Lucky Phil

Hey Gritman are those the standard 2 valve headers and exhaust on the 4 valve engine? Ciao

Using a grinding head,cut through the inner ring it'll fall apart relatively easyI use a wooden dowel the size of the bearing to drive it in, about a half dollar invested for both As others have said the proper tool is best but I've heard that using a Rawl bolt to grip the inner race and then hitting it from the other side also works and is cheaper !! You know thats not a bad idea Ciao

Thanks Gritman Ciao

Hey Gritman can you tell me what paint is used on the cases and gearbox and what the colour is? Ciao

what a load a cods wallop man, why you believe such crap I dont know... heres a little info reguarding that race, the Britten was and is a farking fast machine that handled briliantly "Read the book... it's not what it looks like. Stroud had been asked to make it look good so backed right off out of sight of the stands. Louie apparently had no idea what was going on.... Tim Hanna quotes Stroud as saying Cathcart was trying to promote the class and asked if he'd make a race of it. Stroud agreed. Page 421 for your ref" Spoken like a true Kiwi,eh Ciao

I have a full spec Wilbers shock ( high and low speed compression adj and rebound with remote preload adjuster) fitted to my V11 bought here in Aus for if I recall about $1300. I have Ohlins fitted to my other Ducati's (1198, ST2, 1000ss) and the Wilbers is a least as good in quality. It was a bespoke unit made for my weight and riding. Well worth the money. Ciao

This was posted on another Guzzi site a few weeks ago. Paul Lewis was a seriously good rider but at the same time although I love the Britten and have enormous respect for the man that conceived it the truth is it was grossly overrated as a race bike. It lacked development and had a major design flaw in that it was WAY to tall to ever handle any good. It doesnt wheelie everywhere because of the power it because the C of G is so high. I think from memory the last time I say it race at Phillip Island about 15 years ago it was turning 1.42 second laps.About as fast as a good 600 super sport bike at the time. Interesting video though. Ciao

You are reading "bulk" oil temp. It has little relation to local oil temp at specific engine locations such as the cylinder heads around the exhaust port area or big end pin. So bulk oil temp may be low (and 80 deg C is to low which is why you have Mayo present) but spot temp at specific locations may be high. Bulk oil temp should regularly go above 100deg C to evaporate off the water that accumulates as a byproduct of combustion especially when the engine is in the warm up cycle. People that worry about bulk oil temps of 100 to 110 dec c on occasion are worrying about nothing esp if using a group 4 synthetic oil. You need to quantify the "overheating". I suggest a cylinder head temp gauge with the sensor under the spark plug and get some data. Ciao

Yep.....those blade connectors arn't the best solution for that application. Bullet type are superior. Ciao

How do you figure the fueling is leaner in cold temps? My Sport drops fuel economy in cold temps about 10%. Seems like denser air would support more fuel? Because he's thinking of it like a carbed engine. Lower OAT = leaner mixture. hasn't figured the temp and pressure compensation trim tables into the equation. Ciao

The fuel ratio should be "fairly" stable no matter what the temp, that's why the ecu has an engine temp probe. If anything it should be less likely to ping in cold conditions. Ciao

Fuel pressure is good.Check it again after some running.Pumps sometimes give trouble when hot. Have you checked the tank vent? Ciao

After the filter it doesnt matter which way the fuel flows through the injector loop. Ciao

Its called clutch slip.Will be worse when accelerating hard in the upper gears,4th,5th. Ciao

So everybodys going for the complex stuff first. After 10 miles the ecu should have moved off the enrichening map and then the problem starts. First place to start is the fuel filter,then ensure fuel pressure is OK. Ciao Fuel filter was changed when I picked up the bike. Shouldn't the enrichening map be bypassed with the PC3 installed? Maybe the fuel or air vent lines are crossed? I'll have to check fuel pressure as well. Thanks for the info! Ken Enrichening map wont be bypassed with the PC3. Stick to the basic stuff. If you are 100% sure on the fuel filter then fine but with any FI engine that suddenly starts to exhibit issues the FIRST thing to check is fuel pressure. Its as basic as going for the plugs and leads first when you have ignition problems.most likley to cause low fuel px in order are Filter,pump,regulator. Check the fuel pump inlet as well for a kinked hose.Not a big fan of that solinoid fuel tap either. Might be worth looking at the crank sensor as well. Ciao

So everybodys going for the complex stuff first. After 10 miles the ecu should have moved off the enrichening map and then the problem starts. First place to start is the fuel filter,then ensure fuel pressure is OK. Ciao

It would but you wouldnt have the 6 speed box. Ciao

Ok Gritman thanks for the info on the "A" frame.forgot about the offset but it cost me little so I guess its back on ebay and I'll mod the original regulator bracket as well. I'll be using the 15m as i have already bought one off Cliff. I have all the parts for a rebuild to the cylinder heads. Ram clutch freshly replated cylinders,new pistons,Joe Caruso oil pump and cam drive gears and German oil pump.The heads are really where all the expense is and I'm trying to convert the lifters and rocker to the later type with mini pushrods. Its taking a while. Yours will probably be done before mine so keep the info coming. Ciao

This is exactly the same project I'm doing now. I haven't started the swap yet as I'm in the middle of rebuilding the engine. I managed to buy a V10 front subframe just in case there was a clearance issue and I also have a Myecu waiting to go on. Cliff Jefferies reccons the std V11 map is a good place to start with the V10 motor. The only other real task I can see is you have to raise the front tank mount about 30mm which means some sort of adapter or mod to the frame mount. I dont want this new mount to be a permanent mod as I would still like the option of returning the bike to std if I so desire. I am also going to fit the later internal pump tank as well. Keep the posts and photos coming. Ciao

Torched tyre! playing on the track?......my tyres look worse than that after the post delivery ride home from the dealer. Ciao And here I was about to comment on a nicely used tire and a Willie War breaks out,... Oh the shame ,the shame,..... Well if you have a little willie I guess it is a shame. As for nicely used.....it still has chicken strips. Ciao

Torched tyre! playing on the track?......my tyres look worse than that after the post delivery ride home from the dealer. Ciao

Well, yes,they would be, since a slight improvement to the rod ratio isn't going to affect the valve or ignition timing; this isn't a 2smoke, after all! Well if you want to be really picky about it then Rod ratio will have a slight effect on what the ignition timing profile is. Rod ratio has an impact on the pistons "dwell time" at TDC and therefore the ignition curve required. Ciao

Really.....I'd be concerned if the bulk oil temp was regularly "below" 100deg C. It needs to be around 100C to burn off water vapor,unburned fuel etc and keep oil dilution at a minimum. As for the glowing headers as you describe...I wouldn't worry about it.Thin walled headers,dark night etc etc.My 1198s rear header also glow bright red at times even in the shed under lights. Ciao

Great to live close to the ocean but the reality is its hard on everything, bikes,cars,homes,and electronic equipment. The more the breeze blows off the water the worse it is. If you get regular sea mists then forget trying to keep anything long term especially electronic stuff. AS for the Guzzi it will suffer more than most bikes. The finish isn't that durable on them to start with but living near the sea will kill one unless you can hermetically seal the thing between rides. Ciao

Just pull the caliper off the mount and with the old pads in place use a big screwdriver between the pads to lever the pistons all the way back into the caliper. Just make sure the oil reservoir isn't totally full or the pistons wont go all the way back in.You may have to remove a little oil from the reservoir. Fit the new pads and refit the caliper and pump the brakes. Shouldn't take more than about 15 min. I wouldn't be to concerned about the uneven pad wear unless the side with the remaining material wont go back into the caliper and is seized. While you have the caliper off it would be a good time to replace the fluid as well.Just crack off the bleeder and nip it up again BEFORE you loosen the caliper fit the new pads put something about 6 mm thick between the pads and hold the bleeder with a tube on it upright and bleed until fresh fluid comes out. The real question is why you need to replace the rear pads in the first place. Mine never wear out as I only use the rear brake to hold the bike on a hill at the stop lights and sometimes to help it hold a line mid corner. Have never changed out a set of worn rear pads in 40 years of riding. Ciao