthetic, but lost. Now everyone sells synthetic oil which is actually Group 3 mineral oil, rather than Group 4 synthesised oil. The word synthetic now just means "premium" for lubricating oil. I'd be really interested to know what Mobil states on your drum of Mobil 1. Does it say Group 4? The only group 4 oil I can find in NZ is Penrite 10Tenths, a good Aussie product, which specifically says is made of 100% PAO (polyalphaolefin) & Ester chemicals. My next oil change for the upcoming summer here will be to Penrite, now that I know the temp of my oil, thanks to a dipstick thermometer Scud sent to me. Well it depends on who you talk to and many believe its irrelevant anyway. I'm aware of the 90's Mobil/Castrol legal squabble and the outcome decided by a Judge (oil expert apparently) I suggest you consult the excellent "bobistheoilguy" site and while away the hours reading all the points and counterpoints on this. Its a great site. My 20l drum is hemmed in by the lathe and parts washer so I cant see whats written on it but I doubt it will have that info anyway. I've never seen an oil container with any genuinely detailed info on it. Ciao