Lucky Phil

How did you measure the thickness of the friction plate. The difference in thickness between a new plate and a worn out plate is quite small, maybe less than 1mm. These clutches are known for their high wear rate on the earlier friction plate versions. Ciao

That is the outcome I would expect with the different rods. What you felt with the stock rod is the rubber bushes flexing and resisting the movement of the arm. Noticeable in this test but in real world riding I couldn't feel the difference in suspension action between the std and Rossopuro. Such is the case with many mechanical things, what the theory and bench testing exhibits isn't necessarily a significant factor in the riding. A little like the Guzzi engine torque reaction. At standstill its noticeable but riding its not noticeable or an issue. Ciao

There should be no FREE axial or lateral movement in the reaction rod. The pinion bearing will have a little radial movement, Ciao

The rubber coupling will be torn from fatigue or maybe perished if its been subjected to a hi ozone environment and therefore have play. Ciao

Some info on maintenance free rod ends. http://www.skf.com/au/products/bearings-units-housings/spherical-plain-bearings-bushings-rod-ends/maintenance-free-rod-ends/index.html Ciao

You can get rod ends with composite bearing material that don't require lube. As the std Rossopuro ones fitted to my bike and the std gearshift linkage rod ends fitted to the V11. Ciao

As I mentioned I couldn't feel any difference in suspension performance but then again I didn't do a " back to back" blind test and my bike has an all singing and dancing Wilbers rear shock. The theory says the rod and bearings should have less impact on suspension movement and that may be the case. As for the practicality well rod end bearings are fairly inexpensive as is a piece of aluminium rod of the required length. Having a lather at home i think I could machine up a rod in about 15 minutes, 25 if I wanted it to look fancy and wasted down. So if you have a local machine shop around, count on an hours labor, say what, $60, a piece of stock at $10 and a pair of rod ends at maybe $35 for 2. So around $100 all up...cheap. Then you have something that is lighter, looks better is easier to service and if you choose the right rod ends, nil lubricating. Is there really a decision here when the original one comes to the end of its life? Ciao

Why would you mess about with all of this when you can run a simple cheap and light rod with rose joints at each end? Ciao

I've had both types ( std and Rossopuro) fitted to my V11 and I can feel zero difference in the way the suspension works and the level of vibration or shock transmitted. Ciao

Yes the same. As I pointed out in another thread it seems, no cushioning is necessary. The original design is what it is because its cheap to make, less machining. One machining operation and press fit some bushes. Cheap and cheerful. It has to be a hydrolastic bush only because its bolted up tight. The bush is there to allow the rear suspension to work not for shock absorption. A rod ended torque arm has zero end or side float and the anchor points at both the frame and Bevel box are cruise liner dimensions. So they are rugged. In case nobody has noticed Guzzi don't just over engineer everything they over engineer it then add some. That's why they weigh a ton. Ciao

Wow, did I really resurrect this thread! Don't know how that happened. Ciao

Looks like you need the 5001230 at HMB Guzzi (series1 gasket) but check the photo of the series 2 as well. One of the holes is bigger on the series 2. http://hmb-guzzi.de/Timing-cover-gasket-metal-newer-Big-Twins-1st-series Ciao

there would be NO give whatsoever in the rod. So what, give is not required with spherical bearings. The only reason the rod and spherical bearing solution is not used in the first place is a cost of manufacture and maintenance one. The Rossopuro unit works well, looks good and bearings are cheap and easy to replace when need arises. Ciao

Of course you can. Thats what my bike has effectively in the form of a Rossopuro unit. Ciao

If you are going to use a gasket you shouldn't be using anything on the gasket, that's what gaskets are for sealing between 2 faces. Coating gaskets with any form of sealant stops the gasket Keying to the sealing face. As I said in a previous post use the later metal composite gasket ....without sealant! They are far superior and wont lose sections. They are also coated with a pressure sensitive coating as well that forms the seal. Ciao

Why would you want a larger oil cooler? is there some empirical evidence one is needed? or is it the " I just need to change something" deal. Ciao

Did you use one of the later metal composite gaskets? will prevent this happening again. Ciao

You can try by removing the rubber plug on the right side of the engine, sticking in a really large flat screwdriver between the teeth and the housing, thus locking the flywheel against the housing. I managed to undo mine the other day, without any visible damage. Just beware, this is not an official procedure. May backfire! Yes and don't forget to wear your blue and white striped butchers apron while your doing it. Ciao

Yea both the same size and type. Check the bearing spacer length. Ciao

Just replaced mine after brake side bearing failure, cause......a too short by 0.5mm spacer. Rectified that so expect decent bearing life now. Ciao

My selector mechanism rework and and shift lever rod arm extension have been a revelation with regards to shifting on my bike. Shifting is Japanese bike standard now. Ciao

You wouldn't want to see any more than 14.5 volts if you are running and AGM battery or you will cook it. Ciao

Noticed the rear wheel disk side wheel bearing was totally shagged. Had to resort to the old bead of weld around the inside of the outer race to get it out. The spacer is .5mm too short which has caused the premature failure. Bonded an appropriate thickness shim to the stock spacer, so that issue is solved. Ciao

I rode mine again today and can report that after around a thousand klms my gear selector rework and shift lever extension have been a great success. The V11 shifts like a Ducati or dare I say close to a Japanese bike now. No more missed shifts or lever tapping you on the toe occasionally. As good as you can ever expect it to be I'd say. Ciao

I've had a later model 5.5" rear rim fitted to my 2000 V11 sport for 4 years. But then again you probably don't want an opinion of its performance and effect from a troll. LOL Ciao